Under The Hood
#1
08-12-2008, 06:27 PM
Under The Hood
I have a stock Audi TT and was woundering how to clean under the hood to make it look brand new...it is all stock and is pretty good shape already but just want that extra touch....It looks mainly plastic can i just pressure wash it with low pressure or garden hose or what??
#2
08-13-2008, 11:45 AM
I use a garden hose on a high pressure 'jet' setting, several different sized brushes, and a bottle of simple green. Just make sure you cover the alternator and any obvious electrical components or connections. Engine bays are for the most part watertight, so unless you're really pounding a concentrated stream of water on these connections then you should be alright.
I usually dry with a leaf blower, and I also recommend a can of CD2 engine detailer to give everything a nice shine and protect against future dirt buildup.
I usually dry with a leaf blower, and I also recommend a can of CD2 engine detailer to give everything a nice shine and protect against future dirt buildup.
Last edited by jokeabus; 08-13-2008 at 11:48 AM.
#3
08-14-2008, 10:29 AM
https://www.audiforums.com/forum/sho...d.php?t=109314
You really don't need to use a garden hose. Just use paper towels, armorall, q tips, and put some time in it and your good.
You really don't need to use a garden hose. Just use paper towels, armorall, q tips, and put some time in it and your good.
#4
08-15-2008, 10:27 PM
2nd Gear
Join Date: May 2008
Location: St. Charles MO, on youtube: GERMANPOWER90.
Posts: 1,079
I use soap and water after i get done washing the car and wheels. I have a various assortment of brushes but the most usefull one is a 4 inch painbrush that does not have ant metal on it. I use some mild degreaser from state chemical to get off heavy stuff. Then i put some Good stuff protectant (kinda like armorall) on and dry it back off. I also wax the paint under the hood but i am **** so thats that. This is my recomendation, look at my engine... After all I am a professionall detailer.
Take care, Matt.
Take care, Matt.
#5
08-21-2008, 08:32 PM
i work at a garage thats also offers detailing and we use low pressure compressed stream of water and Zep Pink soap just wet it spray it with the soap from a spray bottle then pressure it off and dry with compressed air. and if it has a ton of black plastic use that No Touch tire shine stuff on it and it will look like new.
#6
08-24-2008, 12:21 AM
i use windex and just spray it on a paper towel wipe it down then get a thick rag and spray on "turtle wax Nano-Tech speed wax" or just any spray wax and whipe all the plastics down as well as the hoses because unlike armorall wipes it doesn't strip anything off of the hoses or anything so it won't dry-rot it but, actualy condition it.
#9
08-25-2008, 11:56 PM
OOPS! water!
I used car soap, Simple Green, a scrub brush, some time with wash mitts and hosed it all down with a medium stream from the garden hose. The result? It all looked great but later I had misfires and it was determined that I took out 5 coil packs!!
I'm under warranty so they were all replaced at N/C to me. What are the rest fo you doing so you don't wind up like me?
I'm under warranty so they were all replaced at N/C to me. What are the rest fo you doing so you don't wind up like me?
#10
08-30-2008, 04:22 AM
Engine bay detailing:
I would recommend wearing a pair of latex cloves while working on the engine compartment. Road grime, tar and grease are very difficult to remove from underneath your fingernails. Outside of the garage your hands shouldn't look like you need lessons in personal grooming. Dura-Grip Brand, 8 mil Latex; powder free contour fit, with fully textured fingers and palms - Eppco Enterprises, Inc. - http://www.eppco.net/duragrip.html I would recommend wearing a pair of latex cloves while working on the engine compartment. Road grime, tar and grease are very difficult to remove from underneath your fingernails. Outside of the garage your hands shouldn't look like you need lessons in personal grooming
Do not use a solvent based product for engine compartment detailing as solvents have a low flash point and could start a flash fire in the engine, solvents also deteriorates and expands rubber, which may have a detrimental effect on belts and hoses.
You need to cover various parts prior to using any cleaning products, sprays or water. These include the:
•Alternator
•Alarm Housing
•Intercooler
•Battery terminals (if not covered already)
•Induction kit cone (if you have one)
• Coil packs
Tin foil is a better alternative to using cling-film for the alternator, alarm housing etc as it is easier to mould and has greater protection properties. I suggest you use a plastic bag for the induction kit and just wrap it tight over the end to stop any water ingress.
Note: See the warning about this plastic bag further on*
For the intercooler the best way to cover is to get a flat sheet of cardboard and just cut it to size so it fits and covers the fins. Cardboard will normally protect the fins for the duration of the washing. It will get soaked so discard after the wash.
