FS: 1997 A4 2.8Q, 5-sp. in S.E. Mass.
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FS: 1997 A4 2.8Q, 5-sp. in S.E. Mass.
For Sale: 1997 A4 Quattro, 2.8 6-Cylinder, 5-Speed Manual.
Located in Southeastern (Fairhaven), Massachusetts. It’s Black with black leather interior. Wood grain dash, heated seats, A/C, Bose amplified system(stock head unit). 210,000 miles. The car has no observable rust, but the paint has signs of wear and abuse. The ABS/Brake lights are lit, but there are no other current CELs. There are some other issues, so please read on…
I bought this car because I love VWs and Audis, and I needed a daily driver. It worked out great for a while. The engine runs smooth, sounds great, rides really good. Unfortunately, I needed to buy a vehicle that had tow capabilities as well. Besides, I already have Mk2 GTI gathering dust in my garage...
I aim for full disclosure here, so I’m telling you everything I know about the car. I have some, but not all the history of this car. I do have a carfax report on it. I bought it from a friend’s family, after my friend passed away. I know he owned it for a few months and had a bunch of stuff done. As mentioned, it has almost 210,000 miles, but the engine is so strong and smooth, that it HAD to have been replaced at some point. But I have no idea if it was, or when the last timing belt was done, or anything.
A bunch of little things are wrong, as it sat for about 6 months before I got it. I just don’t need another car right now. It’s been sitting since June, and is not registered.
The key fob doesn’t work. You cannot turn the alarm on or off, nor do the doors open remotely. You’d have to get another key AND have it programmed. The key obviously works fine to lock and unlock the doors (and turn on the alarm) manually.
Also, like most B5s, the ABS & Brake lights are on. It has no effect on actual braking. This is a common occurrence and is detailed in many DIY & Tech threads. You can either get a used sensor (Part No for the whole unit: 8D0 614 111 D), or you can send this car’s unit away for repair for $200 (www.modulemaster.com).
Here are some other issues:
-Needs Wheel Center Cap for drivers side rear wheel) (Part No: 8D0 601 170 A)
-O2 Sensor CEL Code – Driver’s Side Pre-Cat failure. This code came on once, and since the CELS were erased (over 1,000 miles ago), it hasn’t come back on.
-The channels for Sunroof are cracked. Roof will tilt open and shut, but will not slide open all the way. I don’t know if they can be replaced, but there is a part number that I have found.
-Passenger side headlamp washer cover is broke. Someone epoxied it to the bumper and will not raise up.
That same washer has a leak, and the washer fluid pretty much leaks right out of it. I’ll try to repair this.
-There’s a small tear beginning to form on the driver’s side seat bolster
-The driver’s side has been keyed – not too deep, but enough to see.
-The rear bumper has a pretty good-sized scuff on the lower passenger side.
-Clunking in front end (maybe struts or lower tie rod)
-Needs alignment (after upper tie rod was done)
-Clutch grabs pretty high (it’s a non-adjustable hydraulic clutch).
Seriously, it’s a really nice-looking and nice-driving car. I hate to get rid of it, but I need to have a new, ultra-reliable car if I have a project. Also, I also have my GTI, which I’d rather be spending money on. I’d like to get $2,800, which is less than I bought it for and put into it. I'm not really interested in trades, but I'm willing to negotiate price with serious buyers.
Since I’ve gotten it, it’s got driver’s side upper tie rod, driver’s side rear wheel bearing, oil & filter change at 207,000 with Mobil 1 Synthetic 5w-40, air filter, clear fender blinkers and smoked tail lights.
Again, the car IS NOT registered or insured. You’ll have to get repair/dealer plates, tow it, or risk putting your own plates on and driving it. Due to this, I can’t meet anywhere, the car would have to picked up in Fairhaven, MA.
I am NOT parting this out. It’s sold as a complete vehicle only.
I can send additional pics, or respond if you have questions (aj02719@comcast.net)
.
Thanks,
Dr. Deny (Jonesy)
Located in Southeastern (Fairhaven), Massachusetts. It’s Black with black leather interior. Wood grain dash, heated seats, A/C, Bose amplified system(stock head unit). 210,000 miles. The car has no observable rust, but the paint has signs of wear and abuse. The ABS/Brake lights are lit, but there are no other current CELs. There are some other issues, so please read on…
I bought this car because I love VWs and Audis, and I needed a daily driver. It worked out great for a while. The engine runs smooth, sounds great, rides really good. Unfortunately, I needed to buy a vehicle that had tow capabilities as well. Besides, I already have Mk2 GTI gathering dust in my garage...
I aim for full disclosure here, so I’m telling you everything I know about the car. I have some, but not all the history of this car. I do have a carfax report on it. I bought it from a friend’s family, after my friend passed away. I know he owned it for a few months and had a bunch of stuff done. As mentioned, it has almost 210,000 miles, but the engine is so strong and smooth, that it HAD to have been replaced at some point. But I have no idea if it was, or when the last timing belt was done, or anything.
A bunch of little things are wrong, as it sat for about 6 months before I got it. I just don’t need another car right now. It’s been sitting since June, and is not registered.
The key fob doesn’t work. You cannot turn the alarm on or off, nor do the doors open remotely. You’d have to get another key AND have it programmed. The key obviously works fine to lock and unlock the doors (and turn on the alarm) manually.
Also, like most B5s, the ABS & Brake lights are on. It has no effect on actual braking. This is a common occurrence and is detailed in many DIY & Tech threads. You can either get a used sensor (Part No for the whole unit: 8D0 614 111 D), or you can send this car’s unit away for repair for $200 (www.modulemaster.com).
Here are some other issues:
-Needs Wheel Center Cap for drivers side rear wheel) (Part No: 8D0 601 170 A)
-O2 Sensor CEL Code – Driver’s Side Pre-Cat failure. This code came on once, and since the CELS were erased (over 1,000 miles ago), it hasn’t come back on.
-The channels for Sunroof are cracked. Roof will tilt open and shut, but will not slide open all the way. I don’t know if they can be replaced, but there is a part number that I have found.
-Passenger side headlamp washer cover is broke. Someone epoxied it to the bumper and will not raise up.
That same washer has a leak, and the washer fluid pretty much leaks right out of it. I’ll try to repair this.
-There’s a small tear beginning to form on the driver’s side seat bolster
-The driver’s side has been keyed – not too deep, but enough to see.
-The rear bumper has a pretty good-sized scuff on the lower passenger side.
-Clunking in front end (maybe struts or lower tie rod)
-Needs alignment (after upper tie rod was done)
-Clutch grabs pretty high (it’s a non-adjustable hydraulic clutch).
Seriously, it’s a really nice-looking and nice-driving car. I hate to get rid of it, but I need to have a new, ultra-reliable car if I have a project. Also, I also have my GTI, which I’d rather be spending money on. I’d like to get $2,800, which is less than I bought it for and put into it. I'm not really interested in trades, but I'm willing to negotiate price with serious buyers.
Since I’ve gotten it, it’s got driver’s side upper tie rod, driver’s side rear wheel bearing, oil & filter change at 207,000 with Mobil 1 Synthetic 5w-40, air filter, clear fender blinkers and smoked tail lights.
Again, the car IS NOT registered or insured. You’ll have to get repair/dealer plates, tow it, or risk putting your own plates on and driving it. Due to this, I can’t meet anywhere, the car would have to picked up in Fairhaven, MA.
I am NOT parting this out. It’s sold as a complete vehicle only.
I can send additional pics, or respond if you have questions (aj02719@comcast.net)
.
Thanks,
Dr. Deny (Jonesy)
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