read the replies

http://forums.audiworld.com/30vv6/msgs/3782.phtml

 

Before digging into the O2 you might want to trouble shoot the MAF a bit more.

I had some similar codes detailed in this thread.

If you log the MAF at idle and at WOT you might be able to see if its your MAF and not the O2.

At Idle, group 002 should be around 3-5 g/s

At WOT, group 002 should be around 80% of max HP for the 2.8 that is 155 ish.

Also check your trim values at group032 to see what they are showing.

 

will do this today, but one newbie question whats a WOT [&:]???
Will try to post results here soon...
--d3

 

WOT == wide open throttle!

 

Here are the screenshots of the idle and wot. Today for the first time i had bad idle RPM's also, it was around 2000RPM. I turned off the car for 20 minutes and then started it to see that the idle was back to normal? Maybe this was caused by MAF, not sure???
Apart for this i found out that my car temp gauge was all the way to C (cold) after driving for 15 minutes on the highway. I tunred off the heater and the gauge slowly started going back to middle. I turn back the heater on and it starts going to C....WTF!!! Do i now have a bad temp sensor also?
Thanks for the help...

--d3

[IMG]local://upfiles/33949/238783F6FF0B42CA8657BC5DECE7F536.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]local://upfiles/33949/80C1F35B475A4AD6BA98C0ECB8E2105C.jpg[/IMG]

 

lol 02 sensors are easy to change lol. ya it could be temp sensor. now that is more of a pita than 02 sensor. you gotta make a homemade hook to do it easier lol. i could do both things for you in like 30 min but you live in GA lol

 

Well at least now you know that it isn't your MAF! Even if I was the only one that thought it might be.

I think I lead you astray slightly (sorry about that), the WOT logging probably should have been done on the road in like 2nd or 3rd gear or something not pegging your red line while you're in your driveway. This is where I got the info for that suggestion in the first place.

http://wiki.ross-tech.com/index.php/Fuel_Trim_Info

 

well i didnt have anyone with me to take screenshots, so i did it in my garage lol. The only thing that looks wierd to me is my B1S1, which is showing 0.0 at both idle and wot. I hope its just the O2 sensor which is gone. I check my mpg and now i am getting 12.5 lol.
As for the temp sensor, my friend with A6 has the same problem and he was told my the dealership thatits best to change sensor when doing timing belt. I guess since i am getting mine done, i will have that sensor changed too. Will let you know how stuff goes.

--d3

 

Well got my TB and other stuff done, but codes not coming back up so dealership couldnt diagnose if i had bad o2 or maf. I guess i will have to wait for check engine to pop back up before i can do anything. Btw kendall why is my B1S1 o2 sensor reading 0.0? Shouldnt it be reading something?

--d3

 

d3, I dunno why B1S1 is 0.0 at idle, they zero out when you clear your codes, but they also start readjusting right away. B2S1 is only at 0.8%, so 0.0 isn't a totally unrealistic number, even if it suspicious. What your group 032 readings are showing is that the error isn't at idle, it's across the board (multiplicative), and its trying to lean out your system by 20%, i think anything more than 10% throws a code. I haven't had my audi for that long so I don't have a whole lot more to add. Could be your O2 sensors are shot, but it's a little bit fishy that everything is so symetrical. It seems more realistic that one would be off further than the other. A faulty coolant temperature sensor if it were reading very low, would cause your ECU to make the engine very rich like at start up in the cold, even though that's not needed. And then the O2 sensors would report back that the mixture is far to rich and try and trim out the error. Seems like you should be able to look at the coolant temperature sensor output and see if it was way off with vag-com. Some thing totally unreasonable like -30C or something. If that checks out I'd vote for changing the O2 sensors out since they tend to go bad with miles. Or change out the coolant temperature sensor anyway because they tend to go bad and it's cheap.