Thats weird...I dont know how to fix it, but Im in Minnesota. Once you get to the new/used page, do the used search...type in 2001 to 2001 Audi A4. THe blue one is title A4 1.8T Quattro. It has 30,500 Miles and is 19,000. Dont even really worry about the other one, I really want this blue one. Let me know what you think about it...
3rd Gear
Ok saw it.
Vague and basic description, but I suppose I couldn't expect much more.
So far it's a good car, but there's a lot to be desired. You need more info about the car.
Here's my best advice:
Spend the money (I think it's $19.95) and get a CARFAX report. All you need is the VIN which is listed on the site. Check the report and get back to me.
By the way: The CARFAX fee will allow you to get several reports on other cars, so if this car doesn't work out, you'll still be able to investigate other cars.
Vague and basic description, but I suppose I couldn't expect much more.
So far it's a good car, but there's a lot to be desired. You need more info about the car.
Here's my best advice:
Spend the money (I think it's $19.95) and get a CARFAX report. All you need is the VIN which is listed on the site. Check the report and get back to me.
By the way: The CARFAX fee will allow you to get several reports on other cars, so if this car doesn't work out, you'll still be able to investigate other cars.
3rd Gear
By the way: There's another newbie on this site (Nasalcrom) who just bought a 2001 A4 fully loaded - same color, too! I think he said he paid 16,000 and it had 25k miles.
Dang...16000 for a car with only 25k miles?!? Geez... Ill look into that carfax thing. Sounds like a good idea. My dad said I could get that one once we get rid of a 2002 Mazda Protege5 that we have on lease. We are trying to give the rest of a lease to someone that wants it, so hopefully that will follow through. The price is 19,000 on that one OBO, what would you suggest I offer for it? Thanks
3rd Gear
I don't know... get the Carfax report first. Without the report it's like you are going into battle without ammunition.
Okay, I will. My dad wants to wait to do it though until we sell the Mazda. Ill keep you posted...Thanks for all the help/responses
3rd Gear
No problem... remember, even after the Carfax report, you'll need to do a thorough hands-on inspection, too. After that, you can negotiate (down!) from the asking price.
Alright, I did the Carfax thing cause my dad is looking to buy my brother a truck. The car is fine and its only had 1 owner. It was bought in California. Everything checked up okay. One person that went to look at the car wrote on the carfax report 'Drives great. Several smears and scrapes on paint." I will have to go look at the car and see what condition the paint is in. And if nothing else, these scrapes and smears will just lower the price that I will offer...I will have a reason to offer lower then. What exactly should I look for if I went to see the car?
And I just did a KBB search for this car, and it said that a private party cost would be $18,135. So we will see...
3rd Gear
couple of quick questions:
Who is selling the car? An authorized Audi dealer? Does it come with the Audi Assured Extended Warranty?
What was the actual mileage history in the Carfax report? Can you post it or link the report?
When you go to see the car:
1. Ask to see the owners manual and any other maintenance records. (The owner's manual has a maintenance record section for the Audi service to stamp the book whenever service is performed on the vehicle. Any decent owner, who took advantage of the free maintenance and warranty would have these records intact and without gaps.)
2. Check under the hood and look at all the hose clamps (the band style clamps). Take note to see if they are one-time clamps or screw-type adjustable clamps. Adjustable clamps would be an indication of repair.
3. Take it for a test drive. Don't turn on the radio - do that after you return and are sitting parked. Listen to everything - take note of any sounds that may seem odd. Don't assume that since it's a car you're not familiar with that the sounds may be normal. Feel the car's response to hard accelaration and soft, feathered acceleration. Warn the passengers that you want to do a panic stop and then slam the brakes - of course do this where it will be safe for you, the car, the passengers, and any traffic. Take note of the brke response. Do the same thing for a panic turn. Act as if a dog just ran in front of the car and you have to swerve quickly to avoid the dog. Do this maneuver in both directions. Take note of the steering response.
4. After the drive, park with the engine running and open the hood. Look and listen - inspect the running engine. After three minutes or so, go inside the car and take note of the temp gauge. Then turn off the car and return to the engine bay. Look and listen again. Then take a look under the car on the pavement. Take note of any fluid leaks onto the pavement - of course try to park where the ground is clear and clean.
Lastly, see if you can find someone with a VAG-COM. After you take the car for a well rounded and spirirted drive of at least 20 minutes and you do the above inspection... turn the engine on and off three or four times (act as if you want to listen to the engine as it turns over). Then have your friend VAG the car. If the car is clean, no codes will show up. If codes show up, then have them diagnosed later that day (post them here if you have to). These codes may or may not be serious, but they, at the least, will give more information with which to negotiate. If the seller doesn't allow you to VAG the car (no matter what excuse he/she uses), WALK AWAY! Politely thank the seller for their time and wish them well trying to sell the car. If the seller won't let you VAG the car, then they know something is wrong internally, and they are hiding it. WALK AWAY!
After all this, you will have plenty of info with which to make an informed decision and have plenty of defense/proof to back up your offer.
Who is selling the car? An authorized Audi dealer? Does it come with the Audi Assured Extended Warranty?
What was the actual mileage history in the Carfax report? Can you post it or link the report?
When you go to see the car:
1. Ask to see the owners manual and any other maintenance records. (The owner's manual has a maintenance record section for the Audi service to stamp the book whenever service is performed on the vehicle. Any decent owner, who took advantage of the free maintenance and warranty would have these records intact and without gaps.)
2. Check under the hood and look at all the hose clamps (the band style clamps). Take note to see if they are one-time clamps or screw-type adjustable clamps. Adjustable clamps would be an indication of repair.
3. Take it for a test drive. Don't turn on the radio - do that after you return and are sitting parked. Listen to everything - take note of any sounds that may seem odd. Don't assume that since it's a car you're not familiar with that the sounds may be normal. Feel the car's response to hard accelaration and soft, feathered acceleration. Warn the passengers that you want to do a panic stop and then slam the brakes - of course do this where it will be safe for you, the car, the passengers, and any traffic. Take note of the brke response. Do the same thing for a panic turn. Act as if a dog just ran in front of the car and you have to swerve quickly to avoid the dog. Do this maneuver in both directions. Take note of the steering response.
4. After the drive, park with the engine running and open the hood. Look and listen - inspect the running engine. After three minutes or so, go inside the car and take note of the temp gauge. Then turn off the car and return to the engine bay. Look and listen again. Then take a look under the car on the pavement. Take note of any fluid leaks onto the pavement - of course try to park where the ground is clear and clean.
Lastly, see if you can find someone with a VAG-COM. After you take the car for a well rounded and spirirted drive of at least 20 minutes and you do the above inspection... turn the engine on and off three or four times (act as if you want to listen to the engine as it turns over). Then have your friend VAG the car. If the car is clean, no codes will show up. If codes show up, then have them diagnosed later that day (post them here if you have to). These codes may or may not be serious, but they, at the least, will give more information with which to negotiate. If the seller doesn't allow you to VAG the car (no matter what excuse he/she uses), WALK AWAY! Politely thank the seller for their time and wish them well trying to sell the car. If the seller won't let you VAG the car, then they know something is wrong internally, and they are hiding it. WALK AWAY!
After all this, you will have plenty of info with which to make an informed decision and have plenty of defense/proof to back up your offer.