That is a very helpful picture, acetrebo! That's a great reference. So just pull of the end of the hose connected to the trottle body and scrub inside of Tb as far as I can? What exactly am I scrubbing away?


Well just got back from work and I got everything I need. Plugs, gapper and filter. I had no idea that damn filter would be so expensive. It was 25 bucks! Whatever, I will just contiue to be poor for my car's sake! lol

Anyway the plugs I got were v-power ones, is that all the same? They were NGK BK6RE's with a copper core, so I figured they had to be the same.

Now that I got the gapper, ask me if I know how to use it... lol ofcourse I don't, I didn't even know what it was yesterday. HAHA. I kind of have an idea, you said the gap is the distance between the ground and the electrode. The the little hole on the gapper is used the pry the opening larger. How should I make the opening smaller though? SInce out of the box the plugs have a bigger gap than .03?

 

yea that pic ace posted was my wallpaper on my computer for about a year... you got the right plugs. i thought gapping was pretty self explanatory, but you stick the gapper inbetween the "prong" on the end of the plug and the electrode at the correct measurementand lightly tap it on a block of wood for example until it tightens to .030 They normaly come pregapped at .030-.040. Be carefull not to bang the plug while closing the gap and do it on something more forgiving that concrete like a block of wood or a hard back book. I assume you know how to take the coil packs out to take out the old plugs/put in the new... There are 2 hex bolts that hold in each coil pack so youll need hex keys or an allen key bit (actually im not sure for your engine, but on 2000 atw engine code thats how it is). Unplug the coil packs first from the wires. Do one at a time. For the air filter youll need to take a few things appart, but you should figure it out pretty easily. Gotta unsrew/disconnect the clamp/hose from the breather valve on top of the air box and the two top screws on the heat shield on the engine side. Youll also have to take off the turbo inlet hose from the airbox (just a screw style clamp).. Then there are for clips that hold the top part of the airbox to the bottom part and the filter is inbetween.. Just start taking things appart, its not as complicated as it looks, it can only go back together one way so you cant really mess it up... Have fun and dont forget to do like Ace said and clean the throtle body as that can kill your performance/mpg too.

 

Your an *******... LOL You know I am just playin' dude!

Yeah I already took the air box apart last night to get a look at the MAF. Your right, it wasn't to difficult. I busted the two clips that hold that bar on top of the lid of the airbox. lol But no big deal.

I'll see if I can't get both of these done today!

 

Well, if takes Helen Keller 30 mins to change plugs, it shouldnt take you more than an hour. hahahahah...

 

Your a real wise guy aren't ya? You know that is pretty rude, because I am blind, deaf, retarded and I only have one arm! But hey I still replaced the air filter in 10 minutes!

Hmmm... does my old air filter look dirty??




I can't believe it but just from changing that filter I can tell a difference in the throttle response!

I took the hose off the throttle body per your guys instructions. I looked in the hose and in the throttle body and felt around in both and it wasn't dirty hardly at all. Was there something I was overlooking? Did I need to open the throttle and shove around all the way in there?

I didn't get around to doing the spark plugs yet, I fell asleep this afternoon. But I hopefully will do them tonight I have to go somewhere for a bit but I might be able to complete them tonight, I'll have to see.


[IMG]local://upfiles/26174/2C5FC3769EED45A8ACA49157F36B745B.jpg[/IMG]

 

Buy tune up supplies from
www.ecstuning.com
you'll save $$

 

ya a dirty air filter will affect your throtle response for sure... I went to clean my throtle body one day suspecting that after 80k miles it would be gunky and to my surprise it was pretty damn clean, so its possible yours is that way too... Especially because you have less than 60k miles.

 

When replacing the spark plugs, tighten by hand without
the rachet, to avoid stripping the head. Use the extention
or a hose. Using the rachet turn 5/8 to 3/4 around. 22 Ft. Pounds
of torque.

 

So I don't use the rachet at all? Or just turn it by hand until I am sure that it is threading properly and I don't strip it, then tighten it down good? I guess I didn't quite follow your post.

 

^^^Yea like that.