Cleaning Methodology:
•Remove any excess debris, leaves and etc from the hood, grille or air-vent openings
•Spray electrical connectors with WD40 which repels moisture / water (avoid spraying on belts)
•Use cling-film or Saran wrap elastic covers to cover any sensors, electrical black boxes, electrical devises that could cause an electrical short-circuits if subjected to water spray.
•This will not guarantee that you won’t cause a problem when cleaning an engine bay but it will greatly reduce the risks.
•Start and run the engine to get it warm, not hot, this will enable the de-greaser to work more efficiently on a warm surface.
•Apply an engine de-greaser (Autoglym Engine Cleaner) or an all purpose cleaner (APC) without butyl cellosolve, Omni APC 10:1 concentrate – http//:www.autoint.com a light engine cleaning, or a solvent free, water based cleaner (Simple Green® Aircraft & Precision Cleaner) - http://industrial.simplegreen.com/ind_prod_ext_mor.php by lightly spraying the lower parts of the engine first and then working upwards.
•Enable the cleaner to work by allowing dwell time (but do not allow to completely dry) or to remain on painted surfaces, and be sure to dilute with water before drying with a cloth.
•For heavily soiled areas agitate with a nylon engine cleaning brush and a diluted citrus-based cleaner (P21S® Total Auto Wash)
•When the grease and grime is dissolved and you're ready to remove it, spray with a light (garden type) pressure water hose.
•To shine aluminium engine block / parts use # 0000 synthetic bronze wool - http://www.briwax-online.com/sswool2.html and a metal polish, English Custom Polishing - http://www.englishcustompolishing.co...lrestorer.html
•Use the blower side of a vacuum (avoid area that may be sensitive to a forced air flow) or allow the engine compartment to air dry and then thoroughly wipe down all accessible surfaces and then remove cling-film or aluminium foil.
•When everything is dry apply a vinyl/rubber protectant to hoses, shields and wires, and wipe engine parts with CD2 Engine Detailer or 303 Aerospace Protectarant
•Wipe off any excess with a clean cloth and apply a wax/sealant protection to painted surfaces.
Note- Apply a vinyl dressing to hoses etc (no diethyl silicone fluid based dressings (DS) should be applied in the engine compartment. Use only water based polydimethalsiloxane (PDS) dressings and do not directly spray on to engine parts, spray a cloth and wipe contains no Clean Air Act Hazardous Air Pollutants (HAP) nor is it a RCRA hazardous waste in and of itself when disposed.
Engine Compartment Steam Cleaning / Power Washing:
Most engines are rarely so encrusted with automotive residues and dirt that normal, low-pressure degreasing methods fail to provide proper, efficient cleaning. High-pressure engine water / steam cleaning are unnecessary and should be restricted to extreme cleaning jobs, such as commercial trucks, off-road vehicles, etc.
The engine compartment is deigned to resist water ingress, it is not waterproof / watertight. Rain or water splashed up into the engine is at very low pressure, very different from a pressurised hose or steam
High-pressure steam cleaning can force solutions into the engine harness sheath and associated cables, causing unusual problems that would not have occurred otherwise. Once steam is applied to a cold metal surface it condenses and becomes water that may be in a place that it cannot be easily removed from.
Modern vehicle engine harness multi-plugs and related sealing measures are not designed for the discharge velocity and force of typical commercial steam cleaning units. Further, cleaning solutions with the high-pressure discharge can leave conductive and often corrosive residues deep within the harness and cables.
Most engines are rarely so encrusted with automotive residues and dirt that normal, low-pressure degreasing methods fail to provide proper, efficient cleaning. High-pressure engine water / steam cleaning are unnecessary and should be restricted to extreme cleaning jobs, such as commercial trucks, off-road vehicles, etc.
Disclaimer: The information contained herein is believed to be true and accurate; however we make no guarantees concerning the veracity of any statement. Use of any information on this page is at the reader's own risk. The detailing methods set out here have been adapted for special use and may not be the same as those recommended by the product manufacturer, and you may experience different results from those stated. When in doubt always use common sense.
Do not use a solvent based product for engine compartment detailing as solvents have a low flash point and could start a flash fire in the engine, solvents also deteriorates and expands rubber, which may have a detrimental effect on belts and hoses.
