Fan blade could be touching the bi-pipes? This was caused by after market bi-pipes on my car but the clearances are quite tight and it's possible you didn't get the bi-pipes up tight enough against the timing cover.

 

Get a mechanics stethescope and poke it around to pin point the noise.

 

If the noise wasn't present before the repair(s) then something has obviously gone wrong as a result of the repair(s).

Remove the valve cover of the side with the most noise and check everything...you'll
most likely find the culprit.

That should be the first step, regardless. Because this is the only thing
that has changed since before the noise became apparent.

 

Vote for the tensioner..

 

Grabbed a mechanics stethoscope and listened to both drivers and passenger side of the valve covers. They both sounded normal under all conditions. The noise seams to be coming from lower and further behind the engine. I could not hear anything to locate the noise. Any other ideas.

Noise is there at idle (temp independent) when the engine is reved, and at acceleration. constant RPM noise is gone.

 

Exhaust Leak...

 

That was the next thought, must just be a coincidence then with the work we did on the gaskets then?

 

did you bump the exhaust manifold with a wrench maybe? coulda knocked it loose a little bit..try and fit your hand down there and feel for exhaust

 

Check the 02 sensors for looseness or damage also

 

Noise was the gasket on the secondary Air Injector on passenger side. Gasket was on bottom but was rotated and not on the top. New gasket no noise. New issue is a strange noise on the secondary air injector for cold starts and code:
17819 - Secondary Air Injection System; Bank 2: Insufficient Flow
P1411 - 35-00 - -