How do chips work?
Thread Starter
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1st Gear
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 18
How do chips work?
Hi,
No this is not the classic which chip should i get newb question (feeling the flames)
This is STILL a newb question so flame me all ya want, I DID search the forums and found only a gazillion "which-chip-should-i-get-and-what-is-a-DV" answers to my search.
This all stems from my limited knowledge of mechanics and engines in general but i'm trying to learn so if you feel like shedding some light...
So from what i understand the various chipping modes optimise fuel/air ratios, ignition timing and especially they inject fuel at higher pressure to the cylinder? My (maybe dumb) question is: If this is so easy why do these cars not come out with optimised ECU's from the Audi factory, i mean the guys at Audi have got to be AT LEAST as smart as the APR/GIAC etc peeps.
Fuel economy? Engine life? Grandma whould **** her pants? why?
And then my other question is: so if i want more power i get a "bigger" turbo kit, does that simply inject the fuel at even higher pressures to the cylinders? if so what is the limit these can take? ( chipped is 15PSI right? vs factory 6-7PSI?)
and then what is all the nomenclature stand for Ko3 ? Ko4? gt2871r? stage 1? stage 2 -3 ?
Guess is should just pick up a mechanics book and start self-educating, I recently got APRed and just really wanna understand it all...
Thanks
/extinguisher in hand...
No this is not the classic which chip should i get newb question (feeling the flames)
This is STILL a newb question so flame me all ya want, I DID search the forums and found only a gazillion "which-chip-should-i-get-and-what-is-a-DV" answers to my search.
This all stems from my limited knowledge of mechanics and engines in general but i'm trying to learn so if you feel like shedding some light...
So from what i understand the various chipping modes optimise fuel/air ratios, ignition timing and especially they inject fuel at higher pressure to the cylinder? My (maybe dumb) question is: If this is so easy why do these cars not come out with optimised ECU's from the Audi factory, i mean the guys at Audi have got to be AT LEAST as smart as the APR/GIAC etc peeps.
Fuel economy? Engine life? Grandma whould **** her pants? why?
And then my other question is: so if i want more power i get a "bigger" turbo kit, does that simply inject the fuel at even higher pressures to the cylinders? if so what is the limit these can take? ( chipped is 15PSI right? vs factory 6-7PSI?)
and then what is all the nomenclature stand for Ko3 ? Ko4? gt2871r? stage 1? stage 2 -3 ?
Guess is should just pick up a mechanics book and start self-educating, I recently got APRed and just really wanna understand it all...
Thanks
/extinguisher in hand...
Zombie Defense Force
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 7,782
From: Dallas
RE: How do chips work?
Cars do not come tuned from the factor like an apr or giac chip will do because it will hinder the reliability of the car. the car company would rather sell a car that can last longer then make it have 20 or 30 more hp. Yes chips will change the a/f, timing, and boost maps.
Also cars will get better mpg if they are running on lower boost, the engine will last longer with fewer probles, and they dont want to have to buy grandma new undies ever time she gets on it
. A larger turbo (big turbo)will push more air into the engine, your tune (chip) will recongize the more air (psi) and put more fuel (larger injectors are sometimes needed) into the engine. the more air/fuel you have in your engine the more power you have as long as its a good tune (right chip).
K03=Stock turbo on A4
K04=Most common swaped turbo for the A4
GT28r=Next Step above K04
GT2871r=Step above 28
And i got this of Audiworld or something like that a while ago
And thats about it
Also cars will get better mpg if they are running on lower boost, the engine will last longer with fewer probles, and they dont want to have to buy grandma new undies ever time she gets on it
. A larger turbo (big turbo)will push more air into the engine, your tune (chip) will recongize the more air (psi) and put more fuel (larger injectors are sometimes needed) into the engine. the more air/fuel you have in your engine the more power you have as long as its a good tune (right chip). K03=Stock turbo on A4
K04=Most common swaped turbo for the A4
GT28r=Next Step above K04
GT2871r=Step above 28
And i got this of Audiworld or something like that a while ago
Stage 1 = chip
Stage 2 = chip + catback
Stage 2+ = chip + turboback
Stage 3 = Stage 2+ and bigger turbos
Stage 3+ = Created after a few people decided that the first three stages were too easy to understand. This can mean pretty much anything you want. We could make more stages, but we need to be able to flame n00bs for something so it's best for us to keep it confusing.
