Not Starting, Cranking, but NOT starting.
 

1996, Audi A4 Quattro 2.8 Manual, 248.000km (around 150.000 miles)

Problem:

Not Starting, Cranking, but NOT starting.

The car just staled on a stop sign. Few minutes before it stalled it start running crappy and lost power, like I downshifted from 3rd to 2nd and like it was running on 3-4 "cylinders" instead of 6 (little bit louder then usual).


Replaced:

Fuse checked. Fuel pump REPLACED.
I have a no knowledge if the fuel pump relay works. Relay number is 8A0951253B (208 on the top). Is there a way to check it if the relay is OK? I have the relay pulled out and ready to buy one, but what if it's NOT the relay. I have a Multimeter, so is there a way to
check if the relay is OK or is it possible that is the fuel filter? Fuel filter should be OK tho, because it was replaced about 4 months ago. (the old one corroded and start dripping fuel). If the relay is OK, is there any way I can check to see if fuel goes to the engine? Or could be some "other" problem with my car.

Any suggestions and help appreciated.

Thanks,

Im not sure of the pinout of the relay, but you can turn the car to on and see if you hear the pump run, or use your multimeter to check for power at the fuel pump. You could also remove the fuel line above the engine and connect a pressure gauge to check fuel pressure. Have you checked for codes??

I just had this problem, and for me it was a $19 ECU relay. I own a 2001 A4 1.8.

ECU Relay? Or you mean Fuel Pump Relay?
I order fuel pump relay, picking it up in ad day or two. Will let you know what happens.
By the way witch is the ECU Relay?

Thanks for your help Dallas09, but the NEW pump is working fine. I replace the the pump because I was to fast and I was not thinking properly. Someone said it's the pump and I jump and change the pump before checking the relay. I check the fuse (it was fine) but I didn't check the relay because I was not thinking that the relay can go "bad" and also I could hear the pump from time to time being "more" noise then it suppose to be (at least in my opinion) before my car died. So when someone suggested that the fuel pump is gone and I could not hear the "noise" on the pump anymore I naturally assumed that the pump it's gone. So what did I do? Change it of course. I can bet any money that my "pull out is still in good working order".

I'm just thinking what would happen if the timing belt slipped or it's gone? Will the car still be able to crank?

Thanks

It will crank but not start. Search compression test.

EGR Valve could need cleaning, something similar happened to Aledelic and he said it helped when he cleaned it.

Possibly your fuel filter too, again from what I have been told.

DOC

I should have my Engine Light ON if it was the timing belt? Right? I scan it with vag and I don't have any error codes. What's was your experience? I read that you had problem with the TB, so did you had the engine light ON? Any error codes? I'm really worried right now since I DID crank my car "few" times when it stalled. Then before I changed the fuel pump. Then AFTER I changed the fuel pump... I think you know what I mean. Should I be worried that I will have to "change the engine" or buy a new car?

Thanks

Don't let what I said freak you out, I was just answering your question. I don't remember if my cel was on and I didn't scan it, so I can't say whether or not yours would be. What I did was I pulled back my timin belt cover a bit and saw that my belt was not tight, leading me to discover my problem

Does the check engine light come on when you turn the car to on?

Ecu relay is in the ECU box under the hood, for me it was relay #30. I had replaced the fuel pump, relay, ignition switch, crank sensor, and coils, only to find out it was the ECU relay. But my car would start randomly. It could be your Crank position sensor, if it never starts.

Good Catch Dallas09. I just check and NO the check engine is NOT on. Any Ideas?
I will try to post a new thread in B5 with few pictures and if you have any ideas let me know. Thanks a lot.

That basically means no power to the ECU, so check fuses relays, connections etc., otherwise from what Ive read, its either a bad chip (if you have one) or a bad ECU.

easy to check relays. look at the pin diagrams on the relay, they're numbered. the parts with the / are the switched pins, so when you put 12v across the triggering pins, you'll hear it click and now you'll have continuity across the switched pins. Use a multimeter for this or have a test light to check for this.

I took an old AC adapter to some electronic device that didn't work anymore to make my test setup for the relays for my car's starting problem from just a few days ago. That might help you isolate which relay went kaput.

Problem Solved, but new problem arises
 

Problem Solved, but now I got a new problem. I found that fuse # 32 - Engine timing 20A is burnt. What would cause the Engine timing fuse to burst? Any ideas?

it's shorting out somewhere. time to bring out the multimeter and find where it is.