Ok decided to tackle the timing belt job. I'm looking for the cam locking bar I didn't want to pay 180 from Ecs or the 300 to rent from blauparts. I looked on ebay there's a bunch on there from 30-50 with the crank lock pin also has anyone tried the ebay tool and feedback. Oh and it's a 96 2.8 12v qm

 

That is the least precise tool imaginable. Its pretty hard for a cheap eBay one to let you down. Just know that you need the 12 valve tool: its a little shorter than the 30 valve tool. A lot of them are adjustable so they fit either motor.

 

Yes I know slightly shorter but you think as long as I get the 12v I'll be good

 

I do. It takes no stress so doesn't have to be strong. As long as they've measured right, they couldn't screw up that tool!

 

Ok and how important is the timing belt dampener and tensioning lever cause that's the only difference in the two timing kits and its $100 difference

 

Very. Most of the time the timing belt breaks because either the tensioner, water pump or idler pulley goes bad. You want everything that holds that belt in place to be new.

 

It's not the tensioner it's the dampener. And Ecs kit is stupid it only includes 1 cam seal with it hello it's a v6 there's 2. If I go with blauparts it comes with the same stuff as the Ecs kit but comes with both seals and they have a deal for your serptine belt tensior for 25 with purchase of timing kit


http://www.blauparts.com/proddetail....od=GH21111%2DB

 

Sorry, got 'cha on the dampener. I've gone both ways on that. Its not like its a spinning part so you wouldn't think its wear rate would be as high. And frankly, some of the new cheapo aftermarket ones I've seen looked less trustworthy than the factory one with 90,000 miles on them. On the other hand if that belt goes slack.....

Weird with the ECS kit. I wouldn't let that make the decision. I bet it was just a typo, and if not, even at the dealer a cam seal's a pretty cheap part.

 

Your '96 12V doesn't have a dampener/tensioning lever. There is simply one belt roller with an off-center mounting hole, so you turn the roller's hub with a hex key until the belt is tensioned correctly, then tighten the roller's bolt. Correct belt tension means it can be twisted 1/4 turn using your thumb and forefinger, on the longest span of timing belt.

That roller's bolt is a single-point failure part if there ever was one, so use a decent torque wrench when tightening it. If it were to loosen, the roller hub might rotate and slacken the timing belt enough to jump sprocket teeth.

 

Alright thanks