Stage 2 = chip + catback
Stage 2+ = chip + turboback
Stage 3 = Stage 2+ and bigger turbos
Stage 3+ = Created after a few people decided that the first three stages were too easy to understand. This can mean pretty much anything you want. We could make more stages, but we need to be able to flame n00bs for something so it's best for us to keep it confusing.
Zombie Defense Force
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 7,782
From: Dallas
RE: How do chips work?
Stage 1 = chip
Stage 2 = chip + catback
Stage 2+ = chip + turboback
Stage 3 = Stage 2+ and bigger turbos
Stage 3+ = Created after a few people decided that the first three stages were too easy to understand. This can mean pretty much anything you want. We could make more stages, but we need to be able to flame n00bs for something so it's best for us to keep it confusing.
M and T box are interchangeable. A box is fastest. 2nd gear synchros suck. TIPs suck. TIP chips make TIPs suck only slightly less, but they will eventually suck much more when they grenade. Buy a Level 10 tranny.
The best mod is driving school, although that's not really a "mod," per se. Somebody was witty and called it a mod, now everybody's riding that train. It's very "enthusiast," like a password or secret handshake.
The B6 S4 guys are like the retarded mutant brother you keep locked in the basement, but in this case the basement is the B6 S4 forum. You can lurk their forum and watch as they ask stupid questions and beat each other with sticks, but don't post anything. If they come here, sprinkle them with Holy Water.
B5 S4 has a V6. B6 S4 has a V8.
B5 > B6. 'Nuff said.
Dentist drill means dying turbos. Look, if you have to ask if you have the dentist drill, YOU DON'T HAVE IT! It sounds like 1000 screaming babies in your engine baby. Siren noise also means dying turbos. Does chipping make them, making them work at 200% of their designed capacity, make them die faster? Of course not.
We are not clairevoyant, we can't tell you when your turbos are going to blow. It's like getting head from your wife: you think about it all the damn time, but it never seems to happen. When they finally blow, let us all know by making a no-text post with the Turbolady pic...just like everybody else does. Everybody will tell you to get K04s, K04/16s, and K16/24s.
According to UberVier, the difference between K03s and K04s is 1. That's about it. It's like dungeons and dragons. A K04 is a K03 +1, but we just shorten it to K04.
Intercoolers? Get a DUH FMIC. No, DUH is the shop that makes it. Yeah, it's they're real name. No, I don't know wtf they were thinking. Just order one. It'll arrive just before the second coming of Christ.
You don't need a turbo timer, just install the thermoswitch mod from ECS. The thermoswitch is under the coolant expansion tank, but make sure you release the pressure first. You installed it? Cool, but now your battery's dead. Buy a new one for about the price of that turbo timer you wanted.
The engine can handle nitrous. Get a boost gauge, but for god's sake don't install it yourself unless you're wearing a full suit of riot gear.
The original stock TBB tore alot. They revised it. The revised TBB tears just as much. High five, Audi. Rushing air sound is a boost leak. Spray soapy water on stuff to find it. Blowoff sound is dead diverter valves. No, you can't use blowoff valves. Get 710Ns. No, Forged DVs aren't worth the money.
F-hose is not another word for your *****.
TAP chip is so fast it doesn't even need boost. MTM spikes highest. Everybody is sketched out by REVO. If APR is weaksauce why is my 4000mile pair of K03s making the siren again?
FATS means For Advancement of The S, and a FATS time is a 3rd gear pull from ~4200 to ~6000rpm (60-90). If you measured your FATS time with a stopwatch, *everybody* will laugh at you.
Don't cut your springs. Don't put a wing on your car. Don't buy that LLtek bodykit. You bought it? Burn your car.
Your stock S4 Avus rims are worth approximately tree fiddy.
Shortshifters? Some say the Tanoga is notchy, other say it's not. A handful really like the B&M, but some people say it's too notchy. The UUC is popular, though a few people complained of its notchiness and are happy with a Tanoga, which isn't notchy at all. Many B&M owners go to a Toyguy because it's notchier than their B&M, which they found too smooth. The TIP guys watch all this arguing and laugh, which is about all they can do since their trannies just blew up.
Borla makes the best sounding exhaust. Milltek is overpriced, but "classiest," whatever the hell that means. Twin2 sucks. NONE of these exhausts fit right...except Borla. Don't buy downpipes, just make piggies. Not worth the extra cash. Somebody buy that ridiculous Neuspeed race exhaust, I need a laugh. When it comes to exhaust sound, beauty is in the eye of the beholder.
