Lubricate Shock mount.
 

I am trying to get rid of a rubbing noise. I have no idea where it is coming from and it ONLY occurs when it is hot out and the car is hot. In the winter it makes no noise at all. And after the car starts to cool down even if it is still hot out it will get much less noisy and eventually be hard to hear. One suspicion I have is the shock mount. Also it is only on the front driver's side of the car. So what I am going to do is remove both front strut assemblies and switch them. Left to right and right to left. Also I want to lubricate the shock mount (see picture below) - is that okay? If the noise stops - great - or remains and travels to the passenger side then I know it is something in the strut assembly (the soil spring or spring mount). If it remains on the drivers side then I ahve more info. I plan on lubricating the shock mount with the same grease used for the brake caliper guides.By the way this noise is loud and is a pain to listen to.

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I don't think lubrication is your problem. Suspension (polyurethane) bushings tend to make noise when they're not in their proper position. They're typically making noise because they're trying to "move back into position". If you haven't taken your struts/suspension apart before, be very careful. If a spring pops off the compressor, you can get mangled or potentially killed.

G/L

I agree with all you said - the caveat is that it only occurs when hot as described in my initial post. It should do it all the time. I changed all the front end components about 2 years ago. It was after this that it occurred. Also when I did the struts I do not do the switch out of the shocks. I brought the strut assembly to a shop to have them swap out the shocks and other parts and put it back together. Did not want to risk any injury.

I have replace all the front control arms (upper and lower), shock, shock mount, lower spring seat (not upper) outer tie rod ends and sway bar links. The only thing different are the sway bar links.. bushing type instead of ball and joint. After the replacement the noise started. After that I was told it was certain things so I replace them again (the shock, shock mount, upper out control arm). Also I had one mechanic tell me that I did not properly tighten the upper control arms under load correctly. I said I did both sides the same... according to the audi suspension diagram (on this forum). He said I needed to do it while the car is sitting on the ground. I said there is no room to reach - but I redid it with extreme difficulty. All this to no avail. This is why I want to switch the strut assemblies from one side to the other to see of the noise travels with the assembly. Also if lubricating the shock mount is okay I want to try that. The vibration from the noise is most prominent in the spring and lower front control arm and upper front control arm.

Thanks for the help. This noise is annoying.

It definitely sounds like you're experiencing what I'm talking about. I've done every suspension component (front and back) on both of my cars many times and I've had the same issue before. It could be anything from the spring perch, to the control arms (they have to be raised to a certain height when they're tightened down, etc.).

There's nothing wrong with hitting everything with lube. I would use "Dupont Teflon Dry Lube". You can get it at Lowes, etc. Spray the shit out of everything, because it may be something simple, like a bushing stuck on/rubbing on a control arm. That could save you some serious time and headache.

LMK how it goes and G/L.

I was diligent about trying to get everything to spec including the torque specs. Thanks for the tip on the Lube. I will get the Lube you recommended. Yesterday I did switch the front strut assembly from each side of the car to see if the noise travels with the assembly. Have not driven it yet. I will update when I do. Looking forward to eliminating this noise. Thanks again.

My pleasure. LMK how it goes.

G/L

Update.. I finally drove the car. The strut assembly switch made no difference. Unless the assembly is somehow causing the noise when installed, regardless of which one it is, It is not the assembly. The noise is still there. When I put my hand on any of the control arms I can feel a vibration. I changed one of them already so it is either the one of the other three, the outer tie rod end or the sway bar link or ? And 4-5 hours later when the car cools down the noise is gone. So frustrating.

So do yo think the lube will penetrate the bushings while all is installed. I will bet the dry lube and spray all the bushings and anything else that looks like it might be the culprit.

Question regarding the strut install. the last bolt I put on is the bolt that holds the shock to the lower front control arm. In order to insert the the bolt I need to push the shock about down towards the control arm at least 2 inches as it does not line up exactly with the holes on the control arm. I have to do this on both sides but was wondering if this is normal or if the holes should basically line it within a 1/2 in or so. The way it is now it is not and after I push it down to line up there is some torque on the strut - and I am wondering if this is causing the noise. If I remember correctly I thought it was the same on the original parts before the change. It may seem like a strange question - but I am fishing as this noise is driving me nuts.

Further update - when it was making the noise I removed the lower bolt of the sway bar drop link so it was not connected to the sway bar (and therefore no stress on the link at all and after I lowered the car it was still making the noise. So the link is eliminated. That leaves 3 control arms and the strut mount if it is still in play. Also regarding the strut I feel the most vibration on the spring itself when the noise is made.