You need to cover various parts prior to using any cleaning products, sprays or water. These include the:
•Alternator
•Alarm Housing
•Intercooler
•Battery terminals (if not covered already)
•Induction kit cone (if you have one)
• Coil packs
Tin foil is a better alternative to using cling-film for the alternator, alarm housing etc as it is easier to mould and has greater protection properties. I suggest you use a plastic bag for the induction kit and just wrap it tight over the end to stop any water ingress.
Note: See the warning about this plastic bag further on*
For the intercooler the best way to cover is to get a flat sheet of cardboard and just cut it to size so it fits and covers the fins. Cardboard will normally protect the fins for the duration of the washing. It will get soaked so discard after the wash.
Cleaning Methodology:
•Remove any excess debris, leaves and etc from the hood, grille or air-vent openings
•Spray electrical connectors with WD40 which repels moisture / water (avoid spraying on belts)
•Use cling-film or Saran wrap elastic covers to cover any sensors, electrical black boxes, electrical devises that could cause an electrical short-circuits if subjected to water spray.
•This will not guarantee that you won’t cause a problem when cleaning an engine bay but it will greatly reduce the risks.
•Start and run the engine to get it warm, not hot, this will enable the de-greaser to work more efficiently on a warm surface.
•Apply an engine de-greaser (Autoglym Engine Cleaner) or an all purpose cleaner (APC) without butyl cellosolve, Omni APC 10:1 concentrate – http//:www.autoint.com a light engine cleaning, or a solvent free, water based cleaner (Simple Green® Aircraft & Precision Cleaner) - http://industrial.simplegreen.com/ind_prod_ext_mor.php by lightly spraying the lower parts of the engine first and then working upwards.
•Enable the cleaner to work by allowing dwell time (but do not allow to completely dry) or to remain on painted surfaces, and be sure to dilute with water before drying with a cloth.
•For heavily soiled areas agitate with a nylon engine cleaning brush and a diluted citrus-based cleaner (P21S® Total Auto Wash)
•When the grease and grime is dissolved and you're ready to remove it, spray with a light (garden type) pressure water hose.
•To shine aluminium engine block / parts use # 0000 synthetic bronze wool - http://www.briwax-online.com/sswool2.html and a metal polish, English Custom Polishing - http://www.englishcustompolishing.co...lrestorer.html
•Use the blower side of a vacuum (avoid area that may be sensitive to a forced air flow) or allow the engine compartment to air dry and then thoroughly wipe down all accessible surfaces and then remove cling-film or aluminium foil.
•When everything is dry apply a vinyl/rubber protectant to hoses, shields and wires, and wipe engine parts with CD2 Engine Detailer or 303 Aerospace Protectarant
•Wipe off any excess with a clean cloth and apply a wax/sealant protection to painted surfaces.
Note- Apply a vinyl dressing to hoses etc (no diethyl silicone fluid based dressings (DS) should be applied in the engine compartment. Use only water based polydimethalsiloxane (PDS) dressings and do not directly spray on to engine parts, spray a cloth and wipe contains no Clean Air Act Hazardous Air Pollutants (HAP) nor is it a RCRA hazardous waste in and of itself when disposed.
Engine Compartment Steam Cleaning / Power Washing:
Most engines are rarely so encrusted with automotive residues and dirt that normal, low-pressure degreasing methods fail to provide proper, efficient cleaning. High-pressure engine water / steam cleaning are unnecessary and should be restricted to extreme cleaning jobs, such as commercial trucks, off-road vehicles, etc.
The engine compartment is deigned to resist water ingress, it is not waterproof / watertight. Rain or water splashed up into the engine is at very low pressure, very different from a pressurised hose or steam
High-pressure steam cleaning can force solutions into the engine harness sheath and associated cables, causing unusual problems that would not have occurred otherwise. Once steam is applied to a cold metal surface it condenses and becomes water that may be in a place that it cannot be easily removed from.
Modern vehicle engine harness multi-plugs and related sealing measures are not designed for the discharge velocity and force of typical commercial steam cleaning units. Further, cleaning solutions with the high-pressure discharge can leave conductive and often corrosive residues deep within the harness and cables.
Most engines are rarely so encrusted with automotive residues and dirt that normal, low-pressure degreasing methods fail to provide proper, efficient cleaning. High-pressure engine water / steam cleaning are unnecessary and should be restricted to extreme cleaning jobs, such as commercial trucks, off-road vehicles, etc.
Disclaimer: The information contained herein is believed to be true and accurate; however we make no guarantees concerning the veracity of any statement. Use of any information on this page is at the reader's own risk. The detailing methods set out here have been adapted for special use and may not be the same as those recommended by the product manufacturer, and you may experience different results from those stated. When in doubt always use common sense.
