AEB Head On AWM Block?
 

Will an AEB head bolt onto an AWM engine block? Are all the external ports and bolt holes the same on both heads?

My AWM head needs a rebuild, and I've got a line on a good used AEB head for a low price. This way I could continue to drive my A4 until the AEB head is rebuilt, and then just swap out the heads when I'm ready.

Yep. The AEB head actually flows better, so a lot of AWM guys running big ass turbos or high boost run them as an upgrade.

Will it run predictably in a mostly-stock application? I assume the improved airflow won't mess up anything with the stock ECM.

Only issue I can see is with the variable valve timing that came stock on AWM motors. I'm not sure how much of that was in the head and how much was on the block though.

From what I understand, the variable cam timing's only purpose is for emissions at start-up, is that right?

Also, I read that the cam adjuster from the AWM head can be bolted onto the AEB head...

Wish there was more info on this somewhere.

You can aboslutely run an aeb head on an 06a (awm) block. There are a couple issues. As stated before the vvt is an issue. Either use your vvt tensioner out of the awm head or you will have to use the aeb tensioner and place a resisitor in the wire that should hook up to the vvt tensioner. secondly, there is no provision for the combi valve on the aeb head which you have on the awm head. you would have to delete the whole sai system, which is ok cause its useless anyways. you will get a check engine light unless it is coded out. You would need to run the aeb intake manifold as well becuase the ports are bigger than an awm manifold. if you dont have an aeb manifold and want to use your awm one, you need a transition spacer made by 034 motorsport. lastly, you need to use 06a (awm) head bolts, not aeb bolts. you match the bolts to the block. and if you are keeping the whole pcv system, youll need to run the awm vlave cover for the extra port on it. if running a catch can setup, id still recommend using the awm valve cover for an extra breather. hope this helps. forgot to mention. you need to use the correct cam window, that little stamped metal piece bolted onto the intake cam which the cam sensor gets its signal from. youll notice the difference between the awm (vvt) one and aeb (no-vvt) cam window. Many people say you need to swap the whole cams over, but i am unaware of any differences between the two, and from what i know its best to keep the original cams in the original heads

and just so you know, that aeb head is worth about 300$.

Excellent info, thanks. And answers all my questions. I was planning to remove the EGR stuff anyways.

*DIY* - B5 1.8T Vacuum/Check Valve/SAI/PCV - Delete & Simplification

that should help you quite a bit.

Thanks! I was trying to translate the B6 DIY info for my B5, didn't realize there was already a B5-oriented writeup available. That's very useful.

2001 a4's are much closer to b6's under the hood anyways. theres so much absolute bullshit under the hood of these cars its ridiculous. i am so glad i live in a state without emissions so i can get rid of all that stuff and run without a cat. but good luck with the head swap. ill help you out if you have questions. i went through the same thing myself

no you can't run an aeb head on an awm car, so you will need to send me the aeb head and i will send you my awm head.... :D


:rolleyes:


:D

Don't mind him, he's a troll :p

Dream on :p

Hi, I have the same problem and a bit worried... I bought AEB head on my AWM block, but my old CC tensioner is junk. Can you tell which resistor to place or anyone will do the job? Will it cause check engine light?
And one more, I live in Massachusetts - emission is going to be a problem for me, how do I reprogram SAI computer?
Thank you so much!

because you have emissions in mass, you will have problems running a non-vvt cct without it coded out. vvt on our cars is mainly used for startup emissions purposes, and you won't pass. if your old cct is junk, why not buy a new vvt cct and put that in the aeb head? if you want to use your non-vvt tensioner and pass emissions, you will have to have the vvt coded out of the ecu so the computer does not check readiness. the best person to talk to about this would be the forum member called k0mpressed over on audizine. he deals with this sort of thing all the time. however, you will also have to have the secondary air injection coded out since the computer checks readiness on that as well. again, talk to k0mpressed for these issues

He wrote my tune, and coded out SAI, secondary O2, and EVAP. Very good guy, very knowledgeable. 10/10, would bang.

FYI a resistor isn't enough to get rid of VVT, I have no idea where this misconception came from. A resistor will get rid of an open circuit code, but as soon as it tries to change the cam state it'll get a camshaft over-retarded error because it sees the adjuster isn't working. So no matter what, you'll need a custom tune. Better to just buy a new tensioner.

