Mountain Bike
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2nd Gear
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 603
From:
Mountain Bike
Hey, the GF and I are looking to start mountain biking. We have a few trails around here.
I'm curious as to what I should get. The type of biking we will be doing is mostly through trails, through gravel and such. What I want is this to become a hobby for us.
I have no idea what brand of bikes are good. I would like to pay around $250US for my first bike and I would like to swap parts on it if I want to upgrade anything. Then over time I will move on to better frames, forks, etc.Can someone point me in the right direction? What brands to look for, what to avoid?
Thanks.
I'm curious as to what I should get. The type of biking we will be doing is mostly through trails, through gravel and such. What I want is this to become a hobby for us.
I have no idea what brand of bikes are good. I would like to pay around $250US for my first bike and I would like to swap parts on it if I want to upgrade anything. Then over time I will move on to better frames, forks, etc.Can someone point me in the right direction? What brands to look for, what to avoid?
Thanks.
Senior Administrator
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 13,574
From: Lotsa places, currently Metro D.C., USA
There are trade-offs...
$250.00 means you'll be shopping at Target or Wal-Mart, which is sensible for starting out. You're gonna want something with a front suspension, at the very least. AT that price, at those stores, you can even find full-suspension bikes. Full-floaters (or, F/S, for full-suspension) bikes are best for downhill riding since, when pedaling up hill, you'll be spending a fair amount of energy pogo-ing (boingy-boingy), I mean pedaling against the up and down motion of the suspension.
If your riding will be primairly leisure (awwww.... quality time!), a front suspension and some really fat tires will do fine. Get one with as many gear ratios as you can find in your price range. Prolly 21-sp. Search online and you might find a 28-sp in that range.
The gears come in REAL HANDY when you're going UP hill. Just like in a car, top gear is fro cruisin'. Lower gears are for hard work.
Those big, fat, knobby tires, by the way, work wonders off road. ON-road, just like the guys with the Jim-Bob-sized knobbies on their 100"-lifted Ford F1.50's, you are working AGAINST the ***** on pavement. But, sometimes you gotta hit the pavement to get to the gravel, so it's a trade off, like I said.
Your ***... It IS gonna hurt, the first few times, and yur girl won't like that part (unless she's into that sorta thing). But, you can make it softer for her with a series of cushioning items swapped in place of stock pieces. Hit up www.performancebike.com (there are literally hundreds of places you can find this stuff cheaper, but PB's been at it for decades, and they have never done me wrong) and search for a suspension seatpost, a suspension seat, and a gel seat-cover. There's about a dozen-and-a-half things you can add on, to make the transition more comfortable for both of you, but it adds weight. Just like with cars, weight is the ENEMY of performance. But, YOU aren't looking for performance, right off the bat. You want to make it enjoyable, so she (and you) will wanna keep doing it (quality-time extender hint: Shower TOGETHER after your rides!).
I'll do a little research (combing through the dozen or so bookmarks I have for Bike accessories) and post up some links.
Where's "around here" for you? Just curious. You don't hafta divulge if you don't wanna.
By the fall, if you've stuck with it, you'll be looking to purchase something decent ($250.00 for bikes is kinda like buying a low-mileage '96 2.8 A4, and pimpin it up... Nice for a beginner, but you're gonna wanna current model 2.0T, really soon). You can drop some major loot on add-ons & upgrades. 3x-5x the cost of the bike, easy. Don't do it. Cheap bikes have cheap (read: heavy) frames. When you're ready for an upgrade, hang the old bikes in the garage, or donate them, and look to spend about 2x (minimum) what you paid for them on your next set. By then you're be veterans, and she won't need all the soft-ifyer stuff, so you can concentrate on better brakes, shifters (please don't do grip-shifters. Sounds cool, but they're NOT. They are so NOT), pedals, lights for riding at night.
Oh, also, INVEST in a couple of Camelbaks, and AT LEAST two spare bladders to go with them. You'll want the 100oz size, for you, and the 70oz-er for her (unless, of course, she's... Ummm... Shall we say... AMAZONIAN! Get the cleaning kits ans stuff, too. I'll include links to all that, as well, unless some industrious soul beats me to it.
Check back tomorrow.
