No heat please help asap!
#11
02-22-2013, 03:42 PM
All good comments above. My original question about timing belt and water pump was because those are usually always done together. At 98k I would guess it has not been done unless the previous owner specifically said it was. I was in the same boat with mine. Bought at 89k and no paperwork to show it had been done.
As far as the coolant flange my guess is you will find it to be leaking. They are really a common problem. I did mine two years ago and had to do it again this past spring. Granted that was 45k miles but still. Check ECS tuning. I just saw a coolant flange kit that includes the G12 coolant for audi/vw. That's the special pink stuff. With the system not being sealed up it will not pressurize properly and that alone can give you bad flow and lack of heat. Add that to an aged waterpump and you get minimal heat.
I just went through all of this just recently. Spent an entire weekend trying to diagnose a lack of heat. flushed heater core, back filled heater core to make sure it was filled. I'm getting some heat, but just not enough flow through the system to keep up with single digit temps. Unfortunately there really isn't a good waterpump test, just solid diagnosis.
So I'm waiting for a chance to tackle my timing belt and water pump job as it is due for it anyway.
A good kit from ECS or Blauparts will run you about $220-$260. Blauparts just had a nice sale this past weekend. If your mechanic will let you bring him the parts you might be able to get it done for $400-$700 in labor as it is a tedious procedure. My local shop lets me bring my parts and he works for cash and gives me a deal. Maybe you can do the same. Can't hurt to ask.
Keep us posted!
As far as the coolant flange my guess is you will find it to be leaking. They are really a common problem. I did mine two years ago and had to do it again this past spring. Granted that was 45k miles but still. Check ECS tuning. I just saw a coolant flange kit that includes the G12 coolant for audi/vw. That's the special pink stuff. With the system not being sealed up it will not pressurize properly and that alone can give you bad flow and lack of heat. Add that to an aged waterpump and you get minimal heat.
I just went through all of this just recently. Spent an entire weekend trying to diagnose a lack of heat. flushed heater core, back filled heater core to make sure it was filled. I'm getting some heat, but just not enough flow through the system to keep up with single digit temps. Unfortunately there really isn't a good waterpump test, just solid diagnosis.
So I'm waiting for a chance to tackle my timing belt and water pump job as it is due for it anyway.
A good kit from ECS or Blauparts will run you about $220-$260. Blauparts just had a nice sale this past weekend. If your mechanic will let you bring him the parts you might be able to get it done for $400-$700 in labor as it is a tedious procedure. My local shop lets me bring my parts and he works for cash and gives me a deal. Maybe you can do the same. Can't hurt to ask.
Keep us posted!
#12
02-22-2013, 04:48 PM
My timing belt is due and I let the system freeze a little as my coolant was a little thin once it warmed up and I tested it. So she is sitting for another week until I get it in the garage and dig in.
If the new water pump and a good flush doesn't do the trick I may have to go the auxilary route.
Keep up the good fight!
#14
02-25-2013, 02:49 PM
I'm going to say its your rear coolant flange. If you have been loosing coolant this is the most common place for it to leak.
The reason you are not getting heat is because there is air trapped in your cooling system. You need to loosen the bleeder screw while your car heats up thus pushing out all the air. Once you bleed the system refill with coolant as needed.
The best way to spot a bad rear coolant flange is to look for dried coolant on the the top of the bell housing back by the fire wall. You might even catch some pooling up.
My car is currently experiencing the same issue, loss of heat, disappearing coolant, and coolant pooling on the transmission bell housing.
The kit is rather inexpensive and we offer a PDF on how to do it, check it out below!
Click HERE.
Coolant Flange PDF <------ Click!
I hope this helps!
Jason
The reason you are not getting heat is because there is air trapped in your cooling system. You need to loosen the bleeder screw while your car heats up thus pushing out all the air. Once you bleed the system refill with coolant as needed.
The best way to spot a bad rear coolant flange is to look for dried coolant on the the top of the bell housing back by the fire wall. You might even catch some pooling up.
My car is currently experiencing the same issue, loss of heat, disappearing coolant, and coolant pooling on the transmission bell housing.
The kit is rather inexpensive and we offer a PDF on how to do it, check it out below!
Click HERE.
Coolant Flange PDF <------ Click!
I hope this helps!
Jason
#15
10-24-2013, 10:26 PM
My new heater core from ECS just got here today so that is the weekend project along with new brakes. I'll let you know how the heater core goes and how much more heat I have.
I'll take some pics along the way and do a little write up as I haven't found one yet for the heater core job.
Unless someone knows where one is???
I'll take some pics along the way and do a little write up as I haven't found one yet for the heater core job.
Unless someone knows where one is???
#16
10-25-2013, 11:32 AM
My new heater core from ECS just got here today so that is the weekend project along with new brakes. I'll let you know how the heater core goes and how much more heat I have.
I'll take some pics along the way and do a little write up as I haven't found one yet for the heater core job.
Unless someone knows where one is???
I'll take some pics along the way and do a little write up as I haven't found one yet for the heater core job.
Unless someone knows where one is???
Click HERE
Jason
#19
11-04-2013, 12:48 PM
And then there was heat!
About three hours total, being very careful to not spill the excess all over the passenger compartment. Left the covers off for now so I can confirm no leaks going forward.
Not a very difficult job, just tedious and contortionist worthy. I found enough space to tuck some plastic sheeting under the heater core housing and drape it all down the driver side footwell. Glad I did as there was a significant amount of coolant still in the core and lines even after siphoning off what I could from the outside.
Just remember to take the time to burb the system properly. Took nearly an hour to burp it, drive it, burb it again and now I have more heat than I need by far.
And of course, one fix leads to another. Took off the knee bolster and found some cobbled wiring and a toggle switch tucked up in there. I'll start a new thread with some pictures after I trace the wiring a little more.
About three hours total, being very careful to not spill the excess all over the passenger compartment. Left the covers off for now so I can confirm no leaks going forward.
Not a very difficult job, just tedious and contortionist worthy. I found enough space to tuck some plastic sheeting under the heater core housing and drape it all down the driver side footwell. Glad I did as there was a significant amount of coolant still in the core and lines even after siphoning off what I could from the outside.
Just remember to take the time to burb the system properly. Took nearly an hour to burp it, drive it, burb it again and now I have more heat than I need by far.
And of course, one fix leads to another. Took off the knee bolster and found some cobbled wiring and a toggle switch tucked up in there. I'll start a new thread with some pictures after I trace the wiring a little more.
#20
11-07-2013, 12:14 PM
I'm no guru but to me it makes logical sense to list the following as your problem.
- Thermostat (VERY likely)
- Water pump (likely seeing as how the heat stops when you let off gas)
- BOTH
- Head gasket but doubtful. Check your oil and if you can smell any kind of SWEET burning smell then yes, the head gasket is leaking. I all you smell is a normal "hot oil" smell then the HG is fine.
My temp gauge doesn't reach 90 in the winter no matter how long I idle it to warm it up. Once I'm on the road it reaches 90 in about 5 mins. I know it's my thermostat.
- Thermostat (VERY likely)
- Water pump (likely seeing as how the heat stops when you let off gas)
- BOTH
- Head gasket but doubtful. Check your oil and if you can smell any kind of SWEET burning smell then yes, the head gasket is leaking. I all you smell is a normal "hot oil" smell then the HG is fine.
My temp gauge doesn't reach 90 in the winter no matter how long I idle it to warm it up. Once I'm on the road it reaches 90 in about 5 mins. I know it's my thermostat.