Speaking of eyes, cancel the eyelid order. Eyelids are rice. Watch out for the AW ricer lynch mobs. They eat babies.
If you live in NY/NJ/CT, you have two choices. 1) Sleep in your car, shotgun in hand. 2) Just leave the doors open with the keys in the ignition. Your car WILL be stolen. Half the forum will be very sympathetic when it happens, the other half will flame you for not hiring a team of Navy SEALs to protect your car while you sleep.
Yes, black is fastest.
It's Nogaro. Not noraga, nagoro, nagaro, norogo, or nogara.
Your paint is *what* color? Santrino? God help us.
Sure, you can order K04s with any tuner's "Buy it now and we'll never fvcking send it to you, EVER" system. It's going to be so cool when you don't get them. Yes, Garrett kits are in the works. MAHA dynos > other dynos, but don't say so or the forum becomes about as peaceful as the LA riots.
11.5 is the fastest 1/4 et for a *relatively* off-the-shelf kit. It was stripped. Best launch at around 3500rpm on the upswing towards 4k, but you'll probably destroy your motor mounts so buy new ones from APR. Some people say you can install them with the bumper on. They're either liars or contortionists. I tried it with the bumper on and my elbow snapped like a twig.
I don't want to dump at 6000rpm, so you try it and report back to me. If you're gonna try that 6000rpm clutch dump, better do it with a SPEC clutch...they're bulletproof. Once your SPEC clutch obliterates itself, argue with SPEC for a replacement. They won't send you one, so just get a beefed up RS4 clutch from ECS.
RS4 clutch = S4 disk + RS4 pressure plate.
DO NOT try to port your heads with dry sand, or while the heads are still attached...and especially not when the engine is running. If you do, the only way to fix it is to rig your DVs like blowoff valves to get all the sand out.
The seats rattle. Yes, so does the sunroof. Your washer fluid drained? Ha. No, AOA doesn't care about any of this. What's AOA? If Audiworld is the 1960's, AOA is 'the man.' Don't try to fight the man, because, just like the hippies, you'll lose.
Some dealers are mod-friendly, some aren't. Yours probably isn't, but try anyway so we can all find great pleasure in reading about your misery.
What they didn't tell you when you bought this car was that you were also buying a life so brimming with anxiety and paranoia that it makes Osama Bin Laden's life seem like a Corona commercial.
Stage 2 = chip + catback
Stage 2+ = chip + turboback
Stage 3 = Stage 2+ and bigger turbos
Stage 3+ = Created after a few people decided that the first three stages were too easy to understand. This can mean pretty much anything you want. We could make more stages, but we need to be able to flame n00bs for something so it's best for us to keep it confusing.
M and T box are interchangeable. A box is fastest. 2nd gear synchros suck. TIPs suck. TIP chips make TIPs suck only slightly less, but they will eventually suck much more when they grenade. Buy a Level 10 tranny.
The best mod is driving school, although that's not really a "mod," per se. Somebody was witty and called it a mod, now everybody's riding that train. It's very "enthusiast," like a password or secret handshake.
The B6 S4 guys are like the retarded mutant brother you keep locked in the basement, but in this case the basement is the B6 S4 forum. You can lurk their forum and watch as they ask stupid questions and beat each other with sticks, but don't post anything. If they come here, sprinkle them with Holy Water.
B5 S4 has a V6. B6 S4 has a V8.
B5 > B6. 'Nuff said.
Dentist drill means dying turbos. Look, if you have to ask if you have the dentist drill, YOU DON'T HAVE IT! It sounds like 1000 screaming babies in your engine baby. Siren noise also means dying turbos. Does chipping make them, making them work at 200% of their designed capacity, make them die faster? Of course not.
We are not clairevoyant, we can't tell you when your turbos are going to blow. It's like getting head from your wife: you think about it all the damn time, but it never seems to happen. When they finally blow, let us all know by making a no-text post with the Turbolady pic...just like everybody else does. Everybody will tell you to get K04s, K04/16s, and K16/24s.
According to UberVier, the difference between K03s and K04s is 1. That's about it. It's like dungeons and dragons. A K04 is a K03 +1, but we just shorten it to K04.
Intercoolers? Get a DUH FMIC. No, DUH is the shop that makes it. Yeah, it's they're real name. No, I don't know wtf they were thinking. Just order one. It'll arrive just before the second coming of Christ.
