Break fluid gelling up
#1
Break fluid gelling up
my breaks overheated and they were hanging up I looked into them today everything is fine the pads are good the caliber is good what I did find is the break fluid is thick and its like a green gel what would cause this and how do I fix it ??? thanks
#5
I bled all the old break fluid out of the system and put new break fluid in now I cant seem to get pressure built up on the break peddle I removed the pads and checked the calipers . the calipers and the pads or fine now I'm thinking the master went bad trying to bleed the breaks any ideas or thoughts as what I should do next
#6
You have to be careful when bleeding to not let the fluid in the reservoir get low enough to allow air into the mastercylinder piston area. You'll have to crack open the lines connected to it and bleed it there first. It can get messy. You're basically having to bench bleed the master cylinder in the car instead of on the bench. It usually only take a few strokes though. Just put a rag or two under it to catch and brake fluid and be sure to wash it all up with a good blast of brake clean when you're done.
The pressure bleeders work from the master cylinder on back though the system. They look much like a garden sprayer and can hold a gallon of fluid. It connected to the filler cap on the reservoir. You pump it up to build pressure in the reservoir and go to each caliper and loosen the bleeder until you see clean clear fluid coming out. You usually start at the right rear caliper as it's the furthest away. Then the other rear one. Then to the right front and left front in that order. Be sure to keep an eye on the fluid in the pressure tank and the reservoir. Any air gets in, you have to start over..... Here's the one I have.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Motive-Produ...tY~jmk&vxp=mtr
The pressure bleeders work from the master cylinder on back though the system. They look much like a garden sprayer and can hold a gallon of fluid. It connected to the filler cap on the reservoir. You pump it up to build pressure in the reservoir and go to each caliper and loosen the bleeder until you see clean clear fluid coming out. You usually start at the right rear caliper as it's the furthest away. Then the other rear one. Then to the right front and left front in that order. Be sure to keep an eye on the fluid in the pressure tank and the reservoir. Any air gets in, you have to start over..... Here's the one I have.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Motive-Produ...tY~jmk&vxp=mtr
#7
well I checked the calipers and the pads they are all fine I drained and replaced the break fluid I thought the problem was fixed , its not I drove the car a couple of days and today the front breaks overheated and locked up after putting water on them and letting them cool I was able to drive about 5 miles and I got the car home it seems like the breaks wont release and the break puddle was hard to push in, after the cooled it seem normal for awhile , for some reason the front breaks wont release could it be the master cylinder, ABS or could be the vacuum assist can someone please help me figure this out ? thanks
#8
front breaks overheating
can some please help me figure this out ? 2002 Audi Allroad 2.7 gas motor , my front breaks are overheating I checked the calipers and the pads they are good and work fine the breaks fluid looked like a green gel so I bled it all out and replaced it with new DOT 4 and I bled all the breaks I though I fixed the problem but after driving the car for a couple days they are still overheating , could it be the master cylinder , the ABS or maybe the vacuum assist . the back breaks are fine with no issues thanks
#10
I did a little Googling after I thought about this. I bet there has been a mix-up of synthetic and mineral oil based DOT4/5 or someone has accidentally put DOT3 in it at some point. When you get gelling of brake fluid, that almost always indicates an incompatible mix of two different types of fluid. I'd flush the entire system with fresh DOT4 with a pressure bleeder. First, I'd got to each caliper and crack open the bleeder and compress the caliper to push as much fluid out as possible. Use a suction device like a small turkey baster to evacuate as much fluid as possible from the master cylinder reservoir. Refill it and THEN pressure bleed it to flush out the rest of the system starting at the right rear. Then left rear, right front, and finally the right front.