Thinking about buying TT..need help
#1
07-03-2010, 11:42 PM
Thinking about buying TT..need help
Hi guys,
I'm currently looking at an 01 TT. You can see it here: http://www.cityauto.com/Vehicle/Stock/256171
I have never owned an Audi and am wondering what kind of defects should I be looking for in this car? I drove it today, and it seems to run well; but of course it's impossible to tell everything on a 10 minute test drive.
I can tell the wheels aren't stock, and it also has a K&N intake on the engine. The real mystery to me is the logo on the steering wheel. The other TT on the lot doesn't have that logo, and I can't make out what it is really with it being half smudged away.
Appreciate any advice you can give, thanks guys!
I'm currently looking at an 01 TT. You can see it here: http://www.cityauto.com/Vehicle/Stock/256171
I have never owned an Audi and am wondering what kind of defects should I be looking for in this car? I drove it today, and it seems to run well; but of course it's impossible to tell everything on a 10 minute test drive.
I can tell the wheels aren't stock, and it also has a K&N intake on the engine. The real mystery to me is the logo on the steering wheel. The other TT on the lot doesn't have that logo, and I can't make out what it is really with it being half smudged away.
Appreciate any advice you can give, thanks guys!
#2
07-05-2010, 01:48 PM
get a Carfax.........
check maintenence records for;
Haldex service every 20-30K miles
Oil/filter service regularly.
Trans seviced w/ VAG oils only
Diff service " " " "
timing belt /water pump/t.b. tensioner shud have been done.
coil packs (4) should have been done and spark plugs newed
check dash cluster for bad pixels..(possibly has been changed 2002,3) will show in Carfax
glove box opens and closes easily
check undertrays front and two rear make sure they are on.
shoks and struts should prolly b on this list with that milage. $600 + all around.
all of the above except fluids are high buck and thing that do go wrong. Check top carefully in the rear areas for tears etc.
check maintenence records for;
Haldex service every 20-30K miles
Oil/filter service regularly.
Trans seviced w/ VAG oils only
Diff service " " " "
timing belt /water pump/t.b. tensioner shud have been done.
coil packs (4) should have been done and spark plugs newed
check dash cluster for bad pixels..(possibly has been changed 2002,3) will show in Carfax
glove box opens and closes easily
check undertrays front and two rear make sure they are on.
shoks and struts should prolly b on this list with that milage. $600 + all around.
all of the above except fluids are high buck and thing that do go wrong. Check top carefully in the rear areas for tears etc.
#3
07-05-2010, 02:50 PM
the NUMBER ONE THING you need to ask about (aside from accident history) is if/when the Timing belt was changed last, and whether or not they replaced the water pump impellar with a metal impellar when they did it. The TT has a very very bad history with defective Timing Belts. The OEM Water Pump has a plastic impellar on it and it cracks easily, the timing belt comes off, and you end up having to spend thousands of daollars to repair the head and get new rods, pins, etc. The timing belt needs to be change before 60k miles at the ABSOLUTE latest or else you're taking on an extreme risk.
Since this particular TT has 102k miles on it, you need to check when the timing belt was changed... and I would have the dealer get it changed again if its been more than 20k miles since change. Also, make sure to have a dealer look at the Haldex (Haldex is the new for the Quattro system controller). These often **** out and dealers will try to sell the car without replacing it because the part is $600+ and labor is another $300 I believe. While they're down there, have them change the Haldex oil and the Differential fluid (whatever fluid it is) at the same time; Haldex fluid can be expensive.
Also... check the Coolant resevoir under the hood and verify that the coolant thats in it is a cloudy Pink color. Our cars use a lifetime coolant (G12) that never needs to be replaced, but it shouldn't have regular old green anti-freeze/coolant in it; thats a sign that bad maintenance has been done.
