I have a 98 aeb I've smoke tested my lines and replaced my diverter valve with a upgraded one from krautoparts, replaced the cracked dipstick tube, and fuel filter. All I can think is I either have bad injectors or fpr hopefully not my fuel pump. I was concidering the 4 bar unit from ecs tuning. Any input or constructive criticism is greatly appreciated.

Also after I installed my apr snub mount and the dipstick tube (not that anything is related) after I put everything back together there is a rattling coming from my valvetrain, starting with the basics checked oil level ( perfect no loss in oil after 1500 miles on amsoil 5w40 euro formula synthetic. I just rolled over 120k and thew timing was done at 100k the ralling is only at idle as soon as any raise in rpms it goes away so I'm hoping it isn't my oil pump but it is sounding more and more like a pressure problem.

thank you in advance.

 

sounds like a vacuum leak i had a small one ones and i found it on the back of the engine and ones the waste gate actuator was broken and air was going in making it lean or maybe a check valve is staying open.

as for the rattle all audis rattle at idle and comes from the head its normal mine was doing that and when i rebuild the engine it stop then came back after 2k miles its normal ignore it unless its stupid loud or u notice something wrong.

 

do you have a boost gauge? what are you reading at idle when warm?

 

my boost gauge is reading -19.5 when warm. - 14 to -16 when cold and my idle fluctuates rapidly at the same time. when my check engine light is on there is no idle problem. the rattle has me thinking sludge or something because of the severity and rhythm. any recomendations on sludge treatment or anything? im working on trying to figure out how to post a video of the idle and said rattle for a better understanding.

 

Have you cleaned your MAF?
Checked plugs?
Pressure tested the system to see where leak might be?
Also vac test it as well. Vac pump from autozone is like 35 bucks

 

It's probably your cam chain tensioner. It's not uncommon for them to get noisy and produce a rattling/tapping sound at idle.

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Jason

 

new plugs and cleaned the maf. the p1136 is the only code i have. i plan on ordering new check valves and and new lines. i picked up a complete gasket set from ecs the day after i bought the car in august. if my valve cover is leaking i can swap my tensioner while im in there. thank you guys again and i will update soon.

 

Ok so after installing a new chain tensioner, valve cover gaskets, and new injectors my idle has smoothed out greatly. The code still keeps coming up so I'm looking into new check valves and the lines on my boost gauge just in case. I plan on swapping all of that tomorrow after work.

 

anyone have any thoughts on a 4 bar fpr from ecs tuning?