Hey all,

Hoping to find an answer to a new problem that just showed up today. Under full throttle i'm losing boost, only ~10psi is possible and i can hear air going through the divert valve, like it opened for a shift, but it stays open under throttle. Is this what happens when the DV blows? I still have the stock DV and have had the car chipped with APR software for about a year now, 16000 miles, maybe 12,000 or so chipped miles. Under light acceleration everything is fine, only has a problem under full throttle. Thoughts?

 

Most likely your DV has failed. If you've got 12k after the chip tune, I'm surprised the DV held on this long! You could try taking it to the dealer and having the valve replaced under warranty (Audi has released several revisions of progressively stronger valves) but if they start digging around and discover your chip tune the part probably won't be covered -- not to mention that it may complicate any future warranty claims. You could buy the newest OEM valve, but it would probably cost just as much as getting a nice Forge DV.

 

Yea sounds like the DV has self destructed. Like BAMF said you're lucky to last that long on the stock one. Skip the dealer and just order yourself a forged DV to avoid this in the future and if you plan to mod anymore. They run around $140 or so which isnt too bad, lucky its not a 2.7T!

 

forge dv's at $140!?

 

if this happens does the car throw a cel??
i drove my car really conservativaly for 300miles and now my car seems as if it just wont pull away and doesnt chrip in 4th, i dont have a boost gague so i really cant tell. Im chipped with a k&n drop in any ideas

 

Sorry $160. APR just had a sale that brought them down to around $140.

http://www.goapr.com/Audi/products/r1.html

 

unfortunately APR wont do me any good on a 2.0T(a3) so i think I will have to end up ordering the god awful expensive Forge valve. Thanks for the advice!

 

Yeah, but the Forge DV is really nice. It is definitely a good investment if you plan on keeping the car for any length of time. I've had mine for about 10k miles and it's a dream, light and responsive, just like the OEM, but made from billet aluminum.



Cheers!

 

Woop sorry forgot about the R1 is for mainly 2.7's

 

can never go wrong with chef's advice!

think i will try to warranty the stock piece, then save it just in case i ever want/need to go back to stock.