$250.00 means you'll be shopping at Target or Wal-Mart, which is sensible for starting out. You're gonna want something with a front suspension, at the very least. AT that price, at those stores, you can even find full-suspension bikes. Full-floaters (or, F/S, for full-suspension) bikes are best for downhill riding since, when pedaling up hill, you'll be spending a fair amount of energy pogo-ing (boingy-boingy), I mean pedaling against the up and down motion of the suspension.
If your riding will be primairly leisure (awwww.... quality time!), a front suspension and some really fat tires will do fine. Get one with as many gear ratios as you can find in your price range. Prolly 21-sp. Search online and you might find a 28-sp in that range.
The gears come in REAL HANDY when you're going UP hill. Just like in a car, top gear is fro cruisin'. Lower gears are for hard work.
Those big, fat, knobby tires, by the way, work wonders off road. ON-road, just like the guys with the Jim-Bob-sized knobbies on their 100"-lifted Ford F1.50's, you are working AGAINST the ***** on pavement. But, sometimes you gotta hit the pavement to get to the gravel, so it's a trade off, like I said.
Your ***... It IS gonna hurt, the first few times, and yur girl won't like that part (unless she's into that sorta thing). But, you can make it softer for her with a series of cushioning items swapped in place of stock pieces. Hit up www.performancebike.com (there are literally hundreds of places you can find this stuff cheaper, but PB's been at it for decades, and they have never done me wrong) and search for a suspension seatpost, a suspension seat, and a gel seat-cover. There's about a dozen-and-a-half things you can add on, to make the transition more comfortable for both of you, but it adds weight. Just like with cars, weight is the ENEMY of performance. But, YOU aren't looking for performance, right off the bat. You want to make it enjoyable, so she (and you) will wanna keep doing it (quality-time extender hint: Shower TOGETHER after your rides!).
I'll do a little research (combing through the dozen or so bookmarks I have for Bike accessories) and post up some links.
Where's "around here" for you? Just curious. You don't hafta divulge if you don't wanna.
By the fall, if you've stuck with it, you'll be looking to purchase something decent ($250.00 for bikes is kinda like buying a low-mileage '96 2.8 A4, and pimpin it up... Nice for a beginner, but you're gonna wanna current model 2.0T, really soon). You can drop some major loot on add-ons & upgrades. 3x-5x the cost of the bike, easy. Don't do it. Cheap bikes have cheap (read: heavy) frames. When you're ready for an upgrade, hang the old bikes in the garage, or donate them, and look to spend about 2x (minimum) what you paid for them on your next set. By then you're be veterans, and she won't need all the soft-ifyer stuff, so you can concentrate on better brakes, shifters (please don't do grip-shifters. Sounds cool, but they're NOT. They are so NOT), pedals, lights for riding at night.
Oh, also, INVEST in a couple of Camelbaks, and AT LEAST two spare bladders to go with them. You'll want the 100oz size, for you, and the 70oz-er for her (unless, of course, she's... Ummm... Shall we say... AMAZONIAN! Get the cleaning kits ans stuff, too. I'll include links to all that, as well, unless some industrious soul beats me to it.
Check back tomorrow.
Last edited by AWDaholic; Apr 22, 2009 at 10:27 PM.
2nd Gear
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 695
x2 on the full suspension bikes, great for butt comfort on road, and downhill, but going uphill in a FS bike is HARD WORK
grip shifts do indeed SUCK, shimano makes a nice click shift, you click a trigger to upshift, and push a lever with your thumb to downshift
cant remember the name of that shifter now, but most of the nicer bikes at wal-mart will have them.
i hear disc brakes are nice too...but i haevnt ridden a bike with them yet....
i think some of the nicer bikes at wal mart are mongoose, you should be able to get one of those with a FS and 26" tires, disc brakes and 24 speeds for under the 250$ mark
another thing to check out is pedal clips, i haev the ancient strap kind, but the newer clip in ones are very nice
when your feet are locked into the pedals, it seems easier to ride over obstacles, and up hills
of course, i am still riding a $150 pacific denali bike, lol
heavy as all get out, but for my riding style, and the amount of time i spend in the saddle, its enough, my next bike will be a FS, most likely mongoose....i just dont ride enough to justify 6-700$ on a mtn bike....
unless i can find a nice used haro/trek/cannondale etc....lol
also, x2 on the camelbaks, reaching for waterbottles is so overrated, and besides that, many water bottles are only 20oz....hardly enough for an hour of riding, let alone 3-4hrs....
