Ifollowed a write-up I was directed to by this website that is on Audiworld.com. It's not too bad of a write-up but he did not mention any torque specs for reinstalling everything. Can anyone give me a run down of the torque specs for everything, such as; water pump, tensioner pully bolts, oil pump bolt, etc... or is it not necessary to torque any of these, just make'em tight?

Things are going ok except for some issues I was hoping to reslove while I have this apart. I have a slight coolant leak from the flange on the back of the head, got the parts to fix that. But when I pulled the radiator out I think I've discovered another leak. Should I try to have the radiator repaired or buy a new one? Any suggestions of which one to buy?

 

Well, even though I didn't get any responses to my last two threads I figured I'd keep trying.

All went well with the T-Belt replacement, probably would have only took a few hours if I weren't fixing the coolant leaks I discovered. Question I have now is:

Where does your coolant temp gauge usually run? Be for I started my work mine was about a quater up, now it's right in the middle. Oil temp seems to be the same~ approximately 175*.

 

1/4 to 1/2 way, did you get all the air out of the system? does the fan cut in when it gets hot? is there good heat going into the cabin? if yes to all then its ok

 

For the torque specs you need a manual, such as a haynes or a bently manual.

Did you change the thermostat? You may want to pull off the temp sensor connector and clean it with contact cleaner. About half way seems within range. Maybe the new thermo is a different temp for when it opens and closes than the one you had in there.

Congrats on joining the t-belt club.

 

a bit late but work storing it for the future

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Thank you for all your help, but now I have another issue... Maybe I should start another thread?

I had several coolant leaks and I set about taking care of them while everything was apart. One of my leaks was on the back of the cylinder head where there is a flang that T's off to the top feed of the radiator and to the heater core. On the side of caution I ordered a new flange while I was ordering my other parts (just in case it was cracked since it is only cheap plastic). It only came with one o-ring so I had to reuse the other four. I ran just water in the system until I was done checking to make sure I had no leaks. All seemed well so I drained it and added my G12. Started the car up to work out the air again and what do I find.... the new flange is leaking, but in a different spot. I ran around checking everywhere for an O-ring that would fit but had very little luck. I took one from the VW dealer ( no Audi dealer within 70 miles from here) even though it was not the exact one I needed-they would have had to order the special size it requires. The leak is between the metal tube that feeds the top of the radiator and the plastic flang that I replaced. The only way I could get it to stop was to double up the o-ring between these two parts and tighen it down. No leak... so I start putting things back together more, but then discovered another problem. When I started to install the bolt the mounts the metal tube (for coolant) to the intake manifold it flexed the (cheap) plastic flang on the back of the motor and coolant started to spray out. So for now I left that bolt out... but this leads me to believe that somehow the boltsthat mount the metal tube to the plastic flang must be loose so that the pipe can flex a little. So now I'm confused, how do I keep it from leaking between the two parts while still allowing the metal pipe to be secured to the engine?

Can anyone check to see if it says anything special or odd about connecting these two parts together (metal tube and plastic flang)?

Thanks a bunch!

Look at that, I said all that without swearing and even got in a couple sarcastic jabs at the Audi engineers.

 

Temperature guage should be in the exact middle.