A8L tiptronic automatic to manual 6-speed 01E
#23
small update
no further physical progress, im looking to buy a house so I can start working on this and enjoy this hobby!!!
i have rethought the tranny design. with the feedback some of you left about its strength, I gave it a thought. so instead of making the bell end steel ill pour it in aluminum. it will just be beefed up, it will be solid as opposed to the gussets and ribbing, so basically very very fat. the lightening cuts inside will be filled also, ill just machine for the shafts, gears, selectors, oil galley.
i have rethought the tranny design. with the feedback some of you left about its strength, I gave it a thought. so instead of making the bell end steel ill pour it in aluminum. it will just be beefed up, it will be solid as opposed to the gussets and ribbing, so basically very very fat. the lightening cuts inside will be filled also, ill just machine for the shafts, gears, selectors, oil galley.
#24
again no progress on the actual flywheel or build BUUUTT i did close on a nice little house. just a starter house but a house, im pretty preeettty pretty psyched. Half acre, decent garage and secluded. got a couple of Macks and ill be turning the garage into a machine shop here in about 4-5 months.
#25
I'm going to continue with machining figuring the Tilton flywheel later. I will just continue with this used stock dual mass flywheel. Until it breaks or I finish Tilton fly. It was pretty cheap and the used button clutches are all way up now. There were some parts I still needed.
Now on to rebuilding the motor and get them back together in The Flagship.
Now on to rebuilding the motor and get them back together in The Flagship.
#26
Swap motor instead
I've been away working on house and getting another vehicle running... I'm back.
still hesitate to condition these cylinders(previously posted block) so decided to just swap this motor that's running in.
I think I have everything... but time. Although I'll keep taking little steps here and there.
also got some other ideas, I'm thinking this is prefect for a rear turbo. I never like thought of adding any more forward weight on audis setup. but have wondered how much better the converter behind the axle in some of the newer audis handles. Want to put rear radiators, hung in a flow-through bumper. A air wing underhung as well. Roll cage. I'm wanting to keep this car very discreet. Id like to drive to/from the track without looking like it.
still hesitate to condition these cylinders(previously posted block) so decided to just swap this motor that's running in.
I think I have everything... but time. Although I'll keep taking little steps here and there.
also got some other ideas, I'm thinking this is prefect for a rear turbo. I never like thought of adding any more forward weight on audis setup. but have wondered how much better the converter behind the axle in some of the newer audis handles. Want to put rear radiators, hung in a flow-through bumper. A air wing underhung as well. Roll cage. I'm wanting to keep this car very discreet. Id like to drive to/from the track without looking like it.
Last edited by glenbjackson; 08-01-2023 at 03:46 PM.
#27
i will be looking into sway bars. anybody know where i could look for sway bars?
i removed motor ,fortunately it was just carbon buildup that had locked it. im broke at the moment so im going to experiment with reusing the head gaskets. im going to drill out three of the rivets, clean between really good and new head bolts and see if it'll hold. i think im going to test out the copper spray as well. new head bolts and correct gaskets comes to about 150. not bad at all shoutout to rockauto. i have to say.
has anyone rebuild the bearing in the center of the dual flywheel??? mine is gone i removed all the bearing successfully but thinking of a way to get them back in? OR machine a bronze bush??
i removed motor ,fortunately it was just carbon buildup that had locked it. im broke at the moment so im going to experiment with reusing the head gaskets. im going to drill out three of the rivets, clean between really good and new head bolts and see if it'll hold. i think im going to test out the copper spray as well. new head bolts and correct gaskets comes to about 150. not bad at all shoutout to rockauto. i have to say.
has anyone rebuild the bearing in the center of the dual flywheel??? mine is gone i removed all the bearing successfully but thinking of a way to get them back in? OR machine a bronze bush??
#28
i got heads on(new gaskets), flywheel fixed and lathe moved in. ill try to get it all topped off this weekend and then matted up to transmission.
Last edited by glenbjackson; 12-23-2023 at 07:20 PM.
#29
never thought id need nor want to go through the trouble of adding dry sump to anything. After some thought Im certain ill be going that route. Future projects as well, i got a mack going 4x4 for the king of hammers. A dry oil pan WILL solve one of my problems with heavy drive steer axles, really short wheelbase and driveshaft clearance.
also have a jeep wrangler YJ putting a ford 6.22l diesel in. Its pretty tall as well an in-line 6, so another problem solved there.
i dont know how the well the D2 is at weight distribution stock nor after i add plumbing, fill with fluids, turbo, and breathing pluming would i think it be best. So i may still benefit moving oil sump capacity to the rear. MMI and cd changer area??
ill be keeping spare, i think that's pretty important. Its interface between a road i cannot control maintenance.
Going to try to have separate and seal stages. other then motor oil sections, i want one for coolant and one for tranny oil. I was going to need seperate pumps anyway to get fluids to the rear mounted coolers. although contamination will be a risk........ so idk maybe not.
id have a small electric pump for everyday starting and priming oil.
anybody ever seen a 4.2 with a dry sump???
also have a jeep wrangler YJ putting a ford 6.22l diesel in. Its pretty tall as well an in-line 6, so another problem solved there.
i dont know how the well the D2 is at weight distribution stock nor after i add plumbing, fill with fluids, turbo, and breathing pluming would i think it be best. So i may still benefit moving oil sump capacity to the rear. MMI and cd changer area??
ill be keeping spare, i think that's pretty important. Its interface between a road i cannot control maintenance.
Going to try to have separate and seal stages. other then motor oil sections, i want one for coolant and one for tranny oil. I was going to need seperate pumps anyway to get fluids to the rear mounted coolers. although contamination will be a risk........ so idk maybe not.
id have a small electric pump for everyday starting and priming oil.
anybody ever seen a 4.2 with a dry sump???
Last edited by glenbjackson; 02-09-2024 at 08:30 PM.
#30
I'm no expert on air flow. So what is your opinion on dual air plenum and flapper. Should I keep for different lengths at different rpms and if I do should I use solenoid opened or closed OR with a servo gradually opening and closing paths?? I won't have vacuum with boost. Hmmm
Or just remove flaps and close off one of the paths??
I think I'm pump will fit above ac and steering pump, tight!!!
Motor could possibly sit 5 inches lower!!!
Removing upper oil pan and drop on some kind of thin but tough isolators.
Or just remove flaps and close off one of the paths??
I think I'm pump will fit above ac and steering pump, tight!!!
Motor could possibly sit 5 inches lower!!!
Removing upper oil pan and drop on some kind of thin but tough isolators.