Just got home and ran a scan with my trusty VAG. Now my life becomes a nightmare. Here are the codes below:

VAG-COM Version: Release 311.2-N


Chassis Type: 8D - Audi A4 B5
Scan: 01,02,03,08,15,17,25,35,45,55,56

Address 01 -------------------------------------------------------
Controller: 8D0 907 557 P
Component: 1.8L R4/5VT MOTR AT D04
Coding: 06251
Shop #: WSC 06335
5 Faults Found:
17956 - Boost Pressure Regulation Valve (N75): Open Circuit
P1548 - 35-00 - -
17091 - Transmission Range Sensor (F125): Signal too Low
P0707 - 35-00 - -
16806 - Main Catalyst: Bank 1: Efficiency Below Threshold
P0422 - 35-00 - -
16487 - Mass Air Flow Sensor (G70): Signal too High
P0103 - 35-00 - -
17963 - Charge Pressure: Maximum Limit Exceeded
P1555 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
Readiness: 0000 0000

Address 02 -------------------------------------------------------
Controller: 8D0 927 156 BN
Component: AG5 01V 1.8l5VT USA 8508
Coding: 00000
Shop #: WSC 00000
1 Fault Found:
00526 - Brake Light Switch-F
27-00 - Implausible Signal

Address 03 -------------------------------------------------------
Controller: 8E0 614 111 A
Component: ABS/EDS 5.3 QUATTRO D00
Coding: 0273004284
Shop #: BB 24334
No fault code found.

Address 08 -------------------------------------------------------
Controller: 8L0 820 043 D
Component: A4 KLIMAVOLLAUTOMAT_D75
Coding: 04142
Shop #: WSC 06335
3 Faults Found:
00779 - Outside Air Temp Sensor (G17)
30-00 - Open or Short to B+
00603 - Footwell/defroster Flap Positioning Motor (V85)
41-10 - Blocked or No Voltage - Intermittent
01274 - Air Flow Flap Positioning Motor (V71)
41-10 - Blocked or No Voltage - Intermittent

Skipping Address 15-Airbags

Address 17 -------------------------------------------------------
Controller: 8D0 919 910 P
Component: B5-KOMBIINSTR. VDO D05
Coding: 02242
Shop #: WSC 19411
1 Fault Found:
01039 - Coolant Temperature Sensor (G2)
30-10 - Open or Short to B+ - Intermittent

Address 35 -------------------------------------------------------
Controller: 8L0 862 257 N
Component: CV-Pump D10
Coding: 16232
Shop #: WSC 06335
5 Faults Found:
01370 - Alarm triggered by Interior Monitoring
35-00 - -
00991 - Interior Lights
28-00 - Short to B+
00955 - Key 1
09-00 - Adaptation Limit Surpassed
00956 - Key 2
09-00 - Adaptation Limit Surpassed
00957 - Key 3
09-00 - Adaptation Limit Surpassed

Address 45 -------------------------------------------------------
Controller: 4B0 951 173
Component: Innenraumueberw. D03
Coding: 00101
Shop #: WSC 06335
3 Faults Found:
01380 - Alarm triggered by Anti-Theft Sensor: Rear Left
35-00 - -
01382 - Alarm triggered by Anti-Theft Sensor: Front Left
35-00 - -
01383 - Alarm triggered by Anti-Theft Sensor: Front Right
35-00 - -

Address 56 -------------------------------------------------------
Controller: 4B0 035 186 A
Component: Radio D02
Coding: 00007
Shop #: WSC 40815
1 Fault Found:
00854 - Radio Display Output in dash Panel insert
49-00 - No Communications

End -------------------------------------------------------

 

If this is a stupid question, then I apologize up front. I'm not a mechanic, but I do understand some things related to cars.

The code reader.... VAGGOM? (sp)

If I take my vehicle in to get it read at somewhere like Schuck's or Advanaced, they will not read it due to the dash needing to be pulled to get to it. Is this true?

If so, where (other than the dealership) can I go to get it read? Or should I invest in a reader myself?

Thanks!

 

the plug for the obd is next to your brake release, you don't have to pull you dash to get to it, most auto part stores will read your codes for free, just look by your brake release and you will see the plug.

 

My brake release? That is in the console between my seats. Are you talking about the hood release?

 

ya my bad the hood release.

 

Ok. I will try a different one than the one who said they couldn't get to it. I didn't think the dash needed to come out since there is so much talk about the reader and the codes. It appeared to me to be no more diffiucult than takig your temperature but you needed the tool first. Thanks for your help.

 

Huh, my vagcom port is between the seats (A6). Either way Cindie, you are looking for a computer plug port. it may have a cover that looks like the check engine light. My steering wheel on the underside tells me where it is.

Ok so your codes say that you drive your car really hard (like really hard) but only intermittently(SHIFT MAN SHIFT), your transmission needed repair (or may still but i am assuming that is an old code), your coolant temp sensor is out (see brrman), you have occasional electrical problems in the lights and your mechanic set off the alarm on himself. Oh and the battery died or was removed (which could also be your intermitent footwell defroster and brake light prob).

So I would replace the coolant temp sensor.

Did you do your fuel filter... you did not say, but cars that sit for a long time you should always do this.

 

Thanks Dan & Baja... I;m taking it in today. Will post the codes later. One thing I didn't mention on my situation is that it is an automatic. There is refernce in your posts to the shifting (manual) transmission, would this still be an issue with me? I admit I am a pretty aggressive driver. Also, I seem to be going through oil like a kid eating chocolate cake. I have addded nearly two qts in the past month. This seems odd since I am not having a visible leak on the floor. Any ideas there? Please don't tell me it's time for an overhaul...

 

Wow, 2 quarts in a month is bad. Are you sure there is no major oil leak. If it aint leaking it is burning. Yeah so if you burnt through two quarts of oil, you are going to need an overhaul. You gaskets and rings and crap all need replacing. You don't have oil in your coolant resevoir do you?

On the transmission, I am just saying that there is a reason that your car usually runs at 2-4000 RPM and it is not just fuel economy. If you hold it in a gear and run around at 5-6000 RPMs or don't shift til redline, it is bad for your car. Like burn oil, burn rings, burn valves, bad for the transmission too. At 5-6000 RPM your oil pump is not keeping up (pumps work most efficiently at a certain point).

It is harder to hold a gear with an Auto though.

I was hoping you were turbos, turbos go out and burn oil, but with the 2.8, it is internal.

 

Ok so I don't hold the RPM's that high. Very rarely use the tiptronic, so it is shifting on it's own. That said, I also had the "oil pressure" light come on for a few seconds about a month ago. When I checked the oil, it was barely registering on the stick. I had complete oil change (it was due at the time anyway), and then that is when I started to monitor the oil level. Oil change was a month ago, then a week later I had to put a qt in (maybe I didn't get enough in to begin with? - wishful thinking huh? I put like 5.5 qts) Then two weeks after THAT, I put in about 3/4 qt more. No visible leak, but the plugs look like there may be some carbon build up on them.