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HELP!!, Did I screw up my engine (bent valves) ??

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HELP!!, Did I screw up my engine (bent valves) ??

  #11  
Old 08-20-2010, 09:06 AM
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Whats the gap on the plugs?
 
  #12  
Old 08-20-2010, 11:03 AM
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The +2's or any plug with multiple ground electrodes are sort of gimicky, plus they are nearly impossible to gap. The best spark for forced induction is going to be a copper, single electrode one with a tight gap. Plats work, but copper disipates heat better and is maybe the best conductor for electricity. They don't last as long as plat, but cost about $2/plug. Get some NGK BKR6E gapped between .030-.032 if stock.
 
  #13  
Old 08-20-2010, 11:20 AM
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.028 if chipped (and since you said you bought it slightly modded, I would assume the previous owner got it chipped).

Your best bet now, I think, would be get the plugs onepoint8 suggested, gap them to .030 if you don't know if you're chipped or not, clear your codes and try again.

Glad to hear you didn't cause any catastrophic damage in the early stages!
 
  #14  
Old 08-21-2010, 02:23 PM
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OK
Here is where I stand.

Just to be sure I checked my maf it was extremely clean.
I cleared the codes and started the car without it, it still ran like crap and gave me a MAF circuit error.
So I am dismissing that as a possible misfire problem.

I then went to Autozone and got 8 Autolite-Platinum/Spark Plugs they were out of Ngk-Laser-Platinum/Spark Plug in the area. I also got 4 duralast ignition coils.

The plugs the car came with had .028 gaps so I changed 4 of the plugs to .028 and gave it a try. Still ran like crap.
I tried the stock gap. It actually ran slightly better as far as idling over 1000 rmp is concerned but still ran like crap.
Note: the plugs that I originally installed are BLACK and fouled up. Since I got my first misfire code I have not had the car running more that 15 mins. I had the car running for only about 5 mins with those plugs.

I then cleared the misfire codes and ran the engine with the new coils with both sets of plugs, and it still runs like crap.

Im still getting the P03000 # codes and Mil and the EPC lights still comes on.


The only things I can think now is the catalytic converter is clogged, or the computer is messed up, perhaps something with the throttle body (since the EPC light come on after a while) not delivering air since there is so much carbon buildup on the plugs.

Man I like this Audi a lot but man I'm starting to miss my old BMW, I guess Im more familuar.
I dont mind buying new parts, its will mean less problems and $$ for me down the road but
this whole thing is confusing because literally the car ran fine since I bought it, I literally only changed the tensioner and plugs then this problem happened, I must have loosened something , I also changed the camshaft sensor prior to all this and cleared it (that it ran fine even with the P1340 code, and I put like 100 miles on it)

Any Ideas.

I think Im going to mess around with the throttle body and see what happens.
 
  #15  
Old 08-21-2010, 04:40 PM
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Well now we are back on the topic of possible bent valves. Even though the intake cam was off by only 1 tooth, it sure does seem like you have symptoms of bent intake valves. Especialy knowing this-
I've also noticed that if I clear the codes and keep the engine at over 2000 rpms I got no codes. However if I let it idle (under 1000 rpm) it idles rough and I get the misfire codes sometimes I even get a P0333 (knock sensor error).
You really need vag com to check the throtle body since it's dbw. You could disonnect the bat over night and then reconnect.. Turn ignition to on and let it sit for a min so that it can realign/ adapt with the ecu. It is scary that you don't have a maf fault, and coils and plugs are good... Even if the maf was bad and didn't register a fault, the map sensor should register a fault if there was a loss of air before the manifold- at least while the engine is under load.

You have vvt, so even though the cam was off by 1 tooth, this difference could be exagerated with vvt in action - but thats just speculation on my part. Idk this for sure, but it seems possible.
 

Last edited by onepoint8tee; 08-21-2010 at 04:50 PM.
  #16  
Old 08-21-2010, 04:51 PM
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Update,
Oil has or is leaking on the spark plugs!!

spark plug 1 is dry, but 2,3,4 has oil, especially 3 and 4,
That would explain why I never got a P0301 misfire code from cylinder 1.

Im assuming I got in there when I was changing the tensioner.
Im also assuming that the origionals we not origionally dirty before I changed them.

Im going to torqe the valve cover and spark plugs to specifications. Im hoping this is the cause of the misfire

PS the valve cover gaskets are new already.
 
  #17  
Old 08-21-2010, 05:01 PM
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Yeah, I have a vag com on the way.

The sole reason I now dont think I have bent valves is because of the sudden order of everything.

After changing the tensioner I manually turned the crank 4x to see if there was any resistance, and the timing lines were in order. And like you said it was only 1 tooth off, but the engine fine before the I worked on the engine then immediately after it wasn't working.
But it really seems like a bent valve by description. Im about to go outside and tightening up the valve cover and hopefully I wouldn't have any more oil on the plugs and my misfires will go away.



Originally Posted by onepoint8tee View Post
Well now we are back on the topic of possible bent valves. Even though the intake cam was off by only 1 tooth, it sure does seem like you have symptoms of bent intake valves. Especialy knowing this-


You really need vag com to check the throtle body since it's dbw. You could disonnect the bat over night and then reconnect.. Turn ignition to on and let it sit for a min so that it can realign/ adapt with the ecu. It is scary that you don't have a maf fault, and coils and plugs are good... Even if the maf was bad and didn't register a fault, the map sensor should register a fault if there was a loss of air before the manifold- at least while the engine is under load.

You have vvt, so even though the cam was off by 1 tooth, this difference could be exagerated with vvt in action - but thats just speculation on my part. Idk this for sure, but it seems possible.
 
  #18  
Old 08-21-2010, 05:12 PM
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Well make sure the plugs are dry after you tighten everything up. Even if the valve cover was mostly tq'd down but not to spec (ie. a pretty good seal between the valve cover and head,) I don't think you'd have this issue.
 
  #19  
Old 08-30-2010, 10:52 AM
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OK, the oil was defiantly causing the misfires, #4 and #3 are the worst.
I think my valve cover isn't 100% level so I used some gasket maker around the gasket for the plugs.

It looks like there's a significant amount of oil in combustion chambers #4 & #3. I can smell the oil burning when it runs.
What is the best method of cleaning? Seafoam?

I found this online, is has anyone used anything similar.

SM727 carbon cleaner machine
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E8vaXhuHmyI
 

Last edited by jasonmp3; 08-30-2010 at 10:55 AM.
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