Common problems
Hello,
I am the new owner of an 03 allroad. 55k on it. 1 owner, dealer maintained. Before I purchased it I took it to an Audi dealer and spent a few bucks on an inspection, 250 to be exact. They spent about 3 hours on it and did the same inspection they give to their vehicles before selling as CPO. Everything came back super mint,,save for a couple things like filters that are in need of replacement (fuel and cabin) aleak in the washer fluid (I think in the reservoir seal) and p-break cables they said were on the way out. No fault codes or problems with engine, tranny, supspension etc...
So I feel very good about the purchase and even though I have only driven maybe 20 miles in this thing I love it!!
I do plan on doing some upgrades (402, tip-chip & emu ecm chip) but will live with it stock for awhile. Any advise on what to do/not do?
My question: are there any prventative measures I can take to try and keep it this way? I have read all about the weak spots and am comfortable with high maintenance cars having owned audi's in the past and Jaguars. My 87 vw has been super reliable for me and I work on it almost everytime it's driven
Just looking for input from all you experienced ar owners/users. Thanks in advance.
I am the new owner of an 03 allroad. 55k on it. 1 owner, dealer maintained. Before I purchased it I took it to an Audi dealer and spent a few bucks on an inspection, 250 to be exact. They spent about 3 hours on it and did the same inspection they give to their vehicles before selling as CPO. Everything came back super mint,,save for a couple things like filters that are in need of replacement (fuel and cabin) aleak in the washer fluid (I think in the reservoir seal) and p-break cables they said were on the way out. No fault codes or problems with engine, tranny, supspension etc...
So I feel very good about the purchase and even though I have only driven maybe 20 miles in this thing I love it!!
I do plan on doing some upgrades (402, tip-chip & emu ecm chip) but will live with it stock for awhile. Any advise on what to do/not do?
My question: are there any prventative measures I can take to try and keep it this way? I have read all about the weak spots and am comfortable with high maintenance cars having owned audi's in the past and Jaguars. My 87 vw has been super reliable for me and I work on it almost everytime it's driven

Just looking for input from all you experienced ar owners/users. Thanks in advance.
Your efforts to identify All Road problems is greatly appreicated.
I want to know if anyone has replaced the troublesome suspension with something more reliable, like coilovers.
I realize some may not want to eliminate the ride height function, but I would be satisfied with one highway setting.
Can you direct me to someone with experience?
Many thanks,
Bruce Powers
I want to know if anyone has replaced the troublesome suspension with something more reliable, like coilovers.
I realize some may not want to eliminate the ride height function, but I would be satisfied with one highway setting.
Can you direct me to someone with experience?
Many thanks,
Bruce Powers
Your efforts to identify All Road problems is greatly appreicated.
I want to know if anyone has replaced the troublesome suspension with something more reliable, like coilovers.
I realize some may not want to eliminate the ride height function, but I would be satisfied with one highway setting.
Can you direct me to someone with experience?
Many thanks,
Bruce Powers
I want to know if anyone has replaced the troublesome suspension with something more reliable, like coilovers.
I realize some may not want to eliminate the ride height function, but I would be satisfied with one highway setting.
Can you direct me to someone with experience?
Many thanks,
Bruce Powers
http://allroadfaq.com/downloads/mods...d_coilover.pdf
i drive a 2004 2.7T Allroad ...i love driving this car, but have started to have some serious probs with it - its got 75,000 kms on it ( ~ 45k miles) ... had to replace the torque converter last year ($4000 CDN) and recently have heard a hi pitched whining when decelerating .. the dealer was left scratching their heads, another shop i take it too found the noise coming from the tail housing and a bunch of metal shavings in the tranny fluid ... yikes ! = recomended replacing tranny.
E) and finally the turbos
Like any audi engine changing the timing belt and water pump at 80K is a must, you risk breaking the timing belt and bending valves if you don't. You should also change the thermostat and serpintine belt at the 80k mark.
CV boots will most likely be cracked and spilling grease on the inside of your front wheels around this time as well.
After the 120k mark you might notice a strange noise like a police siren or a dentists drill indicating that your turbos have just blown up on you. This repair will cost you close to 10 grand to fix. Sorry about that.
Can you elaborate on the strange noise? I have a strange noise on my '03 and it is occasional, not all the time? Also, don't have 10k to fix, and not a mechanic, so what
will happen to the car if I continue to drive it?
Like any audi engine changing the timing belt and water pump at 80K is a must, you risk breaking the timing belt and bending valves if you don't. You should also change the thermostat and serpintine belt at the 80k mark.
CV boots will most likely be cracked and spilling grease on the inside of your front wheels around this time as well.
After the 120k mark you might notice a strange noise like a police siren or a dentists drill indicating that your turbos have just blown up on you. This repair will cost you close to 10 grand to fix. Sorry about that.
Can you elaborate on the strange noise? I have a strange noise on my '03 and it is occasional, not all the time? Also, don't have 10k to fix, and not a mechanic, so what
will happen to the car if I continue to drive it?
Wanted to ck in and discover if anyone has ever had this problem. If sitting idle at a light or stop sign the Allroad 2.7T will just shutdown, I'll restart and all works fine. On a rare occasion while driving less than 20mph the engine will shutdown for just an instant/restart it self cause I'm still giving it bit gas, all warning lights come on as it does an initial start up then go away a few seconds afterward.