Anyway attached is a recording of the sound (phone is on the top of the tire to record it).

Okay. A couple of things to go over: Oil makes rubber swell, so make sure you don't have any oil leaking on anything. I would spray the shit out of everything with Brakleen (non chlorinated), then (once that dries), spray the shit out of everything with DuPont Teflon Dry Lube. Afterwards, test drive to confirm/deny solution.

Next, as far as your strut question, they're always a bitch (because they swivel). I've always had to take a breaker bar and twist them (at the fork) in order to get them lined up. Question: When you secured the top of the strut assembly to the perch, did you tighten down the strut allen bolt (inside the nut)? It's easy to overlook.

Finally, from what I'm hearing in your clip, it doesn't sound like you have a bushing problem to me. It sounds like something is either too loose, or too tight. If something (especially the strut assembly) is too loose, it will make the sound in your clip. If something is out of "whack" (like a control arm being tightened down in the wrong resting position), it could be bottoming out (or vice versa). This also applies to arms being tightened down too much/too tight.

To be prudent, I would also check the ball joints and the springs themselves. If a spring loses it's tensile strength, it's useless and the strut will bottom out over every bump (and you will definitely hear it). I started doing my own suspension work because I broke a lot of 20 inch wheels and (new) tires that way (always the same wheel). Park the car on an even, flat (relatively level) surface and stand about 15 feet in front of the car. Squat down and see if one side of the front end looks lower than the other. If one is bad, it should be relatively obvious.

Once you do/check all of that, I would suggest an alignment as well, but do the alignment last.

G/L

Thank you for the reply and your time.. The too tight or too loose makes sense. It must have something to do with swelling as the sound only occurs when the engine AND the ambient temp is hot (especially the ambient temp as even a hot engine in the winter there is no noise) I do not think, but will get some Brakleen, it is oil swelling as the noise started immediately after I finished the car and drove it. Not enough time to oil up (so to speak). Btw why non chlorinated, does it work better.

To answer the questions.

The fork is lined up.. What i meant is the in order to secure it to the control arm (and slide the bolt through) the fork must be pushed to the left 2 inches to line up the holes. It is not simply 1/2 inch away (almost line up) so to speak. See pic

Regarding the allen bolt I assume you mean the bold and nut that hold the strut assembly together (the one inside the strut mount). If so I did not put it together but I believe (can verify) it is tight. I had a shop compress the springs and replace the shock. Do not know if it is too tight. Do you know the torque spec. I can then check it. If the allen bolt is too tight could that cause it.

Regarding the something being too tight or loose I would think it would be too tight - these are the torque specs I used (I used the same on both sides of the car and was very meticulous about each yet only the drivers side is the issue). Upper control arms to counting plate. 37 ft-lbs plus 90 degrees. Control arms to spindle. 30 ft-lbs. Outer tie rod 73 ft-lbs. Front lower control arm to frame 59 ft-lbs plus 90 and to spindle 66 ft-lbs. Rear lower control arm to frame 66 ft-lbs plus 90 and to spindle 74 ft-lbs. Shock to lower front control arm 66 ft-lbs. And sway bar link. 30 ft-lbs. I can looses and re-torque everything - not an issue, though tedious for a couple bolts.

What Do you mean the ball joints and springs themselves. The car definitely does not bottom - it feels solid. Also the spring that is now on the drivers side was on the left where it made no noise. I will check the car from a distance. And the car has had a fairly recent alignment and I had them recheck it as I was not satisfied.

Thanks again.

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Two inches is a long way to have to move any suspension component (that's not meant to travel in that direction). It sounds like something is off and causing both sides to bind. At this point, I would have to see it for myself. Everything should line up with relative ease (which I know is an oxymoron when you're talking about suspension).

As far as the Brake Clean goes, I say "Non-Chlorinated", because Chlorine is corrosive as well as hazardous to your health (not to mention, completely unnecessary).

I'm running out of ideas at this point. My best suggestion is to take the sway bar off completely, loosen EVERY bolt on every suspension component (including the spring perch bolts up top), disconnect the strut fork completely, disconnect the lower control arms (from the spindle) completely and play with the suspension (up and down) until you can get everything lined up as best as possible (make sure everything has relative free play). After that, tighten everything back up in order of what feels like it's sitting/moving correctly first (I would begin with the strut fork itself. See if it has to be moved two inches). I know that's going to be a bitch, but hopefully it will at least let you know which component(s) feel wrong. I wouldn't worry too much about the ball joints, as long as the nuts come off of them without the entire ball joint rotating with the nut.

Again: G/L