I'm looking to add in an amp and a couple subs to my 2003 A4 1.8TQM w/ bose. Since I usually spend about $2500 to gut and replace a 2 speaker system (That was one bumping nissan pickup let me tell you), I dont even want to think about 6-disc in dash changer + Amps + Caps + 10-12 speakers + Subwoofers. So I have conceded that the Bose will be close to good enough for right now, but I want more punch. I don't feel it at 30. I want to feel the music.

So I am looking to add, at the moment just to get something in there, a Boston Acoustics G112-44 (base model 12" dual 4ohm voice coil) sub, Q-Logic box, and a Boston Acoustics GT-20 (250 watt) amp. Here is my concern, going by the tutorial here ( https://www.audiforums.com/m_318162/tm.htm ) That uses (aside from the speaker and not the subwoofer connections) line level. Line level is a deal breaker for me, and not just because no Boston amplifier has line level input. So I have poked around on that diagram and circled proposed new wires to tap into. I have 2 questions, am I correct (I want low-level, subwoofer signal), and is that the correct wiring diagram for a 2003 Audi A4 1.8T Quattro 5-spd with the Bose Symphony system, no navigation.




[IMG]local://upfiles/48142/13A5EB6A00F14C7F9EDC08FFF6381594.jpg[/IMG]

 

Secind Question, should I be using that common ground or the Right/Left Woofer Negatives (I just spotted those now) for my negative connections. They are directly to the right of the two lefthand circles. Thanks in advance all!

 

use the jl audio peice that integrates into the factory system. you can add lots of amps and have full functionality. it's like $300. definetly a nice piece of equipment. i used to install them for tweeter electronics a few years back.

 

I'm looking to go minimal cost at the moment, I have plans for upgrades down the road and its killer audio system or get some performance upgrades in the future. Girlfriend = nothing but trouble. "Save your money" she says, "Stop spending all your money on that stupid car" "You don't need to get that exhaust"

She's half the reason my car is almost bone stock.

Oh well, I just do as I'm told =P

 

Here is some DIY for the Sub install if that gonna help you.
http://a4mods.com/index.php?page=web...es/stereo.html

 

THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU!!!!!!! That was EXACTLY what I was looking for!

Of course, you have been running around the forums answering everyone's questions dead on so far so its par for the course, to be expected

Thanks again, *huge* help!

 

LOL )) No problems!!!

 

So, I am an idiot. Since it has been so long since my last amplifier install, I didn't think about it. Line level means pre-amp line not speaker level (HIGH level). Thankfully it clicked before I tapped into the wires. The initial schematic I gave was correct (minus my goofy circling) from the tutorial posted by RedGoat. It is the B6 A4 Bose Symphony schematic.

I ended up going to the local audio shop (Which doesn't carry Boston, I let them know how I felt about that), and ended up buying a Pioneer. It was one of those shops that sold you an "800 Watt Amp!!!1!11!!!" when it was a 400 watt RMS, 800 watt *peak* amp. I atleast had the sense to call the guy on that, just one more thing you have to be careful of in brick and mortar stores. Anyway, I have a 400 watt Pioneer amp, a 12 inch Pioneer Champion Series subwoofer, and a slotted box. I also just bought the wiring kit for $60 because the guy was trying to charge $2.50 a foot for 8 guage (try 25 feet for 8 bucks on crutchfield, and JL Audio branded too!!!). I did not buy one of those EMC or E2 or whatever of brand capacitors for $99, I need one, but I'll be getting a Tsunami 1.2 farad for $99 on crutchfield. Local shops wonder why their customers don't come back after they rape them. And crutchfield has free shipping on all $129 and up orders!

Same setup on crutchfield would have cost me $200+ less, and I could have gotten the capacitor.

I took the hit for the team on this one guys, now you all can buy online and not feel guilty knowing that somewhere somehow someone got the shaft at a local store for you LOL

 

As for wiring, you only need 20-25 feet of power (personal preference is dual wiring, + and - straight to the battery, which the stupid kit did not allow. This install is not finished...), 5 feet of thin single wire for your turn on, and two 5 foot pieces of speaker wire (four wires total) to run to your amp, mine came with RCA-to-bare-wire adaptors for the speaker level input. And don't forget 5 feet for speaker wire for your Subs. I got some wire taps for free.

When you get a kit you end up with an unused 18 foot RCA wire, 15+ unused feet of speaker turn on, and in my case a fuse that was too small so I had to get another. Also kits don't often come with speaker wire. 50 foot reel on crutchfield is $10. 15 feet in a brick and mortar is $10.

I *really* got boned, but it took me 45 minutes to get everything set up, taking my time and eating too, and it just worked. I haven't had a project "just work" ever. There are always phase issues, or power issues, or wiring issues. In this case its just the need of a capacitor. Which is neglegable if I keep the volume down. I'll have one by next week

Good luck and Happy Installs!