I would not advise you to try and splice into the circuit near the ignition switch. Splice in AFTER the fuses where there are two separate circuits for the headlights, one for the driver side, and one for the passenger side.

I would highly recommend for you to get a working understanding of relays before diving further into this. A relay just acts as a switch. It takes a low power signal input and opens or closes the relay which then sends power to the connected device. It's a switch activated by a switch that diverts the large power draw of the headlights away from the dinky headlight switch contact.

Cut the wires after the fuse box. The relay gets wired in between the fuse box and the headlights. The signal from the headlight switch merely activates the relays which are drawing their power from a different circuit (75x).

With all due respect, I have very clearly laid out the entire headlight circuit form start to finish with pin numbers, fuse designations, and wire colors, I'm not going to retype all of that.

Well, the OEM fuses are 10 amps. I went with 5 amps simply because they did not blow. Generally, you want the smallest fuse possible for a given load to minimize risk. Since the OEM fuses are 10 amps, I will try switching out my 5 amp fuses for 10s, though I don't expect to see any difference in light output.

I do not use HIDs and cannot advise you on their fuses or power requirements.

 

Before I begin. Did my picture populated? I did not notice being there now.

Moving on, Yes, I understand relays..plenty of diagrams on google to permanently etch into my head.

See, I guess I still did not found what I was looking for and that is..

WHAT is the wire that is going from the switch to the headlight?

I do not know,

What I DO know is that there is a medium guage wire that is coming from the ignition TO my switch, BTW that is how long it is, and If you looked at the pictures.. It looks its burned to ****.

I'm on my third (3) switch.. U should see my frustration.. lol

Second thing I do NOT know is, what exactly is the function of that Yellow wire with black stripe coming from the ignition switch to my light switch.

Those TWO things I do not know..

Understanding relays is not an issue..

Its the wirring, which wirring should we be dealing with, Is it the yellow and black stripe or are there more? since these audi switches, power can be going in with one wire and arriving to the headlight with ANOTHER wire type/color..

this is my primary concern.. the wirring colors and pathway.

thnks

as you can see from my uploaded pictures, I have something that eating my switches and it got to the point it burned the plastic conector, I had solder in a new one..

I have attached/uploaded 3 images for everyone to see hoping someone knows whats going on, and what im talking about..

 

this is the wire from the ignition switch.. that is burning ma sheet

 

The damage you have is beyond the normal failure of the headlight switch contact. Something is causing a short bad enough to completely melt the plastic off that pin. Check all the wires for broken insulation. At a minimum, you should replace that plug, you might get away with keeping the switch assembly, but it could very well be fried too. No way for me to diagnose that with pictures unfortunately.

 

I like your soldier jig.

 

Blast from the past, waking up a dead thread.

So... any reason why you didn't also add relays for the high beams? There's 4 fuses for headlights in my fuse box, 2 for the low beams and 2 for the high beams.

Also, I was concerned that the low draw from the relays might trigger the headlight warning in the info center. Is that not the case?

Just wanted to get my ducks in a row before I start rewiring stuff.

 

To follow up on my previous post: I ended up adding 4 relays, 2 for the low beams and 2 for the high beams. There's more than enough free relay slots under the dash. I have a 2005 Passat that I've been grabbing parts from, and it had all the relays and relay sockets I needed, with all the wiring that goes along with it. I also added a relay for DRLs (turns on my LED DRLs while the engine is running, turns them off when headlights or parking brake is on), and a relay for retained accessory power (provides power after I turn the car off until I open the doors), and a relay that temporarily kills my amps while cranking the engine without turning off my head unit. So that's 7 new relays, all in OEM spots

 

Hello, my husband bought 2016 Audi Q7, I want to connect android via smartphone, so my friend uses. Tell me how to do this, please?
Who has read the forum before, knows my misfortune. I tried on how to connect the phone to the onboard computer, but now I've gone through a lot of sites, spent a lot of time searching for where the headlight can be for my car can be. Finally I found it, that's it - https://www.uzooka.com/audi-headlights. Now I have time to fix it.

 

Good Morning Base Drifter, Where are the '75x' posts you are picking up the power for relays? Does that also send the juice to headlights? Finally (hoping) why keep the ignition switch in line? I've got the dash panels out, everything exposed but am not very confident of my ability to put the bypass together, install, solder and have it work as expected. My cousin Tom who runs cattle on my place here was a mechanic for a lot of years but he also is leery. Now I'm fighting rat nests and acorn left overs under the hood and really need to get this done.
I was thinking of bypassing ignition switch with fused power direct from battery as a simpler method that I can accomplish. Thanks in advance for tips, pointers in one direction or other. If you are interested I'd be more than willing to trade use of our picnic grounds or some dirt/grass drifting on the ranch. I'd be sure to have all the parts on hand and could add some cash. Thinking in text at the moment. Let me know, Thx again.
Marty

 

75x is under the dash, remove the panel under your steering wheel. It's where all the relays reside. There are 3 terminals at the far left, usually labeled 75X (in yellow), 30 and 30 (yes, 2x 30s, in red). The 30s are constant power, the 75X is switched power. Almost all electrical items inside the car are powered from those two sources, including headlights.

Your other questions are weird and I don't understand them. You need the original headlight switch to control the headlights. You're only adding relays to take the load off the original switch.