im also curious about those links awdaholic....
grip shifts do indeed SUCK, shimano makes a nice click shift, you click a trigger to upshift, and push a lever with your thumb to downshift
cant remember the name of that shifter now, but most of the nicer bikes at wal-mart will have them.
i hear disc brakes are nice too...but i haevnt ridden a bike with them yet....
i think some of the nicer bikes at wal mart are mongoose, you should be able to get one of those with a FS and 26" tires, disc brakes and 24 speeds for under the 250$ mark
another thing to check out is pedal clips, i haev the ancient strap kind, but the newer clip in ones are very nice
when your feet are locked into the pedals, it seems easier to ride over obstacles, and up hills
of course, i am still riding a $150 pacific denali bike, lol
heavy as all get out, but for my riding style, and the amount of time i spend in the saddle, its enough, my next bike will be a FS, most likely mongoose....i just dont ride enough to justify 6-700$ on a mtn bike....
unless i can find a nice used haro/trek/cannondale etc....lol
also, x2 on the camelbaks, reaching for waterbottles is so overrated, and besides that, many water bottles are only 20oz....hardly enough for an hour of riding, let alone 3-4hrs....
im also curious about those links awdaholic....
Senior Administrator
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 13,574
From: Lotsa places, currently Metro D.C., USA
I'll get the links up tonight. Promise!
The Shimano shifters are called "Index" shifters.
Disk brakes have not yet become ubiquitous enough to be inexpensive and, if your bike isn't already with mounts, you hafta find someone to weld some on... Also not cheap. I'd say wait'll your 2nd or 3rd bike for disk brakes. I do not have them, yet, on my bike, but am planning to upgrade to them possibly this summer, depending on how much free (read: riding) time I have. They ARE "teh secks". About as good as upgrading from drum to disc brakes on your car (for you old heads who remember drum brakes).
The Shimano shifters are called "Index" shifters.
Disk brakes have not yet become ubiquitous enough to be inexpensive and, if your bike isn't already with mounts, you hafta find someone to weld some on... Also not cheap. I'd say wait'll your 2nd or 3rd bike for disk brakes. I do not have them, yet, on my bike, but am planning to upgrade to them possibly this summer, depending on how much free (read: riding) time I have. They ARE "teh secks". About as good as upgrading from drum to disc brakes on your car (for you old heads who remember drum brakes).
Senior Administrator
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 13,574
From: Lotsa places, currently Metro D.C., USA
Also, good point about bike size. I forgot to mention that...
The frame measurements (16", 18", 20", 21" or what have you) measure the vertical seat tube (not to be confused with the adjustable seat post) on the main frame. The measurement begins from the bottom bracket (the cylindrical part of the lower frame in which the pedal cranks are affixed) and goes up to the top of the seat tube, the point at which the seat post enters the main frame.
A 16" frame is most suitable for riders ranging from 5' to 5'8" in height.
An 18" frame is most suitable for riders ranging from 5'7" to 6'1" in height.
A 20" or 21" frame works for riders 6' and up.
Keep in mind, these ranges are just approximations. But, there is no set standard. In reality, no matter your height, people have different builds. Two people of the same height can have drastically different proportions: one might have long legs, while the other might have shorter legs.
When sizing a bike, your body should be situated as follows:
With one of the pedals in its lowest positions, your leg should be almost completely extended. Almost, but NOT COMPLETELY! There should be a very slight bend at the knee (or, if you are from a planet somewhere in teh vicinity of Andromeda... One or the other of your 3 FExrddk should bend approximately 3 Lppx's).
This allows for efficient pedaling (why waste energy?) and protects your knees from undue strain.
Note: The frame measurements are not to be confused with the wheel sizes. Wheel sizes can come in at 16", 18", 20" (most BMX's), 24", 26" (the standard wheel size in the U.S.), and 700C/27" (often found on racing bikes and European models.) The wheel measurements are independent of the frame size; when a bike is labeled as an 18" bike, the measurement is referring to the frame size specifically. If it's labeled as a 24" or 26" bike, it is most likely referring to the wheel size.
