My 2001 Audi a B5, B6, or mix?
 

Based on the year ranges provided by the forums my car would be considered a B5. But the 02 sensor I just had to by to replace the old was actually the one listed for 2002 A4 model (I originally bought the one suggested for 2001 but the plug at the end was different then what was in the car).

I was told that it may have been late 2001 model and that means that some parts will actually be 2002 parts, some 2001, and some are the same across both years.

Do I really need to know the term B5/B6 then? Is there an easy way for me to tell what parts I should be buying when looking for certain things? For example, if I want to replace the tail light with a new one.

I ran across this forum when searching the interwebs for info on parts and diagnostic information for some problems we were having with my wifes car (it's her Audi) and at first glance it seems like this is going to be a great resource for information which has me a bit excited and motivated about doing some things to her car (not necessarily mods but self repair at the least). I just don't know how much I should be reading into B5 vs B6. Of course it seems it can't be just as simple as knowing her car is a 2001... discouraging already!

Your car is a B5. Check out the body style, the b5 body style is completely different from the B6 body style. B6's started in 02. As far as the oxygen sensor ordeal, couldnt help ya there. Something else that may help is to look under the hood, and see if your head has AWM printed, it should. And yes this forum is pretty bad ass. Hope you enjoy your new audi. Do a search on Audi Maintenance on this forum, so u get acquainted with ur new baby.

Audi did these sweet half year things with there cars, so you may have a 2001.5.

Take my car for example I have a 1999.5 is looks nothing like a 96-99 inside or out, but has the same AEB engine code. Now it looks just like a 2000 but doesn't have the same motor....

You have the best year... wideband o2 and k03s out of the b6 with the b5 chassis. Pretty much anything engine related will be from a B6, and anything chassis related will be from a late model b5. You're going to have to cross reference parts by your vin number, I know purems will do it if you call them up.

Yeah, you have the 2001.5. Same year as mine. :)

NDBW > DBW If your into modding your car that is......

VVTI and Wideband O2 and better turbo are much better advantages. The "advantages" of DBC are WAY overstated.

yup.

MAFless tuning and lemmi tweaks alone are worth it. The only advantage of dbc is the 20mm wrist pins and aeb head which don't really matter if you're not going big, and you can improve upon those if you are making big power with the newer engines.

Thanks all! This is helpful info. The later lingo is beyond me (NDBW/DBW, DBC, and MAF) but hope some of it will catch on if I stick around long enough. The Terminology & Vocab lists post is already coming in handy. Unfortunately I am pretty car illiterate comparatively speaking but am trying to improve on that at least a little. I hate to bother my gearhead friends with every stupid little thing.

The problems we were having that led me to this forum were hopefully corrected today with Audi replacing the known bad ignition coils. That was after I replaced the upstream O2 sensor (which had been suspect even prior the car running rough) and the four spark plugs which isn't too bad I suppose and things that probably should have been done anyway.

Beer Mod - bad ass truck! That's a nice choice of rides. We have my wifes 2001.5 stock A4 and my 99 basically stock TJ (little lift and bigger tires) but definitely prefer the look of your driveway.

I agree 96-99.5 AEB motors are only better if you want real HP numbers where the big port head will simply flow better. If were talking stock cars then why are we here on a tuner site...lol

Biggest difference in the AWM is the type of water pump it uses, the fact that it has smaller wrist pins and the small port head.


VVT was for emissions purposes only. It didn't add power.......
It had two modes, normal (like every non-vvt), and massive overlap, to draw exhaust gasses back into the cylinders during cold starts to lower emissions. VVT only works at idle and cruising speeds and it's only for emissions.