Gonna tackle the control arms, but have a few questions
 

I've been preparing myself for the cage match between me and my beloved Brunnhilde this coming weekend. I just ordered the "option no. 3" kit(the one with the full metal inner tie rod end) from FCP Groton, and after reading multiple DIY control arm threads, I still have a few questions that were not answered in those DIY's:

1) Is it mandatory to remove the wheel bearing housing("The knuckle")even if I'm not going to replace the front wheel bearings? Every DIY I've seen has them removing the knuckle, but they don't explain why that's necessary.

2) Are there any reverse threaded bolts in either the control arms or tie rod end assemblies? I don't want to accidentally tighten when I should be loosening.

3) Which works better for this job, an air powered impact wrench or an air powered ratchet? I'd rather not spend the money on both at the same time if I can help it.

Thanks for all advice in advance. My colleagues at work have placed money down that the Audi wins the battle this weekend, but I hope to prove them wrong! :D

I just did this job last weekend..

1- It's not so much that you're trying to remove the knuckle, however in the process of removing the upper & lower arms, and tie rods, and the axle slips out, and voila, the knuckle is off the car, with the exception of a couple wires still keeping it attached. You're indirectly removing it. It is, however, the only way to do it if you're replacing everything.

2- Nope. Righty-tightly, leftly loosey.

3- Someone else might want to chime in on this one. My pinchbolt came out just fine along with all the other nuts and bolts.

I do strongly recommend, because I couldn't have done the job with out it, rent these two sets from advanced auto parts. These aren't the exact sets but they have the same tools. Inner Tie Rod Removal Set. The other one looks just like the "Astro Front end service set", the black case Astro Pneumatic Automotive Suspension Service Tool Sets. You'll need a 19MM 1/2" socket for that set.

I rented everything for a deposit of $212.00 that you get back when you return the sets. If you have anymore questions PM me.

Start soaking the pinch bolts in PB blaster now. Youll probably want an impact wrench (whichever of the two is stronger), and make sure you have a big breaker bar.

job is pretty straight forward my pinch bolt wasnt a a bad spot although people will tell you some pretty bad storys just take it easy on it cause they dont give you a new one in the kits. as for the ratchet or gun, i always pick the gun normally the ratchet is less powerful, even on its highest setting. definately give it all a bath in some type of penetration liquid. and good luck.

Your location in Minnesota will tell me that the car has been exposed to some winter weather. So road salt and other grime has not doubt has run its course on the pinch bolt.

There are many different ways of getting the job done so I will only advise with what worked for me. If you have an area big enough to work, pull the entire suspension unit out in one piece. You heard me right. Undo just enough to to pull the upper and lower control arms out as one piece, that way, if you run into issues with the pinch bolt (as many have) you aren't fighting yourself trying to find a way to get it loose. Just remember take your time and when it comes time to button everything up, tighten everything at ride height.

If you get stuck, you can usually get an answer in a few minutes by posting up your issue. I know a few of us constantly check the boards on the weekend.

That being said, it's good to see that you are tackling the job yourself. I'm glad I took the time to do mine which helped me to understand how everything worked.

My kit included new hardware for every bolt and nut, including the pinch bolt, plus extra. Yours should too. To get the pinch bolt out, spread the pinches out after backing the nut off (but not removing it), then soak the bolt in penetrating fluid and try to remove it. If that doesn't work, light that SOB up with a map gas torch and beat the living hell out of it with a 4-lb sledgehammer. That'll have it out in 5 minutes. Fire, violence, and obscenities are the key.

Hopefully you'll have a pinchbolt experience similar to this... ‪Audi a4 pinchbolt‬‏ - YouTube Thank you florida weather! (never thought I'd say that)

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:D Thanks!

Wow, so many excellent suggestions from the Audi Forum regulars. Thanks guys!


Yes, excellent idea. I'm going to swing by Autozone and rent both of those kits.

Getting back to the wheel bearing housing...My Bentley manual is sitting at home and I forgot to take a look this morning. if anyone has their Bentley guide handy, could you please verify that the axle bolt takes a 17mm hex bit? I've got one of those already from the auto tranny refill job, but if it's a 24mm bit, I'm going to have to order one today!

I've got a nice 1/2" breaker bar, but it's only about 18" long. What works well as an extension? PVC pipe? metal pipe? I have a feeling that I'm gonna need a long-assed extension to break that axle bolt free.

I'll start spraying PB Blaster tonight on the pinch bolts, and will repeat that process every day til I begin on Friday morning.

Regarding the inner tie rod assembly removal... This has a boot around it, correct? So I'll have to remove clips on both sides of the boot? Does the FCP Groton kit include new clips for the boot?