Okay,

I've now had the OEM "B" and "C" DV's, as well as the Eurocode DV. Now it's time to put this DV need to rest with the new Forge DV. The OEM valves worked well but ripped too easy and I needed something that's a little more dependable. The Eurocode DV runs off of the vacuum line, which is the same as the Forge, but the Forge also uses a Solenoid that takes signal from the OEM wiring harness, where the Eurocode just has a "pot" installed to fool the ECU. The sound is different between DV and I noticed that the sound of the EC was a lot more pronounced and seemed to last longer on the blow-off, compared to the OEM. When you force the valve open on the EC, it is noticeably heavier and harder to move than the OEM, and the Forge. I was pleasantly surprised by how lightly the Forge valve works. It is definitely a nice piece. I just got the valve today and decided to install it prior to my wife taking the car to Northern California tomorrow. I have some install pictures attached and I'll update the top of the engine with the vacuum tapping later since that was already done for the Eurocode DV.




Here is everything that comes in the box. They include good directions, but a couple things bugged me. First off, there isn't nearly enough vacuum hose to do this install. Fortunately, I had a vacuum line install from the EC DV. Secondly, the bracket that the Solenoid attaches to wasn't machined properly and the holes were off-center. I worked with it a bit and got it to work.



First thing to do is to open the hood, jack up the car and put it on jack stands, remove the tire and the two plastic pieces that make up the wheel well.



This is the Eurocode DV that is currently installed. The OEM unit has one wiring harness that unclips very easily, then there are 3 - 5mm allen bolts that will need to be removed to release the DV.

Clean the area if there is any oil or debris prior to installing the new DV.



This is the Forge DV after I installed the first bolt to hold it in place. Next, install the second bolt that holds the bracket with the Solenoid, then install the third bolt. I used a little locktite on the bolts to make sure they don't come loose. After you have all of the bolts tight, then run the final vacuum line to the top of the engine and connect the wiring harness.

***Complete the vacuum line tap***

Check all of your connections again, then fire up the engine to make sure everything works properly before putting all of the shrouds back on.



Final Forge DV installation picture.

I made some runs after install and was very happy that the boost held very well and the blow-off was very very quick compared to the Eurocode DV. I assume that it's because the Forge is made of lighter materials and reacts more quickly. It has the same sound and driveability as the OEM. I'm happy to have this instead of the Eurocode, but that one worked well too.

Cheers!

 

You didn't zip-tie any of the vacuum lines? What's the red stuff used for, in the picture of all the parts?

When I installed my Forge BOV (Spacer) on the OEM DV, those 3x 5mm bolts where a pain to get out and back in. I mean they were in a tight spot but I mean they were so hard to screw in and out. Is that cause they probably were installed with locktite in the factory? I was concerned that I was maybe cross threading them. Is that possible to do?

 

I didn't zip tie the two lines between the solenoid and the DV because they will kink. I originally ran a couple short lines between the two, then when I mounted the plate to the DV, the lines kinked. You need to have enough lines for a decent curve so it maintains flow, but none of those lines interfer with anything or touch any hot components. The wiring harness and the vacuum line from the top are secured by zip tie, but it's not obvious in the picture. BTW, the Forge kit didn't come with any zip ties.

The red stuff in the packet is grease and it has an "O" ring that is used only with the Forge BOV spacer.

I used locktite on the EC DV so my bolts were a little stiff coming out too, but they went back in very easily. That top bolt was a PITA the first two times, but this time was very easy for some reason? Maybe practice has helped? I could probably do this from start to finish in 1 1/2 hours on a totally stock car now. It's not a hard mod, but take your time, especially around the vacuum lines or you can break that "T" fitting.

I'll have the vacuum tap procedure in next week when my car returns.

Oh yeah, the one cool thing about the vacuum tap on the Forge DV is they give you 3 tap points off of the "T". Also, one of the taps is very small for the boost gauge, and the others "normal" size for running the DV, and an extra component. You can close off 1 or 2 if needed.

Cheers!

 

http://www.savepic.com/freepictureho...g=forge_DV.jpg



You've reached your bandwidth limit for this month please upgrade. [&o]

 

Yeah I was in another forum and they said the package came with NO zip ties as well. I'll have to make sure when I order my DV (later down the track) I have a stock pile of them So since I have the Forge BOV, looks like I'll be using the red goop I've broken the Brake Boost once already when I installed the AWE Boost Gauge I wouldn't plan on doing it again. I also like the fact that Forge give 3 tap points for extra vacuum applications Since I'm still not chipped, cause I'm waiting on my Stealth system from APR, been over 4 weeks now [:'(] I won't be looking at this mod for at least a few months. Also need to save up some $$$ since I have coilovers, exhaust and chipping coming up this or next month (depending on when they decide to deliver the parts)

 

Pictures fixed. (sorry about the fuzzy final picture. I was just in a hurry to put it back together)

Cheers!

 

You are cooking Chef!

See Chef – I can give a compliment with no sarcasm, just being nice!

PS: It is rare so enjoy it!

Cheers

 

Hey Chef, just curious how your valve is holding up after a month and a half. Have your impressions changed at all? Noticed anything else since your initial write up? Thanks!

 

I think it's the best DV for our cars....PERIOD! I get OEM driveability and my boost is spiking at 22lbs and holding 19-20lbs. The blow off response is quick, and very light compared to the Eurocode. I'm very happy with the move and no longer worry about my DV, or have plans on changing it out, even with the big turbo upgrade.

How's that for a firm reassurance??? LOL

Cheers!

 

Thanks alot! That's what I was hoping to hear