1st mod. recommendation for FWD non-sport
My bizarre albeit wonderful little 1.8t with sport steering but no sport suspension has just received its 1st mod.
I highly recommend this to anyone who has the same type vehicle, FWD non-sport. I was able to purchase both front and rear sway bar from a similar quattro with sport. After investigation and inspection I decided that the solid rear axle did not need any further supporting, that it would be very difficult to add the rear bar on this vehicle.
So I decided to give the front bar an inspection. The sport bar is some 10mm larger than the non sport.
With a 13mm and a 3/8 socket I removed the stock and replaced it with the sport bar. First thing I noticed is that the mounting bracket and bushing have to be replaced as they are made to accomidate a much smaller piece.
Non the less I have it a shot.
Well let me say I just returned from the test drive and I could not be happier! The car has a much better attitude when turning and there was very little loss turning quickness or understeer. The car would dip and lean like a Buick in the simpleist of turns. Now it stays nice and flat and negotiates at speed far quicker. by reducing the body roll with the installation the car is able to transition much quicker. It drive more like the German Luxury Sport Sedan it was meant to be rather than grandma's grocery getter.( ok I have a tough grandma).
I paid 60.00 for both front and rear and 12.00 shipping.
I hope that this helps all of those not looking to break the bank and convert their car into something it was never meant to be...a S4!
Cheers.
Awol
I highly recommend this to anyone who has the same type vehicle, FWD non-sport. I was able to purchase both front and rear sway bar from a similar quattro with sport. After investigation and inspection I decided that the solid rear axle did not need any further supporting, that it would be very difficult to add the rear bar on this vehicle.
So I decided to give the front bar an inspection. The sport bar is some 10mm larger than the non sport.
With a 13mm and a 3/8 socket I removed the stock and replaced it with the sport bar. First thing I noticed is that the mounting bracket and bushing have to be replaced as they are made to accomidate a much smaller piece.
Non the less I have it a shot.
Well let me say I just returned from the test drive and I could not be happier! The car has a much better attitude when turning and there was very little loss turning quickness or understeer. The car would dip and lean like a Buick in the simpleist of turns. Now it stays nice and flat and negotiates at speed far quicker. by reducing the body roll with the installation the car is able to transition much quicker. It drive more like the German Luxury Sport Sedan it was meant to be rather than grandma's grocery getter.( ok I have a tough grandma).
I paid 60.00 for both front and rear and 12.00 shipping.
I hope that this helps all of those not looking to break the bank and convert their car into something it was never meant to be...a S4!
Cheers.
Awol
where were you able to find both sway bars for 60 bucks? if you aren't doing anything with that rear bar, i'll take it off your hands for you..since i'm such a nice guy.
Well I knew a guy who new a guy that new a Wally Martinez...LOL. No I shopped around for it...a lot! I am going to hang on to the rear for now in case something comes up...like a spin out or something.
OK. Here it goes. Listen I am 37 years old. I have seen alot of things go with other car makes that I have been envolved with building.
All of you crazy HP guys listen up! If you can't put the power to the ground then it is worthless....absolutely. Now I have done a frame up resto on a 72 Chevelle that we modded the 350 to be a daily driver *** kicker. I have driven Alfa's, Porsche's, and a Lambo that my Uncle owned 9 (who was a racer with Andretti in the 60's) pay attention: no matter what you do you are only as good (as fast) as you weakest link ( part).
Lets say you have a 60,000 mile car and you decide to chip it. Bad Idea! You have a car that has 60k on it and you have not refreshed the drivetrain or suspension. this translate to loss in HP and TQ which again is a big part of street driving. HP means nothing unless you are ***** out and over 100 mph...simple physics.
There are some old addages that translate from my big block days:
1: No replacement for displacement
2: you are only as good as the weakest part
3: acceleration is a factor of time and distance which is effected by mass and force!
You guys that have hooked your cars up with the chip only to see the front end jump up as you accelerate lready know how important suspension and mounts are to this factor.
I bought this car because of the constant torque curve at 150 lbs per foot. I knew it could be improved and would never be a world better but a great daily driver. You guys have got to start thinking about hooking up ( traction issues). Quattro helps a whole hell of a lot with this so thank go for that. But if you are serious about acceleration then start thinking about your mass.
