So I bought the car, but found out it had troubles starting.
First.. five times I started it today it was fine. After that, the engine fires, goes to about 1200rpm, then straight down to 500 and dies.
Coolant temp sensor is 90*c constantly (middle of the gauge).

The oil airing from engine has a leaky tube, and the coolant temp sensor was directly beneath it. Connections were covered with oil. Wiped it, took solvant on it, wiped it again, dried it and took contact spray on the plug and the sensor connector.
Reassembled, sealed leak temporarely. No avail.

Guess I have to check OBDII codes, and possibly new coolant temp sensor? Does it make the car think it's warmer, and gives it less gass to fire on? I can get it started with pushing the petal to the medal when starting it.
The car runs fine when it's just running, and is excellent otherwise.

 

Update: Nope, no additional information. But atleast it bumps my thread.

 

So, it runs fine, more of a starting issue?

Does it have any sort of missfire, when cold or hot?

 

It runs fine as long as it's just started properly.

The problem occurs when:
The engine is hot
The engine has been turned off for 2-90 minutes

The engine will start, go right up to 1600rpm, then stall.
I have to start it 4-5 times, hold the pedal down and make it rev. Then I have to hold it up on 2000 for about 5-10 seconds before it returns to a shaky 900rpm idle speed. Is that normal idle? Seems a bit high to me, but it's a small-volume engine.. My first below 2.0l (which had 800).

There's water coming out the back of it, left it to idle for 15 minutes, and it was a small puddle there when I came out again.
Gray sediments in the water in the puddle, but I guess that's just dirt from the exhaust pipe?
How much water is it supposed to run out of there..

After the 15min of idling, I turned it off and on again repeatedly. Worked fine for about 5 times, then it started to die. Did it kinda quickly, didn't wait long at all.. so maybe I overfilled it with gas?

A guy at my department said the coldstart injector may be the culprit, but I don't know, it doesn't _always_ start bad when it's warm.. Coolant sensor does move it seems, but it gets up to 90'c quick, and it stays there pretty much no matter what I do or how I drive it.

 

Im curious about the head gasket.

 

Oh.. don't even say that
Any good test to check if head gasket is bad?

 

Check for bubbles in the coolant bottle while the engine is running. The best test is a cylinder leak-down test. You'll need a leak-down gauge set, which can usually be rented from a local parts chain.

The ECT will definitely cause starting issues. It's a relatively inexpensive sensor, if you suspect it to be an issue, replace it and see what happens. I know it's a shotgun, throw-parts-at-it diagnosis, but it's a cheap sensor that is a somewhat common issue on VW/Audi.

 

I have to rephrase my whole symptoms thing.

The car has trouble starting independent of being cold / warm. First time it usually kicks up to something that looks like a common starter-rpm, then tries to stabilize itself at 900, fails, dies. Subsequent tries gets me perhaps only 4-600rpm max, not enough for the car to start successfully. I keep trying about 7-8 times, and it revs up enough for me to give it power.
It always seem to work, and it's running reasonably stable idle when good and warm. After a 30min drive, tempgauge displayed 90*c, RPM was at 900 -/+ 5-10
It isn't much deviation, but it feels a bit rough because it has small variations. The engine sound itself is not rough at all.
By the way, the lambda ticks nice and slow when I start the car, but when I left it to idle for 20min, the lambda clicked by maybe 4 instead of the normal two-ish.. Is it because the engine is warmer?

On a side note, none of my seat warmers are working (I live in norway, I am well cold). Advice?

 

Oh - and no bubbles in coolant. Left it running when I got home, took off the expansion tank cap, looked down.. no bubbles. Left it runnign without a lid for some mins, came back, looked at it for about a minute. It had some circulation it seemed, but absolutely no bubbles whatsoever.

And my car has no A/C, but the fan makes this kind of rattling sound, especially when I turn it up high. Kinda like if you had some dry leaves down there, and blowing on them. Maybe that's exactly what it is? Likely? Where's the filter?

 

No help from here!

The problem that has occured is most likely caused by poor-grade soldering at the electronic immobilizer unit near the ignition barrel.
When problem occurs, putting the car in ignition stage II will make the immob light light up for two seconds, go away, then start to flash with 1hz interval. Car will not start.
Take it back to 0, take out key, repeat until there is no flashing. Car starts as normal.