OK first off the build date is from 98. I bought it a few weeks ago knowing it didn't run. When I got it home I noticed that there was no spark. I replaced the other with one that came with the car. I cranked and cranked it to try to generate codes and it started. I drove it for 2 miles with a bit of top end chatter. A few days later I had a friend come over to listen to the noise and it wouldn't start again which ended in no spark once more. I managed to get spark back somehow and started multiple times so i assumed it was fixed. The first thing I decided to do was an oil change with Lucas. I drove it into the garage changed the oil and now I can't get spark again. This time I attempted to hunt down the cause I pulled the spark plugs and noticed how stupid who ever changed them last was. They were tapped to .045 so I replaced them with Platinum plugs gapped at .032. I checked the icm and it seemed to be OK but just for the sake of it I replaced it just to see if it was. I tried a few others as well. I have tried a huco, bosh, and finally another hatachi. No change. I have vag com lite and have no codes. The spark plugs get 12v and ground but I don't know about ground pluses I haven't figured out if I'm measuring them correctly. I put positive lead of the multimeter on the left most pin of the spark plug wire and negative lead on the negative of the battery. Didn't get anything. I checked the fuses and they are all fine. Previous owner said he replaced cam and crank. I do have fuel and have the fuel pump relay out so I don't soak the plugs. I checked all over the internet and still have not found a solution. Sorry about any typos this fourm is not working well with my phone. Please help me out.

 

I've heard and seen what you are describing on other type of vehicles.

Disty could be one issue
Crankshaft position another option
Or a bad common ground.
God forbid you have a blown head gasket.

Just chucking a couple of ideas. Please post back if you find something.

 

This car doesn't have a distributer. How does a blown head gasket effect spark? When I had it running the temps didn't go above half way but I didn't let it run for too long due to the chatter. Before I bought the car it had been sitting for around a year. The chatter did quiet down some before I changed the oil I think it was due to the lack of oil in the top end since it sat. Im going to see if I can test the crank, can, and cts with vag. If anyone knows where the 10 mm brown/yellow on the valve cover comes from that could help. I did run a jumper from it to the negative battery terminal. No change. On the five pin plug to icm I'm getting .12v with key on and .19 while cranking to pins 1,2,4 and 5.

 

OK found a post on live viewing with vag com on ross-tech's website . My window didn't look like their picture but I assume its due to the version differences. My cable came with a disc I believe its ver 409. So I went into measuring blocks under the engine listing and viewed 01 and 03, I believe, both had rpm. The throttle angle sensor read fine in live time under block 3. so I went a head and cranked it and didn't get any reading for rpms. I read somewhere that it doesn't generate a signal while under running load. Does anyone know for sure or did i test it wrong? Im still learning vag com. I'm working on getting the old cps out to see what the stock does. I can't seem to find the 10 mm bolt I assume it goes into the metal ring that is part of the cps. It points towards the oil filter but I can only feel an indent in the center of that bit that sticks out. It kinda feels like the bolts that hold down the coil packs but smaller. Tomorrow I'm going to see if I can get my phone up there for a video to see what's going on maybe nothing is holding it down I doubt that because I yanked it hard and it didnt move. If anyone knows any answers to my problem or has any ideas let me know. Thank you.

 

OK so I switched out the crank sensor/speed sensor and checked with vag it read it great. It started tight up as well. So in short if you have no spark and no codes check for engine rpm while cranking if you get nothing replace the speed sensor. I still have a tick though can anyone direct me to someone showing a normal sounding 1.8t audi a4 engine? I checked youtube but there wasn't a consensus among any of the videos. I'll see if I can post a video of it running soon.

 

Nice troubleshooting vecon.

It's rare that I see/hear a video of a motor that really sounds like what's going on. You're right, the cam tensioner can make some noise when the top is dry. But I think you're past that point.

You sure the tick noise is a mechanical noise....meaning any chance it's some electrical arc noise?

 

I doubt its electrical. Everything is held down at stock locations so unless there is a very common problem I'm not aware of then I'm not sure. Its going in for inspection later today so I'll see what they say. Just for reference the bolt that held down the crank/speed sensor was just like the ones on the coil packs except it was a metric 8 Allen key instead of 7/3I have no idea where everyone was getting 10 mm bolt from. Maybe a 2.8.