The frame measurements (16", 18", 20", 21" or what have you) measure the vertical seat tube (not to be confused with the adjustable seat post) on the main frame. The measurement begins from the bottom bracket (the cylindrical part of the lower frame in which the pedal cranks are affixed) and goes up to the top of the seat tube, the point at which the seat post enters the main frame.
A 16" frame is most suitable for riders ranging from 5' to 5'8" in height.
An 18" frame is most suitable for riders ranging from 5'7" to 6'1" in height.
A 20" or 21" frame works for riders 6' and up.
Keep in mind, these ranges are just approximations. But, there is no set standard. In reality, no matter your height, people have different builds. Two people of the same height can have drastically different proportions: one might have long legs, while the other might have shorter legs.
When sizing a bike, your body should be situated as follows:
With one of the pedals in its lowest positions, your leg should be almost completely extended. Almost, but NOT COMPLETELY! There should be a very slight bend at the knee (or, if you are from a planet somewhere in teh vicinity of Andromeda... One or the other of your 3 FExrddk should bend approximately 3 Lppx's).
This allows for efficient pedaling (why waste energy?) and protects your knees from undue strain.
Note: The frame measurements are not to be confused with the wheel sizes. Wheel sizes can come in at 16", 18", 20" (most BMX's), 24", 26" (the standard wheel size in the U.S.), and 700C/27" (often found on racing bikes and European models.) The wheel measurements are independent of the frame size; when a bike is labeled as an 18" bike, the measurement is referring to the frame size specifically. If it's labeled as a 24" or 26" bike, it is most likely referring to the wheel size.
2nd Gear
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 1,061
From: Ithaca, New York
honestly... i would get ironhorse with dual suspension, dual disk breaks and quickfire shifters. I believe dicks sporting goods has them on sale for around 318 or something. If i were you i would check that out because i had one before and it kicked *** on trails. Too bad it went over the gorge during my little accident :-/
Thread Starter
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2nd Gear
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 603
From:
Wow thanks for all the info. I was thinking a hardtail would do me fine. I have actually found some used bikes which look like they may be a good start.
I am still curious what brands to look for. I have a bike for sale here that looks decant and its a Trek bike. Any info on brands?
I am still curious what brands to look for. I have a bike for sale here that looks decant and its a Trek bike. Any info on brands?
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 181
From: Cincinnati, OH
Yeah, Jazz pretty much got the nail on the head, but I would strongly suggest a hardtail if you can. It teaches you to be a better rider right off the bat, because you can't just bounce your way over everything. Also, remember that the lighter, the better.
If you want it all to be an enjoyable experience, be sure to take your time on the trail. This is important, because for most people, even people who have been at it for years, riding the trails is a zen sort of thing, take it all in!
The best thing about mountain biking is the people you'll meet, almost always cool as hell and almost never will make fun of the noobs.
I worked in a real bike shop for about three years, and I'm here to tell you, the bug will bite. Be prepared for investments, you'll want nicer equipment. Also, if you plan on a hardtail, you can probably find one in a professional bike shop for your price range, and you will know it was built by a competent enthusiast, and the shop will stand behind their qualty products. Check these ones out:
Specialized Hardrock series
Giant MTB's are excellent
Cannondale is amazing
Trek is pretty good
Gary fisher is good stuff too
All of these are likely to have a quality mountain bike in your range, you won't be sorry if you pick up any of these.
One more thing in my incoherent rambling here, Clipless pedals are the most beautiful invention ever, do not be afraid of them.
If you want it all to be an enjoyable experience, be sure to take your time on the trail. This is important, because for most people, even people who have been at it for years, riding the trails is a zen sort of thing, take it all in!
The best thing about mountain biking is the people you'll meet, almost always cool as hell and almost never will make fun of the noobs.
I worked in a real bike shop for about three years, and I'm here to tell you, the bug will bite. Be prepared for investments, you'll want nicer equipment. Also, if you plan on a hardtail, you can probably find one in a professional bike shop for your price range, and you will know it was built by a competent enthusiast, and the shop will stand behind their qualty products. Check these ones out:
Specialized Hardrock series
Giant MTB's are excellent
Cannondale is amazing
Trek is pretty good
Gary fisher is good stuff too
All of these are likely to have a quality mountain bike in your range, you won't be sorry if you pick up any of these.
One more thing in my incoherent rambling here, Clipless pedals are the most beautiful invention ever, do not be afraid of them.