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  #1  
Old 01-20-2013, 10:59 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2013
Posts: 13
Default Engine Temperature/ Transmission Shifting issue

I recently bought an 2003 Audi TT, 180hp (non Quattro) with Transverse Mounted 6 speed Tiptronic Transmissions. The engine "appears" to run a little hot (Temp. needle one notch right of middle notch) after warming up. Is this normal?

When the temperature needle moves to the right of the middle marker then the transmission starts to shift with a heavy jolt (un-smooth shifts). Is the transmission shifting related to the engine temperature? Do I have a sticky thermostat or a bad Coolant Temperature Sensor?

Thanks for any advise.
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  #2  
Old 01-27-2013, 07:56 AM
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Location: Pinellas Park, Florida
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you need to determine whether the temp gauge is reading correctly. you could also have a water pump that is failing. you didn't mention your milage.
the hard shifting is most likely valve body related. audi says that the transmission fluid is "lifetime". no fluid of any kind is lifetime. you should service your transmission every 20,000 miles. dirt and heat kill modern transmissions. fresh fluid and filter changes will prolong your transmission's life. if it's jerking and or slipping, revmax sells a rebuilt updated valve body that should cure your issue. my car had 170,000 miles and shifted poorly from 1 to 2, 2 to 3rd gear. i installed the updated valve body and the car now shifts like new.
Good luck!
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  #3  
Old 01-28-2013, 10:00 PM
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Thanks for your reply, I changed the VB and shifting is smooth. Now got to deal with the cooling issue. Thanks again.
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  #4  
Old 01-29-2013, 08:33 AM
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That's great news! please keep us updated as to what you find the overheating problem to be. i plan to start disassembling mine today to do the waterpump, timing belt, oil pump and cam chain and tensioner. i will be doing a thread on what i find as i've not done much work on european imports. it will be in the overheating thread that i started last week if you want to check it out.
tom
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Tiptronic 6 speed transmission.
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  #5  
Old 01-31-2013, 03:02 PM
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Red face

OK, I have the thermostat out, checked it against a new unit by putting them in hot water. Both of them (Old and new) open at the same time (just before boiling). I guess it should be the pump then. But service records indicate a new pump was installed in the summer of 2011. Just 10K miles ago.
Dread doing the timing belt and water pump now. Tired, haven't even recovered from the Valve Body job from last weekend.
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  #6  
Old 01-31-2013, 09:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Clrwatrtom View Post
That's great news! please keep us updated as to what you find the overheating problem to be. i plan to start disassembling mine today to do the waterpump, timing belt, oil pump and cam chain and tensioner. i will be doing a thread on what i find as i've not done much work on european imports. it will be in the overheating thread that i started last week if you want to check it out.
tom
I pulled out the water pump, it has a plastic impeller, but looks like in very good condition. Impeller is fixed tightly on the shaft. This pump was installed in the summer of 2011.
Now I am really confused, thermostat is Ok and Water pump is also OK, so what could be the reason for over heating?
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  #7  
Old 02-06-2013, 12:38 PM
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I replaced all parts related to overheating a few times. I think it may be the fault of bad aftermarket parts.. Who knows. The last fix that fixed it was the Fan Control Module. Could also be the fan switch in the radiator, or the fans themselves. FCM and switch are pretty cheap fixes.
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  #8  
Old 02-08-2013, 02:42 PM
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Are you sure it is running hot? The most common cause of this is the temperature sensor itself. A $15 part that is easy to replace. Confirm the temp using the HVAC readout to confirm that you aren't reacting to faulty info...
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  #9  
Old 02-08-2013, 03:04 PM
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I wonder if your radiator is partially plugged, which would reduce it's efficiency and make it run hotter than it should even if the fan works. A friend of mine with a Mercedes Benz used some factory citric acid powder that the dealer sells. He flushed his system with this and was amazed at the crud that came out of his cooling system. If you have an infrared temp gauge can you run the car and see what temps you get on your radiator? I would think you'd get consistently different temps from left to right unless there was a partial blockage in the top, middle or bottom portion of the radiator.
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  #10  
Old 02-11-2013, 08:25 PM
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Ok, so I installed a new timing belt. Then went out and bought a new infrared temperature measurement device from Harbor Freight and checked the engine temperature as the engine warms up. Looks like the temperature measuring sensor is bad. This is because the thermostat opens up just before 100 Deg C. Next project is to change the sensor and verify that this is indeed the case.
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  #11  
Old 02-15-2013, 05:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gaber6 View Post
I replaced all parts related to overheating a few times. I think it may be the fault of bad aftermarket parts.. Who knows. The last fix that fixed it was the Fan Control Module. Could also be the fan switch in the radiator, or the fans themselves. FCM and switch are pretty cheap fixes.
After checking it is now clear that the larger cooling fan (drivers side) does not run. All fuses are OK, the smaller one runs when engine is hot and also when AC is running but the larger one does not run.

Where is the fan control module located? How to check if it is bad or if the fan itself is bad. Thanks.
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  #12  
Old 02-16-2013, 06:34 AM
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Location: Pinellas Park, Florida
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the fcm is underneath the battery box. i would put 12v on the connection to the large fan disconnected from the fcm harness and directly from your battery or a 12v DC source to test.
mine was blown so i bought a Dorman replacement fan shroud assembly from autozone and fans work properly. Unfortunately, i believe it is my waterpump that is bad. i'm still in the midst of changing that out and i'm working 2 jobs so i haven't had much time to work on the car.
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2003 TT Coupe, Mauritius Blue exterior aniseed yellow and ebony interior.
Tiptronic 6 speed transmission.
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  #13  
Old 02-17-2013, 04:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Clrwatrtom View Post
the fcm is underneath the battery box. i would put 12v on the connection to the large fan disconnected from the fcm harness and directly from your battery or a 12v DC source to test.
mine was blown so i bought a Dorman replacement fan shroud assembly from autozone and fans work properly. Unfortunately, i believe it is my waterpump that is bad. i'm still in the midst of changing that out and i'm working 2 jobs so i haven't had much time to work on the car.
Can you please briefly explain how one removes the fan. Looks like the fan shroud is fixed with 4 screws, the uppers one are accessible from the top but the lower ones can only be accessed from the bottom?
Looks like the upper radiator hose is in the way, does this have to be removed?
Thanks for your help.
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  #14  
Old 02-19-2013, 07:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by magarmuch View Post
Can you please briefly explain how one removes the fan. Looks like the fan shroud is fixed with 4 screws, the uppers one are accessible from the top but the lower ones can only be accessed from the bottom?
Looks like the upper radiator hose is in the way, does this have to be removed?
Thanks for your help.
sorry it's been so long to reply. remove the 4 screws, disconnect the fan connections and the radiator mounted temp sensor. jack the car up, remove the tubular lower frame support/225hp intercooler tube held in with 3 bolts on each side. you'll also have to drop the power steering cooler from this support and let it dangle. then you can get the fan shroud out from the bottom. it isn't easy, but it can be done. with a little ingenuity, you can test both fans without removing the shroud from the radiator. it will take some long leads but it can be done quite easily. be creative, and have fun.
tom
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Tiptronic 6 speed transmission.
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Old 02-19-2013, 07:30 PM
 
 
 
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2000, 2003, audi, body, engine, hot, related, rough, runs, shifting, temp, temperature, trans, transmission, tt, valve


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