Is this a bad fuel issue/carbon build up that is causing some code to kick in or the use of an injector cleaner (Lucas)? Cause I don't have a clue.
thanks to all.
Is this a bad fuel issue/carbon build up that is causing some code to kick in or the use of an injector cleaner (Lucas)? Cause I don't have a clue.
thanks to all.
Just to add.....
I have come across some things you can do (abeit cro-magnon-ish) to aleviate some of the oil leaks.
All of you must understand that the PCV system is only part of a huge problem that has been left un-remedied by Audi. The 2.7T uses "low" tension oil rings meaning that oil consumption is not something to worry about if you have it. Leaks on the other hand are a different story.
The easiest way to explain this is the following;
Low tension oil rings allow blow by and oil consumption to occur. This in turn leads to oil sludging as exhaust gasses are then passing through the crankcase.
You can check your PCV system by removing the connector from the intake, removing the oil cap and using an air compressor, blow a small amount of air into the valve. You should be able to feel the air coming out of the oil filler port. If you cant, clean the PCV tubes. Now comes the ghetto part. Give that pcv valve a kiss by blowing into it with the oil cap on. If you can feel back pressure in the valve, your oil cap is NOT relieving excess pressure. You either have a faulty oil cap or you need to upgrade to the updated "vented" oil cap. If you want it to be stylish, the R8 oil filler cap is vented and has chrome-ish trim. It will also run you about $60.
Because of this the 2.7T has an elaborate PCV system that is not just very expensive to replace but is just too small. The tubes get clogged and the valve itself loads with gunk and eventually stops working. This leads to oil consumption, oil in the intercoolers, leaking cam, crank, CCT and cam plug seals. The PCV valve CANNOT be purchased without the "spider" on later models and can run $180-$300 to replace. There is an alternative.
A few years ago, VW and Audi released a "band-aid" repair to this problem, the remedy was to clean as much of the "spider" as you could and then replace the parts you couldn't clean. They then started producing an oil cap that was VENTED. This venting allowed the pressure in the crankcase to be relieved without the PCV actually working.
Easiest way to check for this cap is to look at the underside of your cap, you should have a part # of 078 103 485 with an "E" in an indented area just to the right of the part number.
The updated oil cap with the vent is 078 103 485 with an "F" in the indented area. These can be had the cheapest from www.genuinevwaudiparts.com @ $20.99 + shipping.
Unfortunately, you still have to replace all of your leaking gaskets and seals but this remedy will alleviate some if not all of your oil leaks. I was replacing all of my seals about every 12k until I found this problem. I have 25k on this repair and my '04 allroad is still squeaky clean underneath.
I have come across some things you can do (abeit cro-magnon-ish) to aleviate some of the oil leaks.
All of you must understand that the PCV system is only part of a huge problem that has been left un-remedied by Audi. The 2.7T uses "low" tension oil rings meaning that oil consumption is not something to worry about if you have it. Leaks on the other hand are a different story.
The easiest way to explain this is the following;
Low tension oil rings allow blow by and oil consumption to occur. This in turn leads to oil sludging as exhaust gasses are then passing through the crankcase.
You can check your PCV system by removing the connector from the intake, removing the oil cap and using an air compressor, blow a small amount of air into the valve. You should be able to feel the air coming out of the oil filler port. If you cant, clean the PCV tubes. Now comes the ghetto part. Give that pcv valve a kiss by blowing into it with the oil cap on. If you can feel back pressure in the valve, your oil cap is NOT relieving excess pressure. You either have a faulty oil cap or you need to upgrade to the updated "vented" oil cap. If you want it to be stylish, the R8 oil filler cap is vented and has chrome-ish trim. It will also run you about $60.
Because of this the 2.7T has an elaborate PCV system that is not just very expensive to replace but is just too small. The tubes get clogged and the valve itself loads with gunk and eventually stops working. This leads to oil consumption, oil in the intercoolers, leaking cam, crank, CCT and cam plug seals. The PCV valve CANNOT be purchased without the "spider" on later models and can run $180-$300 to replace. There is an alternative.
A few years ago, VW and Audi released a "band-aid" repair to this problem, the remedy was to clean as much of the "spider" as you could and then replace the parts you couldn't clean. They then started producing an oil cap that was VENTED. This venting allowed the pressure in the crankcase to be relieved without the PCV actually working.
Easiest way to check for this cap is to look at the underside of your cap, you should have a part # of 078 103 485 with an "E" in an indented area just to the right of the part number.
The updated oil cap with the vent is 078 103 485 with an "F" in the indented area. These can be had the cheapest from www.genuinevwaudiparts.com @ $20.99 + shipping.
Unfortunately, you still have to replace all of your leaking gaskets and seals but this remedy will alleviate some if not all of your oil leaks. I was replacing all of my seals about every 12k until I found this problem. I have 25k on this repair and my '04 allroad is still squeaky clean underneath.
The updated oil cap with the vent is 078 103 485 with an "F" in the indented area. These can be had the cheapest from www.genuinevwaudiparts.com @ $20.99 + shipping..