Guys, thanks you for replies!
For VVT i am planning to use my old part from AEB head, it should fit right in and connect without any problem. To get rid of SAI i will have to use 75 Om resistor, somebody told me that this trick works. And lastly i decide not to mess up with CCT and put a new used one.
I also have heard that one need to switch over some timing belt component as well, does anybody know which one for sure?
And since I use AEB head and manifold on AMB block which head gasket should I buy? Do I need both set because of different manifold?
Thank you!

For proper VVT operation you need the tensioner and intake cam, so swap those over from your old head. Whoever told you about SAI has no idea how the diagnosis works. A resistor will do absolutely nothing apart from drawing power and heating up, there's no diagnosis for open circuit to the pump, only open circuit to the solenoid and measuring pump air flow. There might also be diagnosis for the relay, but I'm not too sure. Again, you'll need to get it coded out properly since the pump won't be flowing anything. You could resistor out the solenoid, but I don't' see the point of that because you already have a perfectly good solenoid already there.

From what it sounds like, you want to use the CCT from the AEB head when you put it all back together? If this is true, then I want to make sure you know that the AEB CCT doesn't have VVT. Only the AWM CCT has VVT, but you can install the AWM CCT in the AEB head.

What's a new used CCT?

I know I'm digging up an old ass thread, but I just finished my second AEB/AWM build and I want to clear some things up for not only myself, but for anyone else who searches for this information in the future.

Head Gasket: Which one should be used on an AEB head/AWM block engine?

VVT: Is it really just for emissions? I've heard that VVT is used to improve low end torque and maximize high end boost (might be BS, but let's clear that up if possible).

On my first build, I swapped my AWM cams and tensioner to the AEB head. This time I left everything AEB (I'll have to tune out the VVT....... if you know how, LMK. I have a laptop, VAG COM and a cable. We can do it remote).

After experiencing the two, I feel like it may be best to scrap the VVT and run with the AEB cams/tensioner since the AEB cams are bigger.

***Experts: Feel free to jump in. ;)

Interesting, I'm planning to build another AWM engine soon and I just happened to be giving this some thought recently :)

I don't think it matters since the bore size is the same, as long as the water passages all line up. Are they MLS gaskets like on TDI engines?

On other manufacturers' engines, it's to maximize low end grunt and high end rev. But on these engines, I'm pretty sure it's only for emissions purposes.

You can't tune with a VAG-COM, it won't flash the ECU. You'll need different tools for that. On my TDI-swapped B5 A4, I use an MPPS 13.02 cable to write to the EDC16 ECU. Not sure what tools are required for gas engine ECUs. It might not be that hard to flash an AEB tune to an AWM ECU given the right cable and software.

Using the matching cam hardware for the head always seems like the best idea in any case (except for the head bolts)

Let me correct a few things for you (I know more than I'm asking. I'm doing this for future searchers).


I know the AEB gasket will work. I'm not sure about the AWM though.

You're talking about VTECH (basically). That's not the same. They have different cam lobes that are engaged by an actuator at a certain RPM. That's very different than what we have.


This is not true. With VAG Com, NefMoto and the correct Dongle, you can do anything nowadays (I've done it many times).

For me: I'm curious about VVT, but I need an answer from someone who knows for sure what they're talking about (no disrespect to you) and I'd love to find someone on here that's willing to tune it out for me.


I think I agree here, but again: I'm looking for a definitive answer on the VVT issue.

No, VTECH is a brand of cheap electronics. And I'm not referring to VTEC either. I'm referring to cam phasing architectures, which adjust the timing (but not duration) of the cam by changing its angle relative to the crank. That's exactly what this system does. There's retrofit kits for GM LS-series engines that accomplish the same thing, again for low end grunt (retarded timing) and high end rev (advanced timing). But from what I can tell, the system on the 1.8T isn't used that way. The power gains from AEB to AWM were solely due to the different turbo and engine tuning, not cam phasing. You can tell using VCDS when the cam is being phased, and it doesn't happen during an acceleration run.

What you state regarding VAG-COM (actually VCDS) makes no sense. That's a dongle and software package (or just software in its basic mode). Neither one can flash an ECU, they can only adjust parameters within the existing file. Cam phasing is not one of those adjustable parameters. There's no basic settings or codings for that that I know of. That requires a complete flash, which is done with a separate dongle and software and has nothing to do with VCDS at all. If you happen to have the other dongle and software handy, then more power to you.

You are wrong in so many ways, but I'm not here to argue, so let's agree to disagree.




G/L