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'03 1.8T...Overheating, no heat, and Coolant Temp Sensor...

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Old Nov 12, 2008 | 09:11 AM
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Default '03 1.8T...Overheating, no heat, and Coolant Temp Sensor...

First off, I just joined today. I have been creeping around the forums, watching you, for a few months now. Decided it was time to join. Sold my E36 M3 to get my wife an A4. The car was in good shape when we got it a year ago..(40k miles). So, I figured it would be in great condition.

Anyways, I've got a problem with it now that I need help diagnosing. First off, I noticed a code when I drove it the other day (wife didn't know what that light was for). Scanned it and found out that it was for a bad coolant temp sensor. No big deal, I went the stealership and picked one up. Come to find out that the thing is located in an almost impossible spot to get to. So, I put it off.

So now that it is getting cold, my wife tells me that the A4 has no heat. So, I hoped for low coolant level. Anyway, coolant looks fine so I tell her to be easy on it and monitor the car till this weekend....of course it did not make it till then. She said when she got to work, the car was smoking (minor). Now, since there is no accurate readout (coolant temp sensor bad), I can't be sure if it was overheating.

First off, I need to replace the temp sensor to further diagnose (safely) what is going on. So, that is my first problem...anyone know a good way to take this coolant temp sensor out? I tried for about 1.5 hours last night and gave up. I cant get the clip off. Can I just pull it right out, then take the electrical connection off?

Looks like the next steps will be coolant flush and thermostat replacement.....
 
Old Nov 12, 2008 | 11:38 AM
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Well I hope I may be able to help here. I had the exact same symptoms at 53,000mi and I can tell you with some certainty that it is the water pump that has failed. The impeller is plastic and are prone to breaking up into pieces. Your car is not heating(heater core) because the coolant is not cycling. The car should not be driven as you can probably agree that without the coolant cycling you run a very high risk of further damaging the engine(overheating your car is extremely bad for the engine). I would address this before you continue to drive vehicle. Also it is now going to be a good time to do the timing belt, t-belt tensioner and pulleys. I know you can get the job done between 700-1500 dollars through dealership (try vw my friend had all this done for $650 through vw audi wanted $1200). Depends on how well you can haggle or you can do all this yourself with the right tools and about 350 dollars in replacement parts. Good luck if you have anymore questions post it up man. Hope this helps.
 

Last edited by krystallbluea4; Nov 12, 2008 at 11:48 AM.
Old Nov 12, 2008 | 02:41 PM
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I am going to replace the temp sensor this afternoon, then starting taking off hoses and drain the coolant. Hopefully, I will be able to have enough room to remove the timing belt and water pump. I am assuming that the water pump on this car is Timing belt driven.....

The only thing I don't like about Audi is the lack of room that they provide in the motor....

Any tips on getting the coolant temp sensor out....
 
Old Nov 12, 2008 | 03:58 PM
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Not to dowse your hopes but I would take a step back for a minute. Yes the water pump is driven off the timing belt. as far as the room to work I think you'll find it probably as close to impossible as you can get w/out removing the front end of your car...bumper, headlights, radiator cooling fans etc... Do you have the Bentley repair manual? If not I wouldn't begin to attempt this procedure. This is a pretty involved operation. I doubt that replacing the coolant tempsensor is going to do anything to remedy the problems you are having although I understand the thought processs behind it; least expensive and least involved and then work your way up. In an effort to save you some time my money is on the water pump impeller being in 2-3 pieces sitting in the bottom of your pump housing search the threads on this site and others www.audizine.com, www.audigeeks.com and www.vwvortex.com. I spent several days researching this when it happened to me and it seems to be somewhat common. The descriptions you provided, as I'm sure others on this forum will attest, point to water pump failure. Its a relatively involved repair and without a repair manual or expert help I wouldn't attempt it. You could very well end up getting it all back together, doesn't run properly(engine timing) and spend just as much to have the improper repair repaired as you would have spent to have someone else do it. I say this without knowing your level of expertise concerning your vehicle obviously. Just a word to the wise, if you are not familiar with such a repair do not attempt it without proper tools and guidance i.e. manual and or someone who has done this type of repair to the AMB 1.8t motor.
 

Last edited by krystallbluea4; Nov 12, 2008 at 04:04 PM.
Old Nov 12, 2008 | 04:06 PM
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You are aware that there are two coolant temperature sensors right? Which one are you replacing? How many miles do you have on your car? I agree with the previous poster that you probably do need a new water pump and it is an involved job. You can do it with the vehicle in service position but I prefer the space so I open the front of the car up.
 
Old Nov 12, 2008 | 06:31 PM
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yes. I know that there are two. I am replacing the one that is directly behind the motor up against the fire wall. The one that you can't really see and only have about 1" clearance. I have to replace it either way because it has gone bad (scanned the car). As far as the water pump/timing belt goes, as long as I have all of the needed tools, I can fix it. From research, it sounds like I will have to pull the whole front off to get to the pump.

It may end up being a job for someone else as I need the car back next week. Thanks for everyones info so far.
 
Old Nov 12, 2008 | 07:19 PM
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Yep front must come off. Try calling and getting quotes from different shops and then pit them against eachother for price. Call on a friday morning (usually a slow day for mechanics) and say they can have the job if they do it parts included for $700 dollars. They could eiither do the job or suck wind on a slow day and not make anything. Many shops pay the mechanic by the job not by the hour. Let me qualify myself by saying that I have worked at a couple of shops as a service writer(sales). You are not giving the mechanic a bad deal either, the entire job can be done in a few hours by a professional 33% or 50% of the 700 is what the mechanic should get so its a good day for him too. Many places will see you come in an audi and have very little concern for what your actual financial situation may be. Good luck (crzyfckup?why you name a so crazy?).
 

Last edited by krystallbluea4; Nov 12, 2008 at 07:28 PM.
Old Nov 13, 2008 | 08:43 AM
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Originally Posted by crzyfckup
yes. I know that there are two. I am replacing the one that is directly behind the motor up against the fire wall. The one that you can't really see and only have about 1" clearance. I have to replace it either way because it has gone bad (scanned the car). As far as the water pump/timing belt goes, as long as I have all of the needed tools, I can fix it. From research, it sounds like I will have to pull the whole front off to get to the pump.

It may end up being a job for someone else as I need the car back next week. Thanks for everyones info so far.
That sensor is a bitch, you just have to be patient with it. Too bad you're not in Jersey, I could have done the job for $500 parts included this weekend. Good luck
 
Old Nov 13, 2008 | 10:33 AM
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Originally Posted by akaEsCo01
That sensor is a bitch, you just have to be patient with it. Too bad you're not in Jersey, I could have done the job for $500 parts included this weekend. Good luck

Tell me about it...my hand is bruised from trying to get to it. Can I just pull the sensor out then disconnect the electrical clip?

Looks like im getting it towed to a local shop that works on these cars.....I'm pretty sure I'm gonna go ahead and do the water pump, thermostat, timing belt, tensioner, and the accessory belt as well. Then, when I get teh car back I will do the spark plugs, o2 sensor, and fuel filter.

Get this thing running good......then maybe a chip to add some torque...
 
Old Nov 13, 2008 | 11:37 AM
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Lowest price so far for everything is $1,100.....ouch.

Parts from Audi Direct cost about $450, so this is $7-800 in labor
 



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