I finally came up on a little extra cash after a long dry spout from when I replaced my engine. My major concern right now is to replace the passenger side front axle since the inner cv boot is torn and now the car makes a grinding sound with occasional vibration which makes me nervous since I have to commute 100 mi. + to work 5 days a week. I wanted to ask first off if it's difficult to replace the axles yourself? Is there a trick to lining up the connection to the tranny/differential? I know I need a 12 point bit connected to a socket, but what size?(I would have to buy one) Also, where the spline connects to the hub, I'm guessing I will also need that one tool that pushes it out. I'm going to put a new one in on the other side too since I want everything new and for peace of mind. Any help with the axle mainly would be great. Any other suggestions are welcome too. Thanks.

Here's a list of what's going to be done:

resurface f rotors
new pads
2 new axles
2 new bearings
complete f upper and lower CA kit
4 new tires possibly with new rims
And of course an alignment after all the work is done

 

Worst part about the axles is if there's any rust. Last axles i took out of an A4 required two guys and some time to remove. No fun, but got it done. Normally, just loosen the 14mm socket nut from the hub. I think the 12pts are 8mm. Straight forward really.

The axle can be dangerous when the grease runs out. Worst case it will start binding up and seizing-- not something to take too chance on a long commute.

Wheel bearings on the other hand are MUCH harder than axles (which aren't a big deal). It requires either a special bearing toolset and/or a shop press. I have both and it's still challenging. The uprights need to be removed, too. Plan on a full weekend of work with the right tools.

 

If you need an axle out just have Bri drive your car.

 

The hardest part about doing the passanger side axle is getting the heat shield off/on so you can get to the bolts, and making sure the gasket is perfectly lined up. But it's nothing compared to r/r control arms. If by resurfface the rotrors you mean using a sanding wheel to buff away corrosion or glaze then ok, but you'll probably do more harm than good if you are trying to actualy shave away /reveal a new layer of surface. That procedure is sort of outdated... It makes the rotor more likely to warp because it reduces heat distribution/ disipation properties. Have a shop press your hubs and bearings out/in. Don't even put yourself through the misery that is using a hub shark/handheld sort of puller/press.

 

Ok. Thanks for the advice so far.

 

I was thinking that I might just have a shop do the axles and switch out the bearings all at once. It just seems like less of a hassle

 

Less of a hassle for your delicate hands, big hassle on your wallet

 

Well for labor they're charging $60 per axle so I don't know. I've just never done this before so I'm a little scared to mess something up and I'd have to go buy some more tools to do it. That's what I meant by a hassle.

 

I know what you mean... I'd like to know what their quote is to do the wheel bearings.

 

I'm going to call them again today to see how much more it would be doing the bearings too. I'll post up how much as soon as I find out.