My breaks are getting squeaky so i got me front and back break pads but i have a question im at 84k miles on stock rotors, can i get away with just changing the break pads? b\c everywhere i go they want to charge me 300 extra just for resurfacing my rotors is it even that necessary?

 

depends on the rotors. Not recommended, but in a bind it may work if they're not too torn up. oh didn't read enough. you won't find a garage that will put new pads in without some kind of work to the rotors. $300 to resurface??? you need to find a cheaper mechanic.

 

do they shutter at all now? have they ever been turned previously?

 

check the rotor runout that will tell you. more then .004 and you need to resurface them

 

I agree with jiggleo...300 bucks to turn is rape age!!! You could buy you some new rotors, pads, and diy for not much more than that

 

Measure the rotors. If they are above spec and not warped, clean the calipers, lube the sliders, pad slap them and be on your way. You'll have a longer bed-in period, but Audi brake pads changed under warranty flat-rate certainly do not include re-surfacing rotors...

I don't think I've ever resurfaced rotors except for in school. Usually the outcome is worse than the beginning. If they are heavily gouged or glazed, replace them. If they are warped, replace them. The resurfacing required to fix a gouge or a wobble often removes a significant amount of material from the rotor, hence making them thinner and more prone to warping or glazing, and thusly creating customer comebacks.

 

what does "wrapage" of the rotors mean?

 

Another opinion:
If your car is absolutely perfect in all other respects and you need exceptional response time to breaking, then replace / resurface (if you have identified a problem). If you think other factors might affect your driving safety, like crappy break fluid, discount brake pads, excess speed, inattentiveness per cell phone, rap radio station, hangover, hurrying to party to drink again, girlfriend in front seat, girl on sidewalk, frost on glass, dirt on inside of glass, poor wipers, non polarized sunglasses, then just change the pads and keep moving. Your "less than brand new" tires are probably the limiting factor on stopping anyway.

 

When the lateral run-out measures more than a specified amount. This will cause the disc to push the pads back towards the piston and the pressure of the hydraulics to push back on the pad. It creates a vibration in the brake pedal during braking.


And for the record, discs are resurfaced, refinished, or machined. Drums are "turned."

 

Where do you live???
The machine shops in my area charge 15-20 to resurface a rotor, if you bring it to them, and it take no more than an hour.