Air intakes discussion
I figured a thread on intakes would be good to discuss the pros and Consand the different kit on the market.
The is some info I found on the net to get it all going as I am of the opinion sealed units are best but I will have to concede that both offer something the other can't.
So this is a little something I found on the net to back both ideas.
[/align]A short ram intake[/align][/align][/align]The short ram air intake is a form of aftermarket air intake for automobiles with internal combustion engines.
It replaces the OEM air intake with a short metal pipe and air filter inside the engine bay. This can slightly boost performance levels in a vehicle by increasing air volume intake. A significant increase in intake air volume will only occur in an engine where the factory intake piping was restrictive.
A problem with short ram air intakes is that the air entering the intake is at a higher temperature due to the proximity of the engine, which can reduce performance. This may be partially offset by an increase in the volume of air entering the engine. To counter intake heat problems, many short ram intakes include some form of heat shield. Moving the intake inlet port further away from the engine block will also help to alleviate the problem and some users use a cold air intake where the inlet air is at or close to ambient temperature. Users with forced induction engines often opt for short ram intakes because compressors adjacent to the engine, especially turbochargers, heat the incoming air and negate much of the benefits of a cold air intake. Additional problems can result from using a short ram intake in cars utilizing a Mass airflow sensor. Turbulence in the intake airflow produced by the filter or piping, or a change in intake diameter at the point where the airflow is measured can produce inaccurate airflow readings. The error in airflow then translates to an error in the amount of added fuel. In the worst case, the air/fuel ratio can run lean, causing detonation and possibly engine failure. This problem can be solved by modifying/elongating the intake piping, replacing the airflow meter, or by replacing/remapping the engine control computer to provide the correct amount of fuel for the intake airflow at all engine speeds.
A harmless but noticeable result of using a short ram air intake is an increase in intake noise, which may manifest as a sucking sound, and the loss of any silencing properties that the factory intake had. In turbo cars which have a turbo pressure bypass valve, a short ram intake can produce a loud hissing sound when the throttle is lifted at high boost.
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This entry is from Wikipedia, the leading user-contributed encyclopedia. It may not have been reviewed by professional editors (see full disclaimer)
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The is some info I found on the net to get it all going as I am of the opinion sealed units are best but I will have to concede that both offer something the other can't.
So this is a little something I found on the net to back both ideas.
[/align]A short ram intake[/align][/align][/align]The short ram air intake is a form of aftermarket air intake for automobiles with internal combustion engines.It replaces the OEM air intake with a short metal pipe and air filter inside the engine bay. This can slightly boost performance levels in a vehicle by increasing air volume intake. A significant increase in intake air volume will only occur in an engine where the factory intake piping was restrictive.
A problem with short ram air intakes is that the air entering the intake is at a higher temperature due to the proximity of the engine, which can reduce performance. This may be partially offset by an increase in the volume of air entering the engine. To counter intake heat problems, many short ram intakes include some form of heat shield. Moving the intake inlet port further away from the engine block will also help to alleviate the problem and some users use a cold air intake where the inlet air is at or close to ambient temperature. Users with forced induction engines often opt for short ram intakes because compressors adjacent to the engine, especially turbochargers, heat the incoming air and negate much of the benefits of a cold air intake. Additional problems can result from using a short ram intake in cars utilizing a Mass airflow sensor. Turbulence in the intake airflow produced by the filter or piping, or a change in intake diameter at the point where the airflow is measured can produce inaccurate airflow readings. The error in airflow then translates to an error in the amount of added fuel. In the worst case, the air/fuel ratio can run lean, causing detonation and possibly engine failure. This problem can be solved by modifying/elongating the intake piping, replacing the airflow meter, or by replacing/remapping the engine control computer to provide the correct amount of fuel for the intake airflow at all engine speeds.
A harmless but noticeable result of using a short ram air intake is an increase in intake noise, which may manifest as a sucking sound, and the loss of any silencing properties that the factory intake had. In turbo cars which have a turbo pressure bypass valve, a short ram intake can produce a loud hissing sound when the throttle is lifted at high boost.
[/align]
This entry is from Wikipedia, the leading user-contributed encyclopedia. It may not have been reviewed by professional editors (see full disclaimer)
ORIGINAL: turbo kraut
there are a ton of these threads..... and a cone/carbino style filter will give you nothing more than noise and looks unless you are bt
there are a ton of these threads..... and a cone/carbino style filter will give you nothing more than noise and looks unless you are bt
What I like to see is layman’s terms with thing like CFM explained rather than just stated "whichever flows the greatest cfm will work the best" as this will mean little to most of the people on here.
whichever can flow the most air, will work the best for the 1.8T's. everyone should be able to comprehend that. if you can't, my words are wasted on you anyways...
for a 2.8 a true CAI would probly give you the best gains
this debate will never end without dyno sheets/vag logs
for a 2.8 a true CAI would probly give you the best gains
this debate will never end without dyno sheets/vag logs
I guess im the "other guy" 
This topic is already done.
FI only needs a intake to flow more than what is needed by the turbo and psi. A cone filter draws in air smoother than a air box with 90* turns. Temp doesnt matter. Covers overa conefiltersare a restriction since the filter takes in air from all sides, the cover prevents that. And since temp doesnt matter, heat sheilds are also not needed.
NA cars need to take in air from outside the engine bay because the differnce between underhood temps and ambient temps could mean 5-10hp. But with most modern cars, stock airboxes have minimized cai gains to little to no gains.

This topic is already done.
FI only needs a intake to flow more than what is needed by the turbo and psi. A cone filter draws in air smoother than a air box with 90* turns. Temp doesnt matter. Covers overa conefiltersare a restriction since the filter takes in air from all sides, the cover prevents that. And since temp doesnt matter, heat sheilds are also not needed.
NA cars need to take in air from outside the engine bay because the differnce between underhood temps and ambient temps could mean 5-10hp. But with most modern cars, stock airboxes have minimized cai gains to little to no gains.
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swift_A4
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Jul 4, 2006 11:18 PM



