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before i tackle this brake job....

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  #1  
Old 12-17-2009, 10:14 PM
kevace1's Avatar
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Default before i tackle this brake job....

Hey guys, just wanted to ask the audi addicts and expert tech guys here. I'm planning on changing my right rear caliper, caus my ignorant self did not know about the "push down and screw" method needed for the rears, I jacked up my right rear caliper as I just used a c-clamp and compressed it, bu tteh caliper now does not retract back and my pedal goes to the floor and i have to pump the brakes a bit to get smooth stop. Anyways, just wood like to knwo if there is something special should know or need other than the DOT 4 fluid, the necessary bleeding material, etc. Precautions? things i must do for this particular car?

I have changed clutches, motors, trans, and all sorts of crap on my previous cars, so nothing is really new to me or seams hard, but just want to do it right the first time and not mess anything up like to did with teh previous caliper.

DO have one question: after i put on the other caliper, do i need to adjust the brake cable? or will it self adjust?

Thanks alot in advance
 
  #2  
Old 12-18-2009, 10:37 AM
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Youll probably just have to pump the pedal after you push the caliper in. When you push it in the fluid goes back into the master cylinder and the first few times you push the brakes you wont get anywhere.
Other than that as long as you do everything else with common sense you should be fine
 
  #3  
Old 12-23-2009, 09:12 AM
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how about the the brake cable?? do I just have to put it in teh new caliper and it will set itself?? someone help here.......
 
  #4  
Old 12-28-2009, 01:23 AM
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Just wanted to update this one as well.............................i will put the following on caps so it is understood..........

I REPLACED MY REAR CALIPER AND I CHANGED MY REAR ROTORS AND PADS AT THE SAME TIME.......AND DID NOT NEED THE BRAKE COMPRESSION TOOL. I USED A C-CLAMP THAT HAD A PIVOT HEAD THAT SPINS freely, AS I WAS COMPRESSING AND THE CALIPER WOULD BASICALLY SPIN ITSELF INTO PLACE, IN THE ONE TIME THAT I FELT RESISTANCE, I STOPPED AND USED SLIP JOINT PLIERS (WE CALL THEM CHANNEL LOCKS IN MY FIELD) AND ROTATED THE PISTON AS I RE-TIGHTENED THE C-CLAMP. I USED THIS PROCEDURE FOR BOTH SIDES, AND ALL WENT WELL.

I guess if a caliper piston proves stubborn, you will have to tighten, then turn clockwise, then tighten and continue the cycle until the piston is fully in. Any c-clamp with the tip of the threaded rod that pivots or twists freely will work, though i believe all have this feature.....have not seen one otherwise.

and to answer my own question about the brake cable, no adjustment needed, just put it on and it adjusts itself...
 

Last edited by kevace1; 12-28-2009 at 01:26 AM.
  #5  
Old 12-28-2009, 11:16 AM
hiwords's Avatar
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idk if you bled the system or not but autozone sells a single man bleeder kit. you can make your own bleeder if you felt the autozone one is too puny which it is. here's the diy called "http://www.audiworld.com/tech/misc.html" on http://www.audiworld.com/tech/misc.html
 
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