n75 faulty? and boost controllers
 

ok, so with all pipes connected, when changing gear i get lag for 1-2 seconds, almost like my turbo has a switch, then get power, at part (and even just touching the pedal between gears)or full throttle. also i was getting 18psi spike dropping to 10psi, so just to see whats going on i disconnected the pipe from the actuator and im now getting 14psi, no spike and sits at 12-14 unless in 4th and get 14-15 psi.

so is my nj5 faulty? and if so can i just by pass the n75 valve, keep it plugged in electricly and just use a bleed valve so i can run 14psi and of course more with a remap.

ive dissconected the dump valve and blocked it to see if that was the problem, but on or off it makes no diffrence and the fact the car now wants to go after a gear change after dissconnecting the n75 valve makes me think its that,

also if i leave the pipes connected but unplug the connector i get 8psi, sounds standard levels but thought id mention it.

on to a bleed controller, i read a bleed valve is better then one with a ball and spring.

any other advice would be good cheers

I just posted this for another guy on a different forum, about the N75:
http://forums.fourtitude.com/showthr...1#post77700151
Check that out. Also it wouldn't hurt for you to perform a boost leak test.

If your N75 is faulty then you could replace it with a MBC, but your boost onset won't be as smooth.

Many times when chipped it's recommended to go with a colder heat range spark plug and reduce your spark plug gap. When I first was chipped I ran NGK BKR7E plugs (copper, so they have to be replaced every 5-8k miles) @ 0.028" gap. And have you replaced your diverter valve? It's common for the stock diverter valve to be insufficient for chipped boost levels, especially if it's already damaged.