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Help! My Audi A3 won't start anymore - Fuse issue...?

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Help! My Audi A3 won't start anymore - Fuse issue...?

Old 05-11-2017, 02:30 PM
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Join Date: May 2017
Posts: 2
Default Help! My Audi A3 won't start anymore - Fuse issue...?

I have an 2007 Audi A3 that now won't start. Originally I was just trying to solve the problem of the horn not working, so I checked the fuse box located under the hood. I located the F5 fuse location for the horn and inspected the blue 15 AMP fuse. All looked good, but just to test I removed another 15 AMP fuse and inserted it in the F5 horn fuse location. The horn still did not work so I placed the 15 AMP fuse that I pulled for testing purposes back into the slot where I thought I originally had removed it from. The next day I went to start the car and it wouldn't turn on or turn over.

So I went back and inspected the fuses and discovered I had place the 15 AMP fuse that I pulled into the F27 slot which is suppose to be blank instead of the F28 slot for the Motor Module. I thought I could simply move the fuse over to the proper location and all would be solved, but that wasn't the case. When moving the fuse back to the proper location there was a slight spark and the car still did not turn over and start. I inspected the fuse to see if it blew, but all looked good and is still all intact. Now I'm stumped to how why the car will not start.

Any suggestions? Did I some how short out or break a circuit by inserting a fuse into the wrong slot?
Old 05-12-2017, 02:40 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2016
Posts: 37

For future reference, it is always a good idea to remove the negative battery terminal before moving fuses. although I am guilty of not doing this as well, but I take great care for when I am removing fuses for important systems, to remove the battery terminal.
About putting the fuse in the wrong place, the fuse box is one of the parts on the car that is designed to be used across a wide range of trims and models so many times there will be several blank slots. IF the slot was MEANT to be blank, then there should be no metal contacts inside the slot. if there are then check again, because it probably goes to something. Or it is a 12v constant or switched power that was put there by the factory for the purpose of dealer installed options, although that is becoming less and less common in later models. If nothing happens when you turn the key, then there is either a lack of power to the ECM or the ECM is fried. This does happen but it is not very common, and there would be no explanation for it that I can tell. chances are that you may have just shorted something somehow or some way. with a "trickle short" or "parasitic draw" you could have just killed the battery. have it tested or buy a tester to check that. If the battery is dead that very well could be the problem. Other than that, if none of the fuses and relays are bad, then it is a much deeper problem.
Old 05-13-2017, 05:09 PM
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Join Date: May 2017
Posts: 2
Default Fuses and Battery Are All Good

Chris, thanks for the reply. Yes, indeed good tip about disconnecting the battery. I definitely should have done this as it is a good practice.

I have checked all of the fuses and they all are good. The battery is also still good.

When I go to start the car it seems like it wants to turn over but then just doesn't quite make it all the way. There are also a lot of clicking sounds that are happening in the engine after turn back off the ignition directly after having tried to stop it.

Any other ideas of things I might want to check?
Old 05-13-2017, 10:03 PM
1st Gear
Join Date: Jan 2016
Posts: 37

If you could get your hands on a VAG com and run your codes that would be great. Even a normal OBDII reader would be better than nothing. These cars are really smart, they can tell you when many things are wrong. More so than just about any other brand group.
I am assuming that the ignition turns on normally (all the lights come on and such) but the starter is not engaging. This could be a starter problem. Listen carefully when you turn the key from the run to start position. If there is a mechanical click then you might have a starter motor problem. If there is no click then you might have a starter relay problem and should take it to a mechanic to test the relay or test it yourself with a multimeter. If there is a click then one solution is to try to roll start the car. If you don't have a good hill (or any way to get the car back if it doesn't work) then try spraying some dielectric grease on the starter electrical terminals (or WD40 if you don't have any) and hit the starter a few times with a rod or mallet if you can get to it with one. You may have just developed a dead spot in the starter motor. If the car starts after that, I would get the starter motor replaced. Although I have heard of people doing this and driving their car for up to a year afterwards I don't recommend waiting. Because it could happen at any time again and leave you stranded.
give this a try and try to run the codes! Let me know how it goes!
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