1998 2.8 B5 Camshaft Tensioner
#1
1998 2.8 B5 Camshaft Tensioner
I have all the DIYs, my question being, no one seems to mention if you can just take the Camshafts OUT completely or should I leave them in? Some people say yes, others say NO WAY! Done TB jobs etc, but I have NEVER pulled the cams out, any suggestions, 2 cents would be welcome for doing either side. And any suggestions on what else to replace/check while I'm doing both these tensioners (apart cam seals)??
IF I do want to pull them out, is there a specific way to do it correctly? On the driver's side, should I just use the vice grips to hold the timing chain on (as mentioned in the DIY), since this is my 2nd TB in less than 8000k (had to do with my heater core issues over the years), don't want to pull everything off again, but, if necessary, I will.
I'm currently doing the passenger side tensioner, but will do the driver's side after I get all the parts.
Codes are all on the 1-2-3 side, so that's where I'm starting, idles like a tractor, but when it gets up to 1200rpm, runs fine, but since I have it all torn down, might as well do both sides...it's my project Audi with 280k+ miles on it, so it's a good hobby project. TB hasn't jumped (it was done less than 5000 miles ago), so I'm assuming with the codes it's the tensioner...but looking at it, doesn't LOOK faulty (hahahahah), actually looks damn good for so many miles....but haven't pulled it out yet...
And YES, I'm at TDC...
Thanks,
Marky
IF I do want to pull them out, is there a specific way to do it correctly? On the driver's side, should I just use the vice grips to hold the timing chain on (as mentioned in the DIY), since this is my 2nd TB in less than 8000k (had to do with my heater core issues over the years), don't want to pull everything off again, but, if necessary, I will.
I'm currently doing the passenger side tensioner, but will do the driver's side after I get all the parts.
Codes are all on the 1-2-3 side, so that's where I'm starting, idles like a tractor, but when it gets up to 1200rpm, runs fine, but since I have it all torn down, might as well do both sides...it's my project Audi with 280k+ miles on it, so it's a good hobby project. TB hasn't jumped (it was done less than 5000 miles ago), so I'm assuming with the codes it's the tensioner...but looking at it, doesn't LOOK faulty (hahahahah), actually looks damn good for so many miles....but haven't pulled it out yet...
And YES, I'm at TDC...
Thanks,
Marky
#2
Well I remember when I replaced the half moon seals and the tensioner gaskets, I made sure there was 16 links (if I am correct) between both cam sprockets.. put two zip-ties in those links so they couldn't shift by some chance, loosened the bolts on the bearing caps, and simply lifted the cam enough that I could get the new seals in their correct positions.
Now.. if you are going to replace/remove the tensioner completely... I would mark every bearing cap so you know its correct position, same with the lifters. When you reassemble you need them in their original positions. Loosen the bolts on bearing caps 1,3,5 and 7 first. Then you do the same for caps 2 and 4. You then lift both cams out with the chain and tensioner as one assembly.
I have the illustration in my Haynes manual and can post them for you.
All I need is for someone to explain to me how to resize the pictures or get them in a format that I can post them on this forum.
I've tried it before and my pics are always too big so If someone enlightens me... I will scan the couple pages that show the procedure and post it for you.
Now.. if you are going to replace/remove the tensioner completely... I would mark every bearing cap so you know its correct position, same with the lifters. When you reassemble you need them in their original positions. Loosen the bolts on bearing caps 1,3,5 and 7 first. Then you do the same for caps 2 and 4. You then lift both cams out with the chain and tensioner as one assembly.
I have the illustration in my Haynes manual and can post them for you.
All I need is for someone to explain to me how to resize the pictures or get them in a format that I can post them on this forum.
I've tried it before and my pics are always too big so If someone enlightens me... I will scan the couple pages that show the procedure and post it for you.
#3
thanks, I would appreciate it if you could do that. If you are scanning and saving as a PDF, I always use Compress PDF ? Reduce your PDF Online for Free, it shrinks it down and quality is perfect...and it's free.....
