Oil Pressure light, 2 weeks of driving and still going.

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Jun 2, 2010 | 07:23 PM
  #1  
My oil pressure light is coming on after the oil comes up to temp and then will go off and on intermittently on my '97 1.8. There are no knocking noises and the engine runs smooth and it's been doing this for 2 weeks now. I would think by now I would have some sort of noise from the top end. Im thinking it may just be the oil pressure sensor. Anyone want to comment?
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Jun 3, 2010 | 04:08 AM
  #2  
How has your oil level been? Sounds like the oil pressure switch to me. Mine was leeking oil out of the switch and the light would come on and go off randomly once it got hot. Oil pressure switch is like $6 or $7 at Autozone, put one in and find out. That's how I fixed mine.
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Jun 3, 2010 | 12:13 PM
  #3  
Can we get pictures of where this is on the engine? I have the same problem, but it's on all the time. I also have an oil pressure gauge installed and I'm reading normal pressure, and I've checked the oil level and it's fine.
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Jun 3, 2010 | 12:40 PM
  #4  
Mine is in a differant spot then yours since I have a 2.8, but it works the same. If you go to audizine.com and search: oil pressure switch replacement, there is a detailed how to with pictures for a 1.8T car.
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Jun 3, 2010 | 02:56 PM
  #5  
Sleepy, you have the 12v 2.8 huh? I have the 30v and wonder if the switch is in the same spot because I need to replace mine. Do you have a picture or info on where its located(obviously close to the filter) Thanks
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Jun 3, 2010 | 03:43 PM
  #6  
Yea I have the 12v but I have a buddy that has the 30v and it is in the same place. I'm gonna tell ya now it's a bitch to get to. Here is how you do it.
1. Drain your oil, and take off the oil filter.
2. Loosen the clamps on the coolant hoses that are on the oil cooler(this is what your oil filter screws on to), put a big bucket under it and disconnect the bottom coolant hose. Note that all your coolant will come spilling put in about 5 seconds. After you let it drain push it up out of the way.
3. Loosen and remove the nut that holds your oil cooler on(it's on the same shaft that your oil filter screws on to), this nut I'd thin so be careful not to round off the corners.
4. Now to get the little stubby coolant hose off. Take a pair of channel lock pliers and grab the hose and wiggle it to get it broke free. Then turn your oil cooler clockwise(might be kinda hard so I hope your strong), the line will pop off as you turn it. Note: oil and coolant will seep out of the oil cooler for a little while so put it in a bucket or on some rags.
5. Now you can get to the oil pressure switch, it's right behind the oil cooler with a rubber boot over it and a single wire plugged into it.

This is a really tight area and it's a pain in the ****, but once it's in it only take minutes to reassemble.

Make sure your new switch has a soft metal crush washer with it or it will just leak from around the threads(this should be aluminum or copper)

make sure when refilling the coolant you follow the proper bleeding procedure, believe it will save time and stress if you do it.

If you guys have any more questions just ask.
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Jun 4, 2010 | 09:01 AM
  #7  
My oil level has been fine. It hasn't dropped at all in the few changes I have done. I would just think that after driving it for this long with that light that it would not be operable.
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Jun 7, 2010 | 07:50 PM
  #8  
well after 140 miles of seafoam in the crankcase the oil light if off and hasn't come back on in 3 days. I hope this is the end of that damn light!
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Jun 17, 2010 | 11:22 PM
  #9  
How is your turbo spool with the Seafoam in the crank case? Are you supposed to drive that long with Seafoam inside?
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Jun 18, 2010 | 08:38 AM
  #10  
Well I am up to 326 miles with it in and turbo spool is normal and still no light now for 200 miles. Going to change the oil this weekend and hope that everything is good to go now!
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