Need help with SSR(solid state relay) BIG MINDS i need you
Ok here is my story:
I have an expresso machine (Rancilio Silvia) what i want to do is to install a PID controller(proportional–integral–derivative controller) to have a better control over the boiler temperature. In my case the temperature i want is 223F.
Rancilio Silvia:

PID PXZ-4

What a PID will do:
The brew thermostat has about 50F variations. Wich is way to much(takes longer to do shots, and i always have to surf with the temperature) We understand that when you make a shot at 190F and you make an other oneat 225F you have 2 different expresso(taste, consistency, color, odor). In my case i want the same expresso over and over.
In order to protect my PID(wich is quite expensive) its strongly recommended that i install a SSR(solid state relay).
SSR:

Now im pretty sure i did the wiring the right way. It was easy to follow and i didnt cut corners to finish faster.I took this as a step by step how to:http://www.murphyslawonline.com/silvia.html
The problem i have is that i have no "communication" between the SSR and the boiler.
So here is my question: How do i verifiy(test) the SSR of its good or not. The PID works, reads the temperature, no problem there. The thermocouple is plugged and working. I monitor the temperature with the stock brew thermostat when its on his "stock wiring". But when i change to make the PID do the job...nothing. So i suspect a faulty SSR. Also there is some kind of light bulb on the SSR, is this supposed to be on when the SSR has power?
I know its a lot asking, but i couldnt find the info on the net.
I have an expresso machine (Rancilio Silvia) what i want to do is to install a PID controller(proportional–integral–derivative controller) to have a better control over the boiler temperature. In my case the temperature i want is 223F.
Rancilio Silvia:

PID PXZ-4

What a PID will do:
The PID controller is like the driver who gradually applies the brakes and slows down as he approaches the intersection. The PID controller turns the heating element on and off at 1 second intervals.As the boiler approaches the desired temperature, the PID turns the heating element on for shorter intervals
In order to protect my PID(wich is quite expensive) its strongly recommended that i install a SSR(solid state relay).
SSR:

Now im pretty sure i did the wiring the right way. It was easy to follow and i didnt cut corners to finish faster.I took this as a step by step how to:http://www.murphyslawonline.com/silvia.html
The problem i have is that i have no "communication" between the SSR and the boiler.
So here is my question: How do i verifiy(test) the SSR of its good or not. The PID works, reads the temperature, no problem there. The thermocouple is plugged and working. I monitor the temperature with the stock brew thermostat when its on his "stock wiring". But when i change to make the PID do the job...nothing. So i suspect a faulty SSR. Also there is some kind of light bulb on the SSR, is this supposed to be on when the SSR has power?
I know its a lot asking, but i couldnt find the info on the net.
uummmmm, ask your local Starbucks?
I'm sorry of all my random knowledge I have, I have no knowledge about espresso, so i don't even know what to tell you.
I'm sorry of all my random knowledge I have, I have no knowledge about espresso, so i don't even know what to tell you.
ORIGINAL: MrFlippant
This gets my vote for Most Off Topic Thread Ever.
This gets my vote for Most Off Topic Thread Ever.
I would probably start by checking to see if the relay and controller have enough voltage & current going through them. Also check for continuity between all the parts.
ORIGINAL: 32_d3gr33s
I'd make sure that the hypertensionator is correctly hooked up to the gollypaloozle and that you have the zwiggywhomper turned on!!
I'd make sure that the hypertensionator is correctly hooked up to the gollypaloozle and that you have the zwiggywhomper turned on!!
In all seriousness though, once you've eliminated the possibility that the flux capacitor may be malfunctioning (and yes, a PID DOES have a flux capacitor in it -do your research, 32_d3gr33s
),try putting a voltage meter on the load side of your SSR. Then, run your espresso machine and PID as if you were going to brew some espresso, and watch and see if the voltage meter does anything. If it doesn't, then your SSR is not switching. I would imagine this is the case, since the light on the SSR is not coming on.
Also, I noticed you went with a 20A rather than 40A SSR like in the tutorial you followed. He said he thinks he could have saved a buck by getting a lower-current SSR, but maybe when you replace your SSR (if that turns out to be the issue), you should go ahead and get a 40A. It could be that using the lower-current SSR resulted in a fried MOSFET.
),try putting a voltage meter on the load side of your SSR. Then, run your espresso machine and PID as if you were going to brew some espresso, and watch and see if the voltage meter does anything. If it doesn't, then your SSR is not switching. I would imagine this is the case, since the light on the SSR is not coming on.Also, I noticed you went with a 20A rather than 40A SSR like in the tutorial you followed. He said he thinks he could have saved a buck by getting a lower-current SSR, but maybe when you replace your SSR (if that turns out to be the issue), you should go ahead and get a 40A. It could be that using the lower-current SSR resulted in a fried MOSFET.
the relay i used is in fact a 40A SSR, the one in the topic i took it from internet, didnt had the patience to take pictures of the actual SSR.



your comments made me laugh