A key factor in mass is unsprung weight. Translation: when you add stiffer springs the weight on acceleration increases because the unsprung weight is increase. When you add heavier/ bigger wheels or breaks the same thing happens. But also consider that a wheel that is the same weight but bigger as more inertial mass or unsprung weight...translation is effect on acceleration and braking ( both slower by .oo of seconds).
My next big mod will be the tipchip! Making the auto/ clutch engagement release faster reducing fritional mass.
Understand that the car is design to behave with certain characteristics. Meaning that with ever HP you increase the BHP you should reduce the mass of the vehicle by 1.5 to 2. Keeping the car within fact. specs for longevity. You young guys think your bullet proof so that longevity may not be a concern in you mind...but consider it for a moment...are you really saying that you want to decrease the life of the vehicle?
So take out you parts that you don't need (all that bing bling crap...especially those chrome *** 18's). replace the bushings in the car. Kick the fat chicks to the curb...and then chip!
All of you crazy HP guys listen up! If you can't put the power to the ground then it is worthless....absolutely. Now I have done a frame up resto on a 72 Chevelle that we modded the 350 to be a daily driver *** kicker. I have driven Alfa's, Porsche's, and a Lambo that my Uncle owned 9 (who was a racer with Andretti in the 60's) pay attention: no matter what you do you are only as good (as fast) as you weakest link ( part).
Lets say you have a 60,000 mile car and you decide to chip it. Bad Idea! You have a car that has 60k on it and you have not refreshed the drivetrain or suspension. this translate to loss in HP and TQ which again is a big part of street driving. HP means nothing unless you are ***** out and over 100 mph...simple physics.
There are some old addages that translate from my big block days:
1: No replacement for displacement
2: you are only as good as the weakest part
3: acceleration is a factor of time and distance which is effected by mass and force!
You guys that have hooked your cars up with the chip only to see the front end jump up as you accelerate lready know how important suspension and mounts are to this factor.
I bought this car because of the constant torque curve at 150 lbs per foot. I knew it could be improved and would never be a world better but a great daily driver. You guys have got to start thinking about hooking up ( traction issues). Quattro helps a whole hell of a lot with this so thank go for that. But if you are serious about acceleration then start thinking about your mass.
A key factor in mass is unsprung weight. Translation: when you add stiffer springs the weight on acceleration increases because the unsprung weight is increase. When you add heavier/ bigger wheels or breaks the same thing happens. But also consider that a wheel that is the same weight but bigger as more inertial mass or unsprung weight...translation is effect on acceleration and braking ( both slower by .oo of seconds).
My next big mod will be the tipchip! Making the auto/ clutch engagement release faster reducing fritional mass.
Understand that the car is design to behave with certain characteristics. Meaning that with ever HP you increase the BHP you should reduce the mass of the vehicle by 1.5 to 2. Keeping the car within fact. specs for longevity. You young guys think your bullet proof so that longevity may not be a concern in you mind...but consider it for a moment...are you really saying that you want to decrease the life of the vehicle?
So take out you parts that you don't need (all that bing bling crap...especially those chrome *** 18's). replace the bushings in the car. Kick the fat chicks to the curb...and then chip!
I agree with you about the suspension Its always my first mod... But I dont think theres anything wrong with an extra 40-50 HP...
The only modle that has those issue that bad is the one you have but with quattro and or sport audis the extra power is not going to overwelm the suspension or cause traction issues...
I have a FWD non-sport audi and before I swapped the suspension it was like driving a marshmellow aroud with stock power levels so I understand where your coming from But I drove friends chipped quattro non-sport and although the bodyroll was anoying it stuck to the road great even on allseason tires.
The only modle that has those issue that bad is the one you have but with quattro and or sport audis the extra power is not going to overwelm the suspension or cause traction issues...
I have a FWD non-sport audi and before I swapped the suspension it was like driving a marshmellow aroud with stock power levels so I understand where your coming from But I drove friends chipped quattro non-sport and although the bodyroll was anoying it stuck to the road great even on allseason tires.