When you lift the hood, look at the front strut top caps. If the caps are raised or separated from the top of the Strut, its a bad sign and usually means your strut bearings are blown out or struts are bad.
under the hood, look at all the vacuum hoses (they are the 3mm inside diameter hoses... about ¼-½" thick hose) in the engine bay... fel the hoses and make sure they arent completely dry-rotted; if they are, have the dealer replace them. When they dry-rot, you have a boost leak... which means the car "no go fast" lol
Also, I'll echo what quaTTrophobia said above about the Dash Cluster. the only other real big defect the TT has is the Dash cluster, specifically... the LCD display in the center of the cluster. These go bad a lot... if it has more than one dead line thru the LCD, DEFINITELY have them replace it. this is a part that you dont wanna have to track down and buy yourself. The cluster is a PITA (Pain in The ***) because the ECU and cluster and ignition I think... are all a matched set... and a PITA to install.
Since this particular TT has 102k miles on it, you need to check when the timing belt was changed... and I would have the dealer get it changed again if its been more than 20k miles since change. Also, make sure to have a dealer look at the Haldex (Haldex is the new for the Quattro system controller). These often **** out and dealers will try to sell the car without replacing it because the part is $600+ and labor is another $300 I believe. While they're down there, have them change the Haldex oil and the Differential fluid (whatever fluid it is) at the same time; Haldex fluid can be expensive.
Also... check the Coolant resevoir under the hood and verify that the coolant thats in it is a cloudy Pink color. Our cars use a lifetime coolant (G12) that never needs to be replaced, but it shouldn't have regular old green anti-freeze/coolant in it; thats a sign that bad maintenance has been done.
When you lift the hood, look at the front strut top caps. If the caps are raised or separated from the top of the Strut, its a bad sign and usually means your strut bearings are blown out or struts are bad.
under the hood, look at all the vacuum hoses (they are the 3mm inside diameter hoses... about ¼-½" thick hose) in the engine bay... fel the hoses and make sure they arent completely dry-rotted; if they are, have the dealer replace them. When they dry-rot, you have a boost leak... which means the car "no go fast" lol
Also, I'll echo what quaTTrophobia said above about the Dash Cluster. the only other real big defect the TT has is the Dash cluster, specifically... the LCD display in the center of the cluster. These go bad a lot... if it has more than one dead line thru the LCD, DEFINITELY have them replace it. this is a part that you dont wanna have to track down and buy yourself. The cluster is a PITA (Pain in The ***) because the ECU and cluster and ignition I think... are all a matched set... and a PITA to install.
#4
07-05-2010, 02:55 PM
Also...
for good TT Tech Info... Check out AudiFreaks; One of the most knowledgeable TT Guys on here created his own Audi forum there a year ago and most of the really experienced TT enthusiasts from here went over there. Some of us still troll this one too... but over there all the experienced guys are on every day. and although its a full-on audi forum with sections for all models... it was created by and populated by nearly all TT guys... so its a great resource for TT info.
just an FYI
I wouldn't delete this one... but I'd definitely add audiFreaks to your favorites.
for good TT Tech Info... Check out AudiFreaks; One of the most knowledgeable TT Guys on here created his own Audi forum there a year ago and most of the really experienced TT enthusiasts from here went over there. Some of us still troll this one too... but over there all the experienced guys are on every day. and although its a full-on audi forum with sections for all models... it was created by and populated by nearly all TT guys... so its a great resource for TT info.
just an FYI
I wouldn't delete this one... but I'd definitely add audiFreaks to your favorites.
#5
07-06-2010, 12:51 AM
Thanks for the advice guys.
I took the TT to a local Audi/VW shop here in Memphis and had it looked over on a lift, and also had them check the ECU etc. Everything checked out except for a small valve cover gasket leak and the rotors, which will need to be replaced soon.
It did have a new timing belt on it, which they said was in good shape. The plastic dipstick tube broke when I was checking the oil, so I'm going to have the dealership replace that.
Also, it has had the LCD replaced. It seems to be in overall good order. Looking forward to a change of pace from the Mustang..still can't figure out what that little logo is on the bottom of the steering wheel.
I took the TT to a local Audi/VW shop here in Memphis and had it looked over on a lift, and also had them check the ECU etc. Everything checked out except for a small valve cover gasket leak and the rotors, which will need to be replaced soon.
It did have a new timing belt on it, which they said was in good shape. The plastic dipstick tube broke when I was checking the oil, so I'm going to have the dealership replace that.
Also, it has had the LCD replaced. It seems to be in overall good order. Looking forward to a change of pace from the Mustang..still can't figure out what that little logo is on the bottom of the steering wheel.
#7
07-11-2010, 08:40 AM
The logo is the audi sport logo, not S-line. standard on 2000-2001 TTs. Dropped for 2002+ when audi switched to a slightly smaller and thicker rimmed wheel.
Search ebay for used wheels and you may find a better picture.
http://images53.fotki.com/v444/photo...eat2011-vi.jpg
EDIT: Here's a close up and a place where you can get a replacement...should be avail thru local dealer too.
http://www.europaparts.com/catalogse...ng+wheel+badge
Search ebay for used wheels and you may find a better picture.
http://images53.fotki.com/v444/photo...eat2011-vi.jpg
EDIT: Here's a close up and a place where you can get a replacement...should be avail thru local dealer too.
http://www.europaparts.com/catalogse...ng+wheel+badge
Last edited by TTQ2K2; 07-11-2010 at 08:44 AM.
#9
07-13-2010, 09:22 PM
Also thinking about buying a TT Roadster (here in NJ) ...
This thread alone is proving invaluable on what to ask for when looking at a used TT Roadster ...
My questions are basically ones of price and model year, and mileage ... trying to keep on a limited budget and was wondering which model years tend to be less problematic than others, sort of a "consumer reports" type question ... and which used years are preferred ... not looking for something as new as an 2008 for example, can't afford that ...
Currently have my eye on a 2003 1.8L I-4 automatic trans with 105K miles. I haven't driven or seen the car yet but dealer is asking 11K ... that's more than my modest budget (I know I am looking at higher mileage models on my budget) and was wondering in general what anyone thinks about a good offer ...
Thanks in advance ... for starters.
This thread alone is proving invaluable on what to ask for when looking at a used TT Roadster ...
My questions are basically ones of price and model year, and mileage ... trying to keep on a limited budget and was wondering which model years tend to be less problematic than others, sort of a "consumer reports" type question ... and which used years are preferred ... not looking for something as new as an 2008 for example, can't afford that ...
Currently have my eye on a 2003 1.8L I-4 automatic trans with 105K miles. I haven't driven or seen the car yet but dealer is asking 11K ... that's more than my modest budget (I know I am looking at higher mileage models on my budget) and was wondering in general what anyone thinks about a good offer ...
Thanks in advance ... for starters.
#10
07-14-2010, 10:11 AM
The DSG trans takes part of the fun out of driving..........if there is a failure or major trans work it will B very expensive.
Rag tops (as was said in another post here) do wear especially below the rear windo.
A short answer to your post might be to carefully look at the maintenence record from the previous owner. At 100 k it should be on the second belt, new coil paks, cv boots changed, 2nd set of shocks, cluster waranteed or clean numbers, all fluids changed, after run coolant pump replaced (AMU motors), pcv valve and hoses changed, at least the second battery, elect. cooling fans seqencing properly, and a good tire wear pattern.
Rag tops (as was said in another post here) do wear especially below the rear windo.
A short answer to your post might be to carefully look at the maintenence record from the previous owner. At 100 k it should be on the second belt, new coil paks, cv boots changed, 2nd set of shocks, cluster waranteed or clean numbers, all fluids changed, after run coolant pump replaced (AMU motors), pcv valve and hoses changed, at least the second battery, elect. cooling fans seqencing properly, and a good tire wear pattern.