This is a shame, I spent an hour trying to change my brakes. I am use to the Honda way, do I need an special tool for this? How do I make it work?

Thanks,

Luis III[:-]

 

Front

remove two 7 mm hex screws, pull snap clip over, caliper comes off. remove pads, open MC, depress piston back into caliper. Put new pads on. reassemble. pump brake pedal...go


rear, remove the caliper, I think it's 13mm wrench and 15mm socket. Remove rear pads. Use a special twisting caliper tool to depress the piston back into thew caliper. Put new pads on, pump, go.

Bleed if you have a low pedal or spongy feeling.


quick short and simple, I did mine yesterday..,..

Check AW for a brake tech article.

 

Fronts don't require a special tool. Rears require a caliper compressor that both compresses and twists the piston back into the caliper housing. Other than that, it's just a couple of bolts, like bhj said. The fronts have two 7mm Allen head "guide pins", and that clip. If you're changing the entire system (adding new calipers) then there's two big-*** (18mm?) hex bolts, and you should use a flare head wrench for the lines unless you're replacing them and don't care. Take the cap off the master cylinder (fluid reservoir close to the ECU on the driver's side) and for bleeding, put a hose on the bleeder screw of the caliper (a 1/4 inch tube works nicely) and dunk the end of the hose in a bottle of brake fluid, old or new doesn't matter, so you don't get any air in the system as you pump the pedal. DO NOT push the pedal all the way to the ground, and DO NOT let the fluid level in the reservoir get below the level of the hose that takes the brake fluid to the rest of the car. Just pump the pedal lightly (you'll probably want a partner to either watch the brake fluid coming out of the caliper or to pump the pedal for you) until new fluid comes through the bleeder hose. Then hook the brake line back up and repeat.

What exactly were you having trouble with? I tried to say everything I could think of.

 

TIP:

You CAN use a C-Clamp on the rears. I messed up one of the springs (it was popped out) so I had to take it off. I decided to compress the piston again but I didn't have the tool. The clamp works fine, just keep loosening and tightening and it will turn and compress the piston.

 

rear brakes on vw/audi suck to do with or without the tool

 

You can also use a needle-nose pliers to turn the piston.

 

yea they make them retarded. It could have been designed a little better, at least with a plus design instead of those 2 little grooves.

 

That's interesting. I always thought there was absolutely no alternative to the tool for the rear calipers. Sweet. I have to switch pads and rotors in the rear soon.

 

yep..I couldn't get a c-clamp to work on my POS prelude but I decided to take a chance on the a4.

OMg.. my handbrake works again, **** all of my brakes work