Fisheye,

Thanks so much for your helpful writeup -- it made my brake job so much easier!

 

Thank you for this diy. It was very useful.
i have a quick question. What would cause the rear pads to be rubbing? I replaced the rotor and pad. Upon looking at it there is no gap between pad and rotor.
Any help would be appreciated.
Thank you

 

Often there's very little gap when looking at it because the piston hasn't compressed back yet. It's not a big deal unless you're hearing rubbing or scraping, feeling it, or seeing uneven wear on the pads or rotor.
It just the nature of brakes that the piston doesn't fully compress back into the caliper after every time you press the brake pedal.

 

Thank you for the reply.
I don't hear anything rubbing/scraping (thank God). Quiet as a mouse. I was going to check the carrier pins to make sure they were sliding freely.

I do feel a little vibration. It feels like the rear passenger side. Which I'm thinking is from another issue. I loosened the camber screw when I swapped suspension and the wheel is slightly inward just a hair.

 

Vibration can be a lot of things back there but brake pads are pretty far down on the list

 

Thanks. I wasn't lumping the 2 together. It's just another thing I have to look into.
i appreciate the response though definitely.

 

#10 Yes the FWD model has the wheel bearings inside the hub/Brake disc, as well as the exciter ring ( teeth ) for the speed sensor.
Disc is 10mm thick & wears down to 8mm
So new discs need new wheel bearings ( i expect. A bit of work to knock the old ones out & fit them into new discs, it would need brand new seals anyway.

Notice that in the instructions that the old pads are a different shape from the new pads.
There is a difference in the slot in the caliper setup & the pads without the notch in the pad have a higher lump where the springs rivet is. In some calipers the slit is not as long & the outer pad wont fit in its the sort without the notch.
The pads with the notch fits both sorts of caliper. So get them anyway.
#34 #35 #40
I ended up pushing the piston in using a balljoint seperator & the disc removal key/ lever from a 9 inch angle grinder to do the turning, slipjaws pliers would work too.
But the right tool for the job is the right tool. If you intend to do this job more than once. But that tool, its cheap considering what it does.
My rubber seals on the pistons was ripped because somebody didnt have the correct tools.

I would also undo the bleeding nipple & push some hose onto it & put the other end of the hose into a waste fluid bottle to relieve the back pressure.
Id also bleed the brakes 100% anyway. Suck out the fluid in the resiviour, top it up with fresh fluid & bleed it completely. I wish they had diferent colour fluids so you could tell its been flushed thru properly.

 

Spray penetrating fluid around the centre / smack the back of the rotor with a rubber mallet.

If that doesn't work, you can use a gear puller tool to pull the rotor off.

 

I agree. On the plus side you can also upgrade to slotted or cross-drilled rotors for pennies more than having old ones turned.