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Famous Catalytic Converters 2003 A4 Convertible 3.0

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  #11  
Old 02-28-2011, 07:16 PM
firstrakesh1's Avatar
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Originally Posted by ppgoal
You don't mention mileage, but they are warranted to 80k miles. I was one lucky sob since I found mine were bad at 79,800 and the dealer replaced them no charge.
Good one ppgoal. I ain't that lucky :-) got 105K.

Does anyone know how to correct the thresholds?
 
  #12  
Old 02-28-2011, 08:16 PM
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You can't change the thresholds, but chip companies can make it so the ECU ignores the O2 sensors, they do it for turbo cars all the time. (not legal, but who's gonna know right?)
I would call 034motorsport, as they have a chip for the 3.0L engine, you will have to ask them if it actually makes the ECU ignore the rear O2's or not.

P.S. Other audi models had the same problem that needed a reflash at the dealer to correct the sensitive nature of the O2 sensors, the 3.0L is the only engine they didn't make a flash for.
 
  #13  
Old 03-01-2011, 11:40 AM
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Originally Posted by firstrakesh1
Thank you Shaundh.

I have the ebay Vag-com hardware and I'm using the VCDS-lite shareware version. need to register/activate it I guess so I can access the cat testing. Usually after 50 miles local and highway, the readiness tests are all green/passed in vcds, and than after a few miles I get the CEL with the P0431.

As far as power - it depends. sometime it pulls very nicely sometimes is sluggish and the response to the throttle is not that fast. I revved the engine in neutral to max (gas pedal to the floor) and it didn't go beyond 7K RPMs. Not sure if it's supposed to go beyond that given that the RPMS end at 8K.
When you do the Cat readiness test with the break and throttle pedals depressed simultaneously, do you have the transmittion in P, N, or D?
Neutral
 
  #14  
Old 04-11-2011, 02:28 PM
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Default Finally - Issue resolved

OK - For all the 3.0s, my code was being triggered by the vacuum line that goes from the fuel pressure valve on top of the engine (US driver's side) that connects with one of the solenoid valves underneath the plate near the exhaust manifold. The line looked fine, but for some reason was leaking causing the fuel mixture to be excessively rich for the O2s. I replaced it as well as the rest of the vacuum lines in the back of the engine (underneath the plate) and the code is gone. Be careful if you are replacing all of them because there's a breather tube attached to the plate of the vac. lines. This is the breather tube that comes out of the pass. side valve cover. It's about $130 if you breake it and the **** is very fragile. Broke mine, but replaced with a/c rubber hose at pepboys. Working fine now...Getting ready for inspection.
 
  #15  
Old 05-26-2014, 12:00 PM
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Originally Posted by ppgoal
You don't mention mileage, but they are warranted to 80k miles. I was one lucky sob since I found mine were bad at 79,800 and the dealer replaced them no charge.
A4 3.0 2003. Is cat converter warranty for no charge replacement limited just to 80K mileage, or it is also subject to vehicle's age, i.e. limited to 8 years?

Thanks!

intdevco
 
  #16  
Old 05-27-2014, 09:21 AM
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A4 3.0 was definitely limited to 80k but I do not recall if there was an age constraint. This was about 4-5 years ago. It may be 10 years -- you'll need to check with a dealer.
 
  #17  
Old 05-28-2014, 10:20 AM
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Default intdevco

Thanks for your response.

I called Audi dealer in Arlington, VA who confirmed that cat converter free of charge replacement is limited to car age not exceeding 8 years and cautioned that it could be costly since it is a very labor intensive job, especially with older A4.

The dealer declined to quote even the price idea saying that he could quote only after performing their own diagnostics which would cost some $135. I do not know how much cat converter replacement would cost but assume it could be in the area of $2K.
Does anybody have cat converter replacement by dealer experience? Is it feasible and what would it take to replace it by "doing-yourself"?

Thanks.

intdevco
 
  #18  
Old 05-28-2014, 03:21 PM
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I had a Billy Boat kit installed (I think the kit was close to $2k, but it included downpipes), plus another $450 for new O2 sensors, plus $480 labor. Then I spent another $100+ to install bungs because of the CELs. Nothing helped. I still have the two cat CELs and could have saved myself almost $3k by putting a piece of black tape over the CEL. That is my current, successful fix. Of course, Michigan does not have emissions tests.
 
  #19  
Old 05-29-2014, 08:14 AM
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Default Didn't need CATs

back in 2011 I thought I needed new CATs. I ended up replacing the oxygen sensors; all four of them at different times. Then I did the adaptation or whatever the process iscalled to reset the system using VAGCOM. My codes went away and I'm still passing emissions with the original CATS. I have 229k miles on my 3.0.
I got the front 02 sensors cheap online but the were OEM (Amazon I believe) and the rear O2 sensors are generic. I had to splice those in but they work fine. Those were really cheap, like $50. Just need to make sure they have the right # of wires.

You may want to try this 1st before replacing the CATS. It may not be necessary.
Originally Posted by intdevco
Thanks for your response.

I called Audi dealer in Arlington, VA who confirmed that cat converter free of charge replacement is limited to car age not exceeding 8 years and cautioned that it could be costly since it is a very labor intensive job, especially with older A4.

The dealer declined to quote even the price idea saying that he could quote only after performing their own diagnostics which would cost some $135. I do not know how much cat converter replacement would cost but assume it could be in the area of $2K.
Does anybody have cat converter replacement by dealer experience? Is it feasible and what would it take to replace it by "doing-yourself"?

Thanks.

intdevco
 
  #20  
Old 05-30-2014, 09:45 AM
intdevco's Avatar
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Dear shaundh,

Many thanks for your encouraging response.

Yes, it is a good idea to try replacing the O2 sensors first before getting into an expensive cat replacement job. My A$ is just 78K miles, I believe its worth efforts.
BTW, could you elaborate on the "resetting the system using VAGCOM"? I have never done that before. How does it work and what kind of tools/guidance do you need for that?
Again, I appreciate your sharing of experience.

Best,

intdevco
 
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