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Good buy or No Go?

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Old Dec 20, 2007 | 08:39 PM
  #1  
Trey25's Avatar
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Default Good buy or No Go?

01 1.8T 120k. Asking price $5900. Mint inside and out except for dent in decklid which requires a little force to open. When I started the car there was a noise like when you stick baseball card in your bicycle spoke. It went away a few minutes later. I suspect it has something to do with the secondary airpump or something. The paint looks so clean I can't help but think there was some paintwork done to this car, the damage to the decklid doesn't help either. It's from a dealer, has valid inspection sticker but no service records.

Few pics






 
Old Dec 20, 2007 | 08:41 PM
  #2  
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Default RE: Good buy or No Go?

Its seems good from here. Since its an 01 i would do it. You can always do a compression test to see where the motor stands.
 
Old Dec 20, 2007 | 08:50 PM
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Default RE: Good buy or No Go?

a bit lower on the price.
 
Old Dec 20, 2007 | 08:58 PM
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Default RE: Good buy or No Go?

$4900.... i would do a compression test first tho, and take the car to a good local mechanic and have them do one of there used car inspections (most places have them)
 
Old Dec 20, 2007 | 09:01 PM
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Default RE: Good buy or No Go?

Correction 146k 1 owner
 
Old Dec 20, 2007 | 09:09 PM
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Default RE: Good buy or No Go?

ORIGINAL: Trey25

Correction 146k 1 owner
" Me i was in the same boat as you, I have access to a dealers auction because the company i manage has a nj dealers liscence. IN the 2 years of dealing with used auction cars i've learned DON'T DO IT. Went private seller instead,viewed well over a dozen cars,got a deal on a car over from Audiworlds forum. Real deal Audi lover who also owned a pristine S4 also and had full maintence records 125 miles away in Pa. Skip foward a month into my ownership and checked out by 2 diffrent mechanic buddies of mine at their shops the car is perfect,both couldn't find a thing wrong with it. Prob best deal of my life. The money saved at auction isn't worth the hassle down the road. UNless the auction warrenties it i wouldn't do it. My company has had 2 vehicles catch fire,several trannies go and our latest needed a new engine all within a month of purchase.

Go car shoppin with an unemotional,cold hearted bastard of a friend who both knows cars as well as you do if not better and would tell his own mother she's a fat ***** if thats the truth. Look only at cars with FULL MAINTENCE RECORDS. Drive the car,purposly hit bumps,potholes straight line and in corners. Floor the car in each gear,obviously at lower revs for higher gears and see if pulls smoothly. Let go of wheel,car should track straight,same under braking no pull or violent shaking.CLutch should be catchin quick and smooth and require no gas to get movin quickly. Idle should be steady and not bouncy both hot+cold. Have heartless unemotional buddy drive car and do the same. Drop off the friend on the side of the road and drive past him under acceleration,hitting potholes,cruisng and braking, then switch. There should be no abnormal noise. If it made it this far take the car to a local mechanic you preselected through AAA and have them inspect the car as you will be amazed at what can be seen on a lift with a trained eye you would miss.
Stick should last longer then tip in terms of long term reliability and is pretty hard 2 blow a manual tranny unless your tryin. That and i don't care what the tip guys say 0-60 in 10+ seconds is a dog in my book. Combine tip with a 1.8 engine and its just doesn't feel like the same car. Manual FTW I'd go with 2000 and up just for the piece of mind with the timing belt tensioner update. Personally i found the 2001 1.8 the best value in terms of 20 more hp and 16lbs more torque then 1997-2000 1.8s and much cheaper then the newer body style 2002,truely an excellent value. Gets in NYC city drivin 23-24 city,29-35 highway mpg chipped with quattro. The 2.8V-6 gets lie 17city and 24-27 highway mpg and is slower then a chipped 1.8 and the 1.8 chipped has more torque especially noticable at lower RPMS. Miles i don't think matter terriblly as long as car was meticulously maintained by a private seller and a mechanic gives the thumbs up after a compression check. Personally i wouldn't buy over 120k miles just because the longer someone owned it b4 you the more chances they had to skip maintence,abuse it or neglect it. Yes, a car can go south real fast if abused but hopefully if the owner has full maintence he hasn't been spankin it terribly and 120k miles will leave you with a cushion if he was only forgettin minor things. Thats just my opnion.If you must buy from auction with no records available the lower the better as its less chance for abuse and neglected maintence."


Reprint of a previous post of mine,has never failed me in the entire time i've owned vehicles,never broken down,left stranded or had 2 do more then 300 in repairs. I say run 146k miles to fubar the car, no records your not buyin a damn civic preventive maintence is important. By the way count on the Turbo as bein toast either way. Carfax is useless which is another reason 2 run
 
Old Dec 20, 2007 | 09:22 PM
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Default RE: Good buy or No Go?

looks like a good deal.
 
Old Dec 20, 2007 | 09:34 PM
  #8  
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Default RE: Good buy or No Go?

Yea but 146, my car has 12k less than that.

I'm starting to think I should forget about getting another car for now. I already lucked out with a car that was in pretty good condition. Don't want to lose a good thing and end up with some lemon.
 
Old Dec 20, 2007 | 09:44 PM
  #9  
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Default RE: Good buy or No Go?

looks like my car with different wheels. I likeit.
 
Old Dec 21, 2007 | 11:18 AM
  #10  
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Default RE: Good buy or No Go?

I would say no go. The sound you described upon start-up sounded like mine did about 10k after I bought it. Ended up being the cam crank tensioner, wasn't very cheap to fix.The part itself was ~$700.Mine is also '01 1.8t.
 



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