Hello,

I am working with a master mechanic to install a nitrous system. The installation is complete but the results are extremely disappointing. We were targeting approximatly 100HP but have only achieved approximatly 40HP and 75FPT with what is estimated to be enough nitrous for 100HP easy. This is a wet system and the dyno tuning is showing that we are close to stoich (13:1 / 14:1) thoughout the entire run.

So, I guess that I am asking for some advice. Something, possibly ECU control, is limiting the HP gains on this car. At this point, the car is hitting OPEN LOOP and timing seems to be advanced.

However, that FLAT SPOT between 3500 and 5500 is just the pits. I have no clue what is preventing this engine from performing.

ANY IDEAS????

THanks,
Chris

 

What is the exaust gas temperature. It has to be between 900 to 1200F to be most eficient.
if too much you have to advance the timing more.

Also check that the MAF does not limit air beocuse of the adeed substance.

Did you instal before or after the MAF the nozle.

And add some fuel, you have to run 12.5 to get full performence out of air.

 

Thanks for your response. Like I said, the A/F tuning is dead on between 13/12:1 throughout the RPM range. I am pretty sure that the EGT is within range.

The install is at the throttle body elbow post-MAF.

 

Well, as the story goes... There was a problem with Nitrous Solonoid where there was a blockage in the filter.

For right now, the car is making 80HP and 130FTLBS of torque EXTRA... This is a good start.

I think that the next step is to change the injection configuration to direct port rather than the throttle body elbow. This will change the dynamics by which the system can be activated (RPM window).

Thanks,
Chris

 

Good to hear someone else has the stones to run a nitrous system on a 30v, I would love to hear all about your setup and your experiences.

 

No complaints.... The system is pretty basic with every nitrous 'saftey' is installed.

There are 2 swtiches in the dash (audi fog light switches) 1 for the nitrous BOTTLE WARMER and remote bottle opener. The other switch for 'arming'.

The following conditions must be met for nitrous to engage:
fuel pressure over 40PSI
RPM 4k and 6.2K (this is variable)
Bottle Pressure over 900PSI

The RPM signal is obtained by MSD components: Tach Switch and Diesil Tach Sensor. You can use the MSD Tack switch to digitally change the Nitrous RPM window.

The setup is awesome and you can't tell its there. James Bond style.

 

Did you start with a base kit? What components did you implement other what was in the base kit. I was going to run a zex kit but they seem too basic, is that what you are running? I have also found that being able to service solenoids is very important. Do you feel having the system operate within a certain rpm window is kind of excessive at low power levels. I have gone over my ideal set up time and time again and found that a WOT switch run in series with a steering wheel trigger is very solid with low power levels. I like to have control, I think this also comes with knowledge though. You mentioned a direct port setup however will this really be effective to use on a 30v intake plenum? The plenum is "Tuned" to maintain scavaging characteristics and the nitrous ports will upset the fluid dynamics, we must not forget about our newly aquired boundry layer now that we have hogged up our intake runners. Got to go! I'll post later I got **** to do.

 

SOme good questions man...


Did you start with a base kit?
Yes, because the package is cheaper if you get a kit. But, I did not install that without having all the other components. You don't want to run lines more than once or add electrical connections multiple times. Everying is connected with weather-tight connectors, soldered, and heat shrinked. Do it once, not over and over again.

What components did you implement other what was in the base kit.
Bottle Heater
MSD Coil Tab
MSD RPM Switch
AUDI Dash switches (they go where the blanks are)
Extra Relays - EVERYTHING should be relayed!!!
Fuel Pressure Sensor
Blow Down Kit
Remote Bottle Opener
Nitrous Line Pressure Sensor (Actuates the Bottle Heater)


I was going to run a zex kit but they seem too basic, is that what you are running?
NOS - they really SUPPORT thier systems and provide comprehensive help line and troubleshooting assistance. My opinion is that they are mostly the same, its comes down to the company and thier service/warranty.

I have also found that being able to service solenoids is very important.
I dont know, but the solenoids come apart. I accidently ran fuel through the nitrous soloniod and that was not good. The nitrous soloniod has different composite components. When I did this, one of the o-rings swelled and caused a blockage which made our heads spin. But, we figued it out and then replaced the solonoid o-ring. No problems after that.

Do you feel having the system operate within a certain rpm window is kind of excessive at low power levels.
My RPM window can be variable. You need to figure out our shiting patterns to determine where you want your power. For instance, when you up-shift from 6K the you want RPM window to be set so that the nitrous is continuous for the next gear RPM.

You mentioned a direct port setup however will this really be effective to use on a 30v intake plenum? The plenum is "Tuned" to maintain scavaging characteristics and the nitrous ports will upset the fluid dynamics, we must not forget about our newly aquired boundry layer now that we have hogged up our intake runners.
My personal feeling is that the INTAKE RUNNER is a WASTE of space and I am pretty annoyed that it even exists. You may be right about direct port effecting the running. However, you can get a FUEL INJECTOR SPACER which injects the nitrous directly into the fuel injector ports. The parts will add up to approximatly $100 per injector. You will also need to split the fuel rail uni-tube to be able to adjust the fuel rail. Other than that, this would be the best and most effective setup. It would allow for better air/fuel dynamics and will allow you to put a 100HP SHOT down toward 2500/3000.

 

Rcferrari thank you for the reply, I feel this is an important topic for those with a 30v Audi. I am slightly confused by what you have posted about the intake plenum, I might have confused you or others so I applogize. This would be a great quote on a t-shirt for you, "My personal feeling is that the INTAKE RUNNER is a WASTE of space and I am pretty annoyed that it even exists.", however I think a "I really have no ******* clue what I am talking about" t-shirt might be a better fit. Take a picture too, I need an avatar. Do you have any experience with internal combustion engines? Do you not comprehend naturally aspirated engine theory? I am withdrawing from this thread do to quality of posts. I am more than willing to help anyone with any questions on this topic feel free to PM myself. I have been designing, installing, and tuning nitrous oxide injection systems for the past two race seasons.

 

Wow, you must be some sort of real brain. How about you disconnect the plenum solenoid and dyno your car. Let us know if you can feel that 4HP loss at the crank. Let me ask you assFIST, which muffler should I get to increase my horsepower? Or should I just call your mom over?

You are definatly gay - "laserfist". Little bitch.