Why would you need to remove the cap when compressing the calipers? There is a vent in the cap to release any displaced air from the rising fluid and no fluid should need to be removed as it is a closed system.

As the pads wear, the fluid level will decrease, but this is normal. I have never removed the cap or opened the bleeders while compressing the calipers and never had a problem.

 

after you lathed the rotor what did you do about honing the rotor? i thought they needed the cross hatching to insure proper break in for the pads.

 

Just buy rotors, they are mega dirt cheap. Who reuses rotors? I see it all the time yet i dont understand not spending 50-100 on new rotors.

 

Good write up...
This is on my "Get off your butt and do it" list....

 

My Haines manual wants me to loosen the e-brake cable, which is a multi-step PITA when replacing rear brake pads. Is this necessary? The OP and commenters did not mention it. My online shop manual does not mention it.

Any advice?

 

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No need to remove the handbrake cables when doing rear pads. The only difference from the front is that you need to rotate the pistons while compressing them.

 

That sucks! I hate having to rotate caliper pistons. I don't understand why some are engineered that way.

 

The pistons have to be rotated because they are threaded onto the adjusters for the handbrake. It's a pretty common system for a handbrake and IMHO far less complicated than an internal drum brake.

I suppose if you'd rather not have to rotate the pistons, you could disassemble the calipers and remove the adjusters. This would also leave you without a handbrake of course.

 

I understand, but I'm sure there's a much easier, cheaper and more efficient way of engineering that setup.

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