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Misfire Troubleshooting

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  #11  
Old 06-08-2009, 10:52 AM
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Will do! Just don't expect it to happen anytime soon. I plan on doing the engine rebuild with my next timing belt job (about 55,000 miles from now). So it probably won't happen any sooner than that. Plus I want to give myself enough time to really know what I'm doing.
 
  #12  
Old 06-08-2009, 09:03 PM
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Originally Posted by a2thy
Just got back from the test drive and sure enough the misfire was still there with all the same symptoms. When I got back, I pulled up my fault codes and found that it was cylinder #3 this time (the one with #4's old coil pack). So this means that it is, without a doubt, the coil pack, right?
Yes. Stop here. It seems like you're taking a lot of erroneous DVOM readings that will give you random results. Replace all 4 coil packs if they are dated previous to 2008. 2001MY has the secondary built into the coil (in place of the ICM) and tend to go bad all around the same time. Audi list on them is $33.00 or so; just replace all 4 to avoid another issue.


Originally Posted by a2thy
Also forgot to mention. Upon initial start up after replacing the missing ECM fuse, I heard a horrible loud very high pitch noise coming from the turbo, sounded just like a jet engine at close range. It's intermittent, and has become less frequent throughout the day. Anyone know what it could be? the car has 126,220 miles on it.
Sounds like a bad turbo. Stock turbos usually blow smoke when bad, but not always. Average lifespan seems to be about 120-150K miles. Check for boost leaks, bad DV, or cracked exhaust manifold first.
 
  #13  
Old 06-10-2009, 07:14 AM
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For the coil packs, what do you mean by "the secondary"? and are there better coil packs I can use to replace them (aftermarket or OEM)?

Also the clips for the coil pack wire connectors are all cracked, can I get some from a junkyard and just splice them on to replace them? If so, do you know what model years would be compatible?

Thanks for all the advice! I'll be checking all those turbo related components ASAP.
 
  #14  
Old 06-11-2009, 08:13 AM
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Originally Posted by a2thy
are there better coil packs I can use to replace them (aftermarket or OEM)?

Also the clips for the coil pack wire connectors are all cracked, can I get some from a junkyard and just splice them on to replace them? If so, do you know what model years would be compatible?
Bump.
 
  #15  
Old 06-11-2009, 12:28 PM
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well for your year they should have been the upgraded S4 coil packs. i'd fix the 02 sensor first and replace the temp sensor. i don't think your coil packs are bad. as for the turbo, take off the hose for the intake and try to wiggle the turbine in there for shaft play. it shouldn't very much at all
 
  #16  
Old 06-12-2009, 02:39 AM
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I just replaced both O2 sensors because they were throwing codes. Do you mean replace the temp sensor in the intake manifold?

Do you know if I can just splice on some new coil pack electrical connectors to replace the cracked ones, or am I going to need some kind of posi lock or something to connect the old wires to the new ones?
 
  #17  
Old 06-13-2009, 07:42 PM
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I got one new coil pack from Napa and switched it with the defective one. Now cylinder #4 is the one misfiring again. Should I just go with four new OEM coil packs from NAPA? or is there a more reliable type out there? I don't think I have the upgraded S4 ones, because mine don't bolt to the valve cover.

Is it possible that my brand new O2 sensor is broken? How should I check it? What else could be the problem?

Here are the latest fault codes. I think some of them may only be related to the battery being disconnected though. Let me know what you guys think. I'm starting to get frustrated here.

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  #18  
Old 06-13-2009, 10:57 PM
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Originally Posted by a2thy
For the coil packs, what do you mean by "the secondary"? and are there better coil packs I can use to replace them (aftermarket or OEM)?
OEM only. Order from ECS or your local Audi dealer. I meant the "secondary spark," or second "stage." Normally, this is the function of the ICM, but it was integrated into the individual packs on AWM and later engine codes (01 and up).

Originally Posted by a2thy
Also the clips for the coil pack wire connectors are all cracked, can I get some from a junkyard and just splice them on to replace them?
Guaranteed, this is your issue, if not at least contributing to it. The connectors really need to be tight to avoid misfires. You can get the connectors from your Local Audi dealer parts department. They are fairly easy to replace the connectors. DO NOT splice them in; the connectors are designed to remove the leads and replace the connector. You can remove them from any AWM code engine, years 01-02, if I recall correctly.
 
  #19  
Old 06-13-2009, 11:47 PM
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I doubt I can get the new wires/connectors tomorrow seeing how the dealership is closed on Sundays, however I can go to NAPA to get new OEM coil packs. Should I just replace all four coil packs tomorrow and hope for the best? or should I find some way to temporarily hold them in place, via electrical tape etc? Can it damage the new coil packs having cracked connectors?

If I can't splice the new wires together, how should I connect them? Do I need to disconnect the wires all the way back at the ECM, MAF, etc?
 
  #20  
Old 06-14-2009, 01:36 AM
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Originally Posted by a2thy
I doubt I can get the new wires/connectors tomorrow seeing how the dealership is closed on Sundays, however I can go to NAPA to get new OEM coil packs. Should I just replace all four coil packs tomorrow and hope for the best? or should I find some way to temporarily hold them in place, via electrical tape etc? Can it damage the new coil packs having cracked connectors?

If I can't splice the new wires together, how should I connect them? Do I need to disconnect the wires all the way back at the ECM, MAF, etc?

Don't pay more than $35 bucks per coil pack. Audi list is $33 and change each, but some dealers are gouging. I personally recommend all 4 packs if they are dated previous to 2008, as 08 was the latest version.

For now, zip tie the connectors on.

The leads can be removed by undoing the lock from the connector housing and pushing the leads out the back. Be careful not to bend the tangs. If I get a chance this weekend, I'll snap a picture for you.
 


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