You don't need a turbo timer, just install the thermoswitch mod from ECS. The thermoswitch is under the coolant expansion tank, but make sure you release the pressure first. You installed it? Cool, but now your battery's dead. Buy a new one for about the price of that turbo timer you wanted.
The engine can handle nitrous. Get a boost gauge, but for god's sake don't install it yourself unless you're wearing a full suit of riot gear.
The original stock TBB tore alot. They revised it. The revised TBB tears just as much. High five, Audi. Rushing air sound is a boost leak. Spray soapy water on stuff to find it. Blowoff sound is dead diverter valves. No, you can't use blowoff valves. Get 710Ns. No, Forged DVs aren't worth the money.
F-hose is not another word for your *****.
TAP chip is so fast it doesn't even need boost. MTM spikes highest. Everybody is sketched out by REVO. If APR is weaksauce why is my 4000mile pair of K03s making the siren again?
FATS means For Advancement of The S, and a FATS time is a 3rd gear pull from ~4200 to ~6000rpm (60-90). If you measured your FATS time with a stopwatch, *everybody* will laugh at you.
Don't cut your springs. Don't put a wing on your car. Don't buy that LLtek bodykit. You bought it? Burn your car.
Your stock S4 Avus rims are worth approximately tree fiddy.
Shortshifters? Some say the Tanoga is notchy, other say it's not. A handful really like the B&M, but some people say it's too notchy. The UUC is popular, though a few people complained of its notchiness and are happy with a Tanoga, which isn't notchy at all. Many B&M owners go to a Toyguy because it's notchier than their B&M, which they found too smooth. The TIP guys watch all this arguing and laugh, which is about all they can do since their trannies just blew up.
Borla makes the best sounding exhaust. Milltek is overpriced, but "classiest," whatever the hell that means. Twin2 sucks. NONE of these exhausts fit right...except Borla. Don't buy downpipes, just make piggies. Not worth the extra cash. Somebody buy that ridiculous Neuspeed race exhaust, I need a laugh. When it comes to exhaust sound, beauty is in the eye of the beholder.
Speaking of eyes, cancel the eyelid order. Eyelids are rice. Watch out for the AW ricer lynch mobs. They eat babies.
If you live in NY/NJ/CT, you have two choices. 1) Sleep in your car, shotgun in hand. 2) Just leave the doors open with the keys in the ignition. Your car WILL be stolen. Half the forum will be very sympathetic when it happens, the other half will flame you for not hiring a team of Navy SEALs to protect your car while you sleep.
Yes, black is fastest.
It's Nogaro. Not noraga, nagoro, nagaro, norogo, or nogara.
Your paint is *what* color? Santrino? God help us.
Sure, you can order K04s with any tuner's "Buy it now and we'll never fvcking send it to you, EVER" system. It's going to be so cool when you don't get them. Yes, Garrett kits are in the works. MAHA dynos > other dynos, but don't say so or the forum becomes about as peaceful as the LA riots.
11.5 is the fastest 1/4 et for a *relatively* off-the-shelf kit. It was stripped. Best launch at around 3500rpm on the upswing towards 4k, but you'll probably destroy your motor mounts so buy new ones from APR. Some people say you can install them with the bumper on. They're either liars or contortionists. I tried it with the bumper on and my elbow snapped like a twig.
I don't want to dump at 6000rpm, so you try it and report back to me. If you're gonna try that 6000rpm clutch dump, better do it with a SPEC clutch...they're bulletproof. Once your SPEC clutch obliterates itself, argue with SPEC for a replacement. They won't send you one, so just get a beefed up RS4 clutch from ECS.
RS4 clutch = S4 disk + RS4 pressure plate.
DO NOT try to port your heads with dry sand, or while the heads are still attached...and especially not when the engine is running. If you do, the only way to fix it is to rig your DVs like blowoff valves to get all the sand out.
The seats rattle. Yes, so does the sunroof. Your washer fluid drained? Ha. No, AOA doesn't care about any of this. What's AOA? If Audiworld is the 1960's, AOA is 'the man.' Don't try to fight the man, because, just like the hippies, you'll lose.
Some dealers are mod-friendly, some aren't. Yours probably isn't, but try anyway so we can all find great pleasure in reading about your misery.
What they didn't tell you when you bought this car was that you were also buying a life so brimming with anxiety and paranoia that it makes Osama Bin Laden's life seem like a Corona commercial.
