Lower front control arm....
 

Am I correct in what I read here some years ago that the front lower control arm has an Allen wrench hole at the bottom of the threaded shaft to be used with said wrench to tighten or loosen the nut??:confused:

I know the Audi brand ones do. Can't speak for all the aftermarket ones. Its only use is to hold the ball joint shaft while you spin the nut on. There is no need to hold the shaft when you remove the nut. Trust me, that shaft isn't turning after it's been on the car for a while, and you spend the next 30 - 60 minutes with a pickle fork or your favorite ball joint removal tool just to get it to move.

It depends on the manufacturer. As mtroxel pointed out, the OEM ones do, others don't. If you're having trouble with the shaft spinning while tightening the nut, put your jack or a pry bar under it to put some upward pressure on the ball joint to get it seated. A trick for removing the joint is to hit the side of the casting where the joint is. Put another hammer on the back side if it seems to bounce around too much. Worked for me every time.

I've heard that from other guys. Tried it many times and never did a thing for me. Next time I do a ball joint, would you fly to Minnesota and show me how that works?

Happy to demo it for you. Just pay for the airfare. :p

What?!!!
 

bshusted you said.."put your jack or a pry bar under it to put some upward pressure on the ball joint to get it seated." Now why would you want to put a jack UNDER the very CONTROL ARM you want to seat in tight so the nut won't spin on the shaft?? Wouldn't you want to put pressure DOWN on the control arm to seat the ball joint shaft in tight? Please clarify.:confused:

You do want to press the taper into the housing to get it seated so that the nut can be tightened. One of the ball joints come up from the bottom and the other goes in from the top. I couldn't remember which way the forward one was oriented. If you're doing the one that comes in from the top, use the pry to push it downward into the casting.