Did somebody say battery relo? : )

Yeah, I'm kinda proud of it, bein' that I MAKE those kits.

 

I may be interested in that if I'm buying directly from you and not a shop

 

well, you're kinda buying from Rennline, not me personally. I'm the guy who cuts out all the parts on the waterjet at Rennline.

Link in sig.

Putting aside the fact that I'm working for the company, I'll tell you that these are really top notch battery hold downs. If they were crap, I def. wouldn't be talking about them, especially not linked to my personal screenname.

CNC cut aluminum, machined Rennline logo, all anodized. Designed for Odyssey batteries, but should work with any similarly sized ones. The power cutoff I have isn't necessary, but still good insurance in case theres a problem, and its much easier to flip a switch than to screw around unhooking the ground if you ever end up doing any electrical work to the car.

I'm running the Odyssey 925 battery, 23lbs. Its a good size for street use. You can leave your radio on for a while, or a map light or something, and you're not going to drain your battery doing it. I regularly let my radio cycle to its auto timed 60 minute shutoff w/o problems.

If you want a smaller/lighter battery, theres the 680, but it's good for starting the car, and not much more. Buddy runs one in his rabbit. It starts hard to begin with, and then the other day he left his taillights on for about 5 minutes, and with the combination of hard starting and leaving lights on, he didn't quite have enough to get it started.

 

Rear seat delete?!

We need pictures!

 

ok... thread revival seeing this is the closest thing when i search far and wide


i've removed the tail lights, i've removed the wheels and splashguards...

idk how the hell you can remove the torx bolts next to the tail lights, or the 10mm bolts under the splash guards that hold the bumper to the fender. they are stripped i think, they just keep spinning and spinning with no end

i want that damn 35lb weight removed.

 

Thread revival x2...

Taifighter, could you possibly do a little writeup on the seat delete cover?
Maybe just the template?

pls...?

 

i think he already has a thread on his diy. either that or he'll pm the info like he did me.

i think the thread might be on audifreaks.

i got the counterweight off, i ended up leaving the 10mm bolt holding the left side of the bumper in there and i had a friend hold the bumper back as i removed the crashbar and counterweight.

after driving around with a 50lb jack, spare tire, and a full hatch, with the removal of all that stuff and the 35lb weight... it definitely was noticeable in acceleration.

still up for ideas on how to remove that damn 2nd 10mm bolt. it's the one closer the to tire (deeper into the crevice behind the tail lights)

 

You need to wedge something behind the screw as you turn it. A panel popper or a kitchen spoon should work.

 

sounds like you broke something off the backside since mine came off with ease

 

Removed the counterweight. It was big and heavy (35lbs). Also removed it's mounting brackets another 3lbs. Removed the crash bar, it's brackets, and the spare tire from the back. In the front of my TT, I took off the broken headlight washers, the hoses, and the crash bar with brackets. The car is very well thought out and simple to work on. Let me say there is a very noticable difference! The car was quick before..... Faster now.
Outstanding results for no investment. Downside one is the car sits about about 2-3mm higher. Downside two is safety. Not recommended for poor drivers or raging alcoholics.