If you are scanning pictures, just change the resolution on your scanner before you scan them to a lower one, like 300dpi or less, and it should then work fine.
You can probably find a free photo shrinking site as well, but, on a camera, you can turn down the dpi (resolution) as well to make them less of a size. I'm fortunate to have photoshop, so I usually use that to change the resolution while saving the picture to a smaller size.
You could always email them to me, I can PM you my email address if that works easier for you.
Currently, the links are at 16, I was going to mark them with whiteout to make sure anyhow, but zip ties sound better....as far as the caps, noted. I've just heard both sides, DONT take them out, or it's no problem to take them out, so I just want to make sure if I do take them out, I do it correctly to put them back correctly. Taking them out, just seems easier to work on the tensioner and the seal, AS LONG as putting them back correctly is painless as well.
If you are scanning pictures, just change the resolution on your scanner before you scan them to a lower one, like 300dpi or less, and it should then work fine.
You can probably find a free photo shrinking site as well, but, on a camera, you can turn down the dpi (resolution) as well to make them less of a size. I'm fortunate to have photoshop, so I usually use that to change the resolution while saving the picture to a smaller size.
You could always email them to me, I can PM you my email address if that works easier for you.
Currently, the links are at 16, I was going to mark them with whiteout to make sure anyhow, but zip ties sound better....as far as the caps, noted. I've just heard both sides, DONT take them out, or it's no problem to take them out, so I just want to make sure if I do take them out, I do it correctly to put them back correctly. Taking them out, just seems easier to work on the tensioner and the seal, AS LONG as putting them back correctly is painless as well.
Well I remember when I replaced the half moon seals and the tensioner gaskets, I made sure there was 16 links (if I am correct) between both cam sprockets.. put two zip-ties in those links so they couldn't shift by some chance, loosened the bolts on the bearing caps, and simply lifted the cam enough that I could get the new seals in their correct positions.
Now.. if you are going to replace/remove the tensioner completely... I would mark every bearing cap so you know its correct position, same with the lifters. When you reassemble you need them in their original positions. Loosen the bolts on bearing caps 1,3,5 and 7 first. Then you do the same for caps 2 and 4. You then lift both cams out with the chain and tensioner as one assembly.
I have the illustration in my Haynes manual and can post them for you.
All I need is for someone to explain to me how to resize the pictures or get them in a format that I can post them on this forum.
I've tried it before and my pics are always too big so If someone enlightens me... I will scan the couple pages that show the procedure and post it for you.
Now.. if you are going to replace/remove the tensioner completely... I would mark every bearing cap so you know its correct position, same with the lifters. When you reassemble you need them in their original positions. Loosen the bolts on bearing caps 1,3,5 and 7 first. Then you do the same for caps 2 and 4. You then lift both cams out with the chain and tensioner as one assembly.
I have the illustration in my Haynes manual and can post them for you.
All I need is for someone to explain to me how to resize the pictures or get them in a format that I can post them on this forum.
I've tried it before and my pics are always too big so If someone enlightens me... I will scan the couple pages that show the procedure and post it for you.
#5
Just an update. Want to thank Kamil for his help and his diagrams! Is going to help out a lot.
Also wanted to share something I found kind of funny. I just skimmed this DIY from AUTOZONE for the Camshaft job for AUDI's??? YES, Autozone??? Can you believe it? It's actually quite accurate and informative...if anyone needs it, here's a link to it...
| Repair Guides | Engine Mechanical Components | Camshaft, Bearings & Lifters 1 | AutoZone.com
Thanks again guys!
Marc
Also wanted to share something I found kind of funny. I just skimmed this DIY from AUTOZONE for the Camshaft job for AUDI's??? YES, Autozone??? Can you believe it? It's actually quite accurate and informative...if anyone needs it, here's a link to it...
| Repair Guides | Engine Mechanical Components | Camshaft, Bearings & Lifters 1 | AutoZone.com
Thanks again